Mill Vs. Lathe?

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Hello, wondering if anyone who owns either a mill or a lathe or both that could give me some insight as to which would be the better purchase first? I know that a lathe would be good for spacers, bushings etc. but which of the 2 machines would have more capabilities for the average hobby fabricator? Hope my question is not too vague. Millermatic 210
Reply:So much depends on what you want to do....Generally, a lathe is a more useful tool, as you can turn round parts, inside and out, as well as do some milling jobs with the proper setup. It is NOT going to be able to do complex milling jobs, and even simple ones can take some ingenuity, but a lathe will do it.A mill is pretty much unusable for 'lathe jobs', such as turning, concentric boring, etc. It is the ideal tool for shaping things. If you need a square block, a radiused edge, a groove or slot, etc, the mill is usually the easiest tool to work with.I only own a lathe of my own. It has done a lot of different jobs for my (including boring the hubs and putting the keyways in on its own change gears), but I have mills available for jobs that really need one, and I honestly don't do a lot outside of things for work.
Reply:As was already stated, it depends on what you mostly will be doing. I find the mill is used alot more, but do not have a lathe onsight yet. I do have a few availiable for use though. Both are invaluableTim Beeker.
Reply:I own both, but am not a hardcore machinist by any means - most the time they sit idle.That being said, I'd vote on the lathe by a large margin. It is more versatile than you imagine... remember that the tool can move perpendicular to rotating work as well as parallel to it - so you can do things you wouldn't think of at first. For example, you could take a cut-off piece from a rod and using facing operations, turn it into a cube. Not that you'd *want* to, but it illustrates that a lathe is useable for more than just 'turning stuff'.And if you get one with change gears or a gearbox, you can cut threads, which is downright nifty.To my mind the mill is also more challenging when it comes to set-up and work-holding.That's my 2 cents,John
Reply:You might look at one of those combo machines.  Size is sometimes limited, but they are economical.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:I also own both and the lathe is definitely more versatile...  it is considered to be the only machine that can build itself.  However, I use my lathe and mill about equally due to the fact that I have them for specific product purposes, besides "general" fabrication.  My lathe can cut threads, standard only unfortunately, as it is an older machine..  but is is still extremely handy.  If you aren't into hard core milling or turning, then you may consider a "Smithy" or similar 3-in-1 bench top machine that can do it all.  It will also save on space if you don't have much room to work with.  The standard Smithy found here http://www.smithy.com/product_home.p...1&scid=8&pid=3 can be had for $3000, but much less for a nice used machine.  It will do milling, turning and drilling.Take care,DanDanwww.hillisfabrication.com
Reply:I have a 3 in 1 machine and find myself using the lathe far more than the mill. Again, it depends what you want to do.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:When you consider buying a machine, you must also consider having to buy the tooling it will need or you might want. For a lathe, tooling starts with a chuck and/or faceplate, live and dead centers, perhaps a collet closer, and goes up to quick change tool holders, tool bits with replaceable carbide inserts, fancy automatically opening tapping heads, toolpost grinders,  etc.Milling equipment includes collets, drill chucks, standard end mills of various sizes, fly cutters, special cutters for rounding or dovetail cutting, slitting saw holders and blades, a rotary indexing table,  a 'spindex', perhaps motorized table and/or knee feed, a digital readout for the table; a good milling vise or two, standard clamping equipment, maybe an angle head and rear support for use with a vertical milling machine.......Then, of course, you either need a good book or three, an old machinist for advice, or time and money to make mistakes of your own.Almost forgot; you still need a small warehouse to keep all your stock, scrap metal, started but unfinished projects, and tooling in. At least I do--and don't have.
