Aluminium Filler rod boogers

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several times during my practice tonight, I tried to dab the filler into the puddle and the end of the filler turned into a glob of gunk that would not assimilate into the puddle. didnt happen all the time just every now and again. What I think was happning was the rod was getting too hot before getting to the puddle?T/A 1863/32 2%l lanth3/32 4043 filler1/8 6061 plate (lap joint)A/C HF -135 amps/ 150htz no pulse ,wave balance set to 40.any idea why this did this.
Reply:135A is a bit low for 0.125" thick aluminum.  You need more than the usual "1 amp per thou" rule.  40% is I'm assuming EP?  Some machines are backwards and go by EN.  If yours is %ep,  try lowering it down to about 35%EP,  make sure your torch angle to is correct and your arc length is not too large.  Dip the filler into the leading edge of the puddle ONLY once it turns into a "mirror reflection"----if no mirror in the puddle, then you dont even have a puddle. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:135amps is fine on that machine as it seems to run hotter than what it states. You dipping too fast and not waiting for it to puddle.That machine set at 40% means 40% cleaning EP. So I would adjust it to 30 or 35%.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:You have to be fast. push it in the puddle, if you dont it will start to melt and ball up like you were experiencing
Reply:Holding the rod close, like steel, will cook the end of the rod between dips. You have to pull the rod further away between dipsSqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:The annotation for wave balance on the 185TSW I used to use was opposite that of a Miller Dynasty.  The lower the number the less cleaning the arc will be doing.  For clean 6016 I would drop it all the way to 15, if the puddle wasn't clean bump it up 5% each time.  You will notice the tungstens keeping their sharpened tips longer as well.For the filler rod, It sounds like you are holding the filler metal too close to the torch, as the others mentioned, once the puddle is nice and shiny, quickly add the rod to the leading edge, retract, advance the puddle and repeat.
Reply:Covered pretty well by everyone. One thing I'll add is adding filler at the wrong angle or from the side or rear can cause gas coverage problems. Like mentioned add from the front of the puddle and keep the filler low down.
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTCovered pretty well by everyone. One thing I'll add is adding filler at the wrong angle or from the side or rear can cause gas coverage problems. Like mentioned add from the front of the puddle and keep the filler low down.
Reply:Agree with dipping near the leading edge of the puddle. But, I like to keep the rod 90 degrees to the electrode and bring it in from the side, because there is much less heat off to the side than directly in the path of the arc and it helps keep the filler solid till you're ready to dip. I also try to hold the rod near the nozzle between dips to help keep it in the gas cloud. If your filler can block out the gas either your filler is too big or you need more gas!Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Wow I haven't heard some of these problems so with out pics its hard to see in my mind......As mentioned aluminum filler must be a relatively quick movement if your filler angle is much different than the material being welded (it will start to melt  before it gets to the puddle) You have to be a DART THROWER  to keep the tungsten clearances  correct. Like a racer hitting your mark every turn to stay ahead ....  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Hitting your mark every lap.......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:^^^ nice looking beads there, BC.To the original poster, the angle of your TIG torch is really important, because the shielding gas that blows past the arc gets really, really hot (ever burn a glove finger?  You'll know).  If you blow too much of this "hot gas" at your filler rod, its tip will melt.  Using less torch angle will blow comparably more of this hot gas out the trailing side of the weld bead (where your filler rod probably isn't) and less out the front (where your filler rod probably is.)  So if you're having problems with your filler rod melting, use less torch angle.Sure there are other contributing factors, (like using too small a diameter filler, etc) but oversizing the filler can be a bad crutch.  It starts off not melting, but once it gets heated up (due to, for example, improper TORCH ANGLE), it will go back to having those melting issues you were trying to fix, until you stop and let everything cool.Sometimes there is a narrow "window" of what torch angle will work well that you need to maintain to get really great results.  Other times, window is pretty wide.  Depends on the setup.I like BC's tip to move the rod aggressively too.  Hot and fast is usually best for aluminum.  It will take some practice.
Reply:Aluminum is like DRAWING  a picture with a pencil for me.......I tend to waste time trying to get that perfect looking bead when in reality it doesn't need to be picture perfect to pass.......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CAluminum is like DRAWING  a picture with a pencil for me.......I tend to waste time trying to get that perfect looking bead when in reality it doesn't need to be picture perfect to pass.......