Tig brazing with silicon bronze, food grade application.

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I need to connect a stainless steel ferrule to a copper pipe.  This will be used for distillation of spirits so I don't want anything that would be poisonous like lead.  My first thought was lead free silver solder but damn that stuff is expensive.  But what If I were to tig braze it with silicon bronze?  I don't believe that silicon bronze contains any lead but is it typically used in situations like this?Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:I know im wrong, but if youre gonna make some white lightening that tastes like jet fuel and makes you run around naked shooting two 9mm's in the air and screaming in Japanese i wouldnt be worrying about side affects of a little si bronze weld. Just me tho lol I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Awesome Mike I'd tig it with a piece of copper house wire - not for any specific food grade reason, just cause I like to tig with house wire - looks cool.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by blackwaterstoutI need to connect a stainless steel ferrule to a copper pipe.  This will be used for distillation of spirits so I don't want anything that would be poisonous like lead.  My first thought was lead free silver solder but damn that stuff is expensive.  But what If I were to tig braze it with silicon bronze?  I don't believe that silicon bronze contains any lead but is it typically used in situations like this?Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:Lol.  It doesn't taste like jet fuel if you know what your doing.  A little practice and you can really make some very refined spirits.  In all honesty I see what your saying and the way these things go together there is really very little exposure to the braced or soldered area.  The use of brass is discouraged in any still building so was just curious about SB.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveAwesome Mike I'd tig it with a piece of copper house wire - not for any specific food grade reason, just cause I like to tig with house wire - looks cool.
Reply:Originally Posted by blackwaterstoutNever tried it.  What gauge wire are you using and I wouldn't think it would work with stainless?  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:See.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeSee.
Reply:Originally Posted by blackwaterstoutLol.  Don't stereotype me bro....  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeMy girlfriend was sitting on the couch listening to the video and she got up to look and laughed and said omg. I said, dont laugh....ive been that guy and she said YES YOU HAVE  i speak from experience brother
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveThey make speedos that small???
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeUnderoos bro, they went with my Tuffskins jeans.
Reply:Lmao bud  I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:blackwaterstoutExcuse the Nimrods . . .Bi-metallic welding is a serious study - but stainless steel and copper have a special affinity.See - http://www.a-holstein.de/ - link English, and review the site - also search in 'Images'.Holstein's work is the most beautiful metal-work I've had the good fortune to work on.It is the materialization: of Jules Verne's Nautilus, SteamPunk, and Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory.On the Web - I have never found a good 'close up' of the S/S to copper welds on their vessels - but:The S/S bottoms are weld jointed to the copper top with a 'gold hue' TIG bead.  The bead's conformation is a cross between steel, and aluminum.The top of the S/S bottom is a .375 x 2.00 flange, on-edge and is welded directly to the heavy hammered copper top.I do not know what the 'magic bean' filler rod is, but it is gorgeous.Search: dissimilar metal, bimetallic - welding  . . . Welding is the real deal - second best is to go the brewerbeer route, and use solder.Opus
Reply:@ blackwaterstout - try TIG brazing using Everdure (95Cu, 4Si, 1Mn) filler.  Many sculpture artists use this filler for brazing stainless to copper parts.   Everdure is more expensive than common Cu-Si filler, but seems to work better when joining Cu to SS.  Have not personally used Everdure, but will in the future.This topic has been covered in the past and there are several threads here that you may find useful."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveThey make speedos that small???
Reply:Originally Posted by Gerry1964They call them Budgie smugglers in the UK
Reply:Originally Posted by blackwaterstoutI need to connect a stainless steel ferrule to a copper pipe.  This will be used for distillation of spirits so I don't want anything that would be poisonous like lead.  My first thought was lead free silver solder but damn that stuff is expensive.  But what If I were to tig braze it with silicon bronze?  I don't believe that silicon bronze contains any lead but is it typically used in situations like this?Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:You dont really need a TIG machine to put on the silicone bronze either. Use the stick welder on straight I believe , it has been many years , and a quarter inch carbon rod sharpened in the stinger. Works fast but good
Reply:Are you using tri-clamp fittings or what.  More research here.  www.artisan-distiller.netMeasure with a micrometre, mark with chalk,  cut with a torch.Never force anything...just get a bigger hammer.RoyOld Airco buzz box approx 1974Lincoln mig pack 15Lincoln 175 square wave1954 9" south bend lathe
Reply:Sorry! I'm not trying to highjack this thread-but I have a question about the silicon bronze rods. And, being me, I don't know how to start a new thread! I bought some silicon bronze rods last week. I don't know what is going on, but, when I light up with my tig, they explode! The arc is so violent that you can't see the puddle. And the yellow smoke is so bad that if fogs the lens on my hood.I have tried them on both AC and DC. No difference! Could this be some O/A gas rod that was mislabeled? Got me seriously confused.
Reply:Originally Posted by 'StangSorry! I'm not trying to highjack this thread-but I have a question about the silicon bronze rods. And, being me, I don't know how to start a new thread! I bought some silicon bronze rods last week. I don't know what is going on, but, when I light up with my tig, they explode! The arc is so violent that you can't see the puddle. And the yellow smoke is so bad that if fogs the lens on my hood.I have tried them on both AC and DC. No difference! Could this be some O/A gas rod that was mislabeled? Got me seriously confused.
Reply:I still have not been to the LWS to pick up some silicon bronze.  But I played around a lot today with 12 gauge romex as filler rod on lots of different metals.  It was a lot of fun but not exactly sucessful.  I started by attempting to use it as brazing rod but it was very difficult getting only the romex to flow without melting the base metals (mild steel, stainless steel, copper sheeting).  What I was able to do was create welds with copper filler that while not structurally sound was very cool looking.  I could see why a lot of artists use variations of copper/bronze for contrast.  Since copper is a soft metal it would be interesting to know what the tensile strength is in that application.  It definately seemed to work best on mild steel and after cleaning up with a wire wheel it looked really cool.  I'm looking forward to getting my hands on some actual silicon bronze rod and seeing how much easier it is to work compared to the copper romex.  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
Reply:I belive I used sil brz on cast brass to  steel before, harris 45  and white flux also if memory serves, but memory aint so good no morepat h,   probably the white flux got you. Ha