Reply:No one except you can say which machine to get first.  It's like a carpenter asking whether to get a skill saw or a pneumatic nailer first.Both machines are extremely useful in the shop, but for different types of tasks.  The decision depends entirely upon what types of tasks you tend to confront.  For some projects I spend lots of time on the lathe and don't touch the mill for weeks.  On others it is the reverse.I had a major project last year developing and building a self-propelled carriage to move laser-based optical measuring equipment along railroad track.  95% mill work with occasional lathe tasks.  Both were indispensible to the overall project.I have several biases to pass along.  One is that I think you can get much more capability for the money by judiciously buying used equipment, rather than new.  Doesn't help the economy as much, I suppose, but most new machines for amateurs are imports anyway.  Used machines often come with some or lots of tooling that can eat up a lot of money if bought separately.  Some such tooling that you wouldn't go out and purchase for a single or occasional task can also offer unusual capabilities (and some you will never use).My "habit" began at age 13 when I borrowed $100 from my dad to buy a 9" Logan lathe (with tooling) from my neighbor who was moving to a retirement community.  ALL of my machine tools (3 lathes, 4 milling machines, 3 drill presses, 2 band sanders, 3 bandsaws, several bench grinders plus a few welders) have been bought used from individuals, at public and government auctions, or from the University of California surplus sales.  I have been very satisfied with all of them.  Of course you have to inspect closely.  It helps to bring a friend who is detached from the "deal" to look a machine over with you.Another bias is that used 3-phase machines can be a better bargain because many amateurs don't want the hassle of changing motors or providing 3-phase power.  Investment in a single phase converter of adequate capacity allows you to supply a variety of machines.  I prefer variable frequency 3-phase inverters to rotary or static phase converters, but all can do the job.Third, I have a bias against all-in-one machines (although I have never owned one) unless you have very limited shop space.  I think it would be a PITA to have to clear out all your setup for some job to switch over to a different brief task, then switch back.  Additionally, my impression is that such machines are generally limited in capacity.  Many of my successive purchases of a machine type have been to obtain greater capacity.  Your pictures imply that you will be doing automotive and motorcycle work.  You don't want to find that your first major project is too big for your machine.  Get the biggest you can.awrightLast edited by awright; 12-14-2008 at 03:37 PM.
Reply:I'm not a machinist by any stretch of the imagination.  I've had a small import mill, and and old Atlas 6" lathe for about a year.  During that time, I've only use them occasionally, but I've certainly used the mill more.I certainly would not recommend the Atlas 6" lathe.  Small, and you have to change remove and change gears to do threading, etc.  I'd much rather have a small import lathe with a quick-change tool rest and quick-change threading gears. Do you have a drill press?  If so, you can do some very crude milling on your drill press with a cross slide vise:  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32997America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:What do you fellas think of this? " Morse Taper Mini LathePrice: $250.00 (CAD)Ideal for small jobs and hobby work. 30" lathe bed, 10" opening, 3 jaw chuck, 3/4 HP reversable motor. 3 speed belt driven (new belt). Asst. cutting tools.Millermatic 210
Reply:Is the leadscrew contained within the carriage?"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammIs the leadscrew contained within the carriage?
Reply:It looks as if the advance for the carriage is self contained.  No external leadscrew attached and driven by the gear box.  I don't believe you could do any threading.If it fills your needs, it might be good, but I think you might outgrow it pretty fast.Try to find an old Clausing.  Maybe 600-800 with some tooling."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:For a really good tutorial, and general overview of lathes go to www.americanmachinetool.com and click on the lathes, then look down in the text for a link to the instructions on how to use a lathe.Lots of good stuff thereWRONG LINK..... SEE POST 17Last edited by farmersamm; 12-15-2008 at 06:58 PM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I believe there's a good set of pics and nomenclature for lathes on the same "lathe" page."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:CRAP!!!!!  It's www.americanmachinetools.comForgot the "s".  I don't do good with links"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I agree with Samm; the carriage is locked in place, the handwheel on the right feeds the motion parallel to the work axis and the front crank makes transverse cuts. There is no compound feed available. I'd sooner buy a small, old Atlas or whatever, even with change gears, before I'd settle for one without the basic features which this one lacks. The only exception would be if you had a production shop and needed a cheap, one-purpose machine to just face similar parts.
