Question for owners of older Miller welders

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My syncrowave has threaded studs for the leads instead of DINSE connectors. What's the best way to set these up if I want to use the welder for both stick and TIG? Do people commonly unscrew these to swap the leads over, or is it acceptable/safe to leave the stick lead and the TIG torch both connected at the same time? or is there an easy way to change these over to DINSE somehow? Just looking for ideas. if you can share a pic it would be appreciated.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Could always go with Tweco 1AF connectors and Tweco 1MPC male ends on your leads. Or use a short lead with a crimped ring terminal on your stud and a 1MPC connector on the other end. Last edited by Pipeliner; 12-27-2014 at 05:03 PM.
Reply:I leave my 250 at work hooked up to both stick/Tig, then all you gotta do if you need to switch processes is flick the remote/panel switchMiller Spoolmate 200 w/t S-52 WirefeederMM 211'09 Miller Trailblazer 302
Reply:Ya that the same way we do it.
Reply:I leave my 250 at work hooked up to both stick/Tig, then all you gotta do if you need to switch processes is flick the remote/panel switch
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961So if you do this, do you ever run into problem with the high freq "leaking" out of the stick stinger? Wasn't sure if that would be an issue.
Reply:I wonder what kind of effect that would have on the rod though, ill have to give it a shot.
Reply:Originally Posted by PipelinerCould always go with Tweco 1AF connectors and Tweco 1MPC male ends on your leads. Or use a short lead with a crimped ring terminal on your stud and a 1MPC connector on the other end.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961The Miller manual for my Syncrowave indicates that SMAW with high frequency could be LIFE THREATENING. Just an FYI before you try it. I was kind of thinking the other way around...if I am tig welding aluminum and have the HF set to continuous, is there a risk of arcing from the unused SMAW stinger??
Reply:If both the stick welding lead and tig torch are on the same stud, yes the welding lead will be "hot" when you are tig welding. I have never seen any problems from doing that though, its how my machine was setup for a long time.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugIf both the stick welding lead and tig torch are on the same stud, yes the welding lead will be "hot" when you are tig welding. I have never seen any problems from doing that though, its how my machine was setup for a long time.
Reply:Steve, are jump leads a make your own kind of deal or does anyone sell them?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:cool. thanksMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:You can find the lug crimpers everywhere for < $20 that will get the job done. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...X26HE4DDRR4F9XOr make one like Duane!!http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=crimper
Reply:Does it matter if the are crimped or can I solder them?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Those crimpers like the amazon one work awesome . There is a slot that holds the pin out of the way to make lining up the lugs and cable easier.
Reply:I had an old A O Smith machine that gave a choice of HF start only or continuous. Made restarting 7018 a dream. I had the Tweco twist locks on it and the tig lug on the same stud. I should have never sold it.  It was the size of a washing machine but burnt 7018 like great.  Never did do worth a darn on AL tig but that could have been me. Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I forgot about Duane's crimper.Gonna have to make me one. I e been using a V block and blunted chisel for a long time.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961Does it matter if the are crimped or can I solder them?