Reply:Yup, I gotta agree with the rest, limited capabilities and you will grow out of it real quick. Save your $$$ towards something bigger and better.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Wow! Thanks for all the great help and insight. Looks like I should do a little homework before making a decision. Millermatic 210
Reply:I wouldn't give $250 for it.  I'd rather pay $150 more and get one of the little lathes from Harbor Freight.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93799You can periodically find them on sale, or get a 15% off coupon and get it for about $400.America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:a friend mentioned a milling machine to me( hi farmersamm!) and i been lookin--grizzly makes combination mill/lathes..hmmmmmmmm
Reply:Keep in mind also that work set-up (i.e. how the heck am I gonna clamp this thing?) is a major part of the effort when using a mill. I've never used a combo machine, but I can imagine that going back-and-forth between mill and lathe could be a bit of a pain if you have to tear-down whatever mill work you have in progress.Good luck in your search,John
Reply:You are right John (I have a mill/lathe combo) the setup/tear down time is annoying. I don't regret buying mine because it opened doors and gave me a taste of machining. But, when replacement time comes I will be looking for seperate machines.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:good question, and a bunch of good answers.i love a lathe because i can make cool stuff for my bike on one, as well as some tools.. BUT, then again, i've made more specialty tools on a mill than i have on a lathe.a 3 in 1 might definitely be your best option. depends mainly on the size of the stuff you're working with.. if all you're doing is making wheel spacers and bushings and little stuff, then a smithy granite or equivalent machine would be wicked. you can mill and lathe and chase threads and all that on those little things.they even have a CNC adaptation and you can write some G code (THAT machine might take DFX.. i can't recall and am too lazy to look..lol) and mill small and somewhat complex parts. 3-D type stuff with 3 axis.. you can ALWAYS build cool stuff and adapt a machine more.. then next thing you know, you'll be hobbing gears for that CBR to change 1st and 2nd's ratios!! hahaha personally, i think i'd almost rather have a mill, because i can get crafty and if you're in a real jab, you can chuck things up and turn them down (DEFINITELY not the right way..) on a mill, OR use an indexing head and you can make stuff like shift drums or round complext parts.but.. i digress... whats the main thing you're going to do?http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no lifeThe problem is fast cars, big trucks, big guns, fast computers, better lathe/milling machines, it's all the same.....the more power you get, the more you want.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:amen.. hahh i'd LOVE to have a nice 15x30 CNC and a 48" lathe, but i'd settle for  12" drillpress about now http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no life
Reply:Reminds me of an old Tom T. Hall song.....  somethin' about faster horses, and more women"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hit me between the eyes on the way to bed.Faster horses, Younger women, More money.  Sure did like Tom T.Deadly CRS"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:crs... i call it  " tater"  as in " i got  some case of tater today"  ..
Reply:The only thing i can say is a lathe of proper size is about 100" with a strong engine, so it won't complain when you take a large "shaving"? < is this correct? my dictionary says..i have en old french lathe at home which has done a lot of work. though the lathe centre is abit off.¤If you got money, i've got time
Reply:Puzzled with the same question I got myself a lathe instead of a mill.It's a myford ML7 with longitudinal feed and enough different speeds.Cheapo things you need to get started and to make some production with accuracy:Some quick release clampsCobalt toolbits (old broken thread cutters or mills will do as well, anything that's hard and grindable, as long as it's steady clamped)Grinding wheel (to fix your own chisels)Not too expensive chisels (mainly the one for inside drilling)Drills big enough to accomodate the above chisel Digital calipers, magnet stand and micrometer gauge.That's enough for me at the moment. It'll allow me to fix my other tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by ElGuapoPuzzled with the same question I got myself a lathe instead of a mill.It's a myford ML7 with longitudinal feed and enough different speeds.Cheapo things you need to get started and to make some production with accuracy:Some quick release clampsCobalt toolbits (old broken thread cutters or mills will do as well, anything that's hard and grindable, as long as it's steady clamped)Grinding wheel (to fix your own chisels)Not too expensive chisels (mainly the one for inside drilling)Drills big enough to accomodate the above chisel Digital calipers, magnet stand and micrometer gauge.That's enough for me at the moment. It'll allow me to fix my other tools.
Reply:HGHS-Corp says, "The only thing i can say is a lathe of proper size is about 100" with a strong engine, so it won't complain when you take a large "shaving"? Wow!  Where did you get that?  And what "dictionary" can advise on the "proper" size of a lathe?  For whom?  For what purpose?   Why do we have to take a "large shaving?"  That kind of productivity is important primarily in a manufacturing setting where throughput is the crucial element of cost.  More power is always nice, but it is asecondary factor for maintenance and one-off jobs where actual cutting time is not a major element of total cost.That's an 8 foot + bed that's going to take up quite a bit of space in the shop.  I've gotten along pretty well with a 13" LeBlonde "Engineer" with about a 3 foot bed and a 1 HP motor for a number of decades, but then I don't make axles or rifle barrels.We still haven't heard anything about what kinds of work pieces the OP intends to work on.  awrightLast edited by awright; 12-29-2008 at 03:42 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by awrightHGHS-Corp says, "The only thing i can say is a lathe of proper size is about 100" with a strong engine, so it won't complain when you take a large "shaving"? Wow!  Where did you get that?  And what "dictionary" can advise on the "proper" size of a lathe?  For whom?  For what purpose?   Why do we have to take a "large shaving?"  That kind of productivity is important primarily in a manufacturing setting where throughput is the crucial element of cost.  More power is always nice, but it is asecondary factor for maintenance and one-off jobs where actual cutting time is not a major element of total cost.That's an 8 foot + bed that's going to take up quite a bit of space in the shop.  I've gotten along pretty well with a 13" LeBlonde "Engineer" with about a 3 foot bed and a 1 HP motor for a number of decades, but then I don't make axles or rifle barrels.We still haven't heard anything about what kinds of work pieces the OP intends to work on.  awright