stuff for my tractor

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I bought a compact tractor in Aug.  I've been having a blast with it hauling rocks, digging in the dirt, grading, and mowing.  I have also been fabricating stuff for it.Tool box holder Weight hitch stand.Miller 211
Reply:Also a  carry all. Miller 211
Reply:Good looking attachments richey
Reply:JD, come on man ya gotta go with Case IHOther then that the projects are great. The basket almost looks factory.PROUD   AMERICAN
Reply:NICE !  That little baby will pay for it self in no time. You could also add a couple of hooks on the bucket too.''JD, come on man ya gotta go with Case IH ''. Wait until you try to sell the Case IH. The DEERE will bring a lot more bucks then RED for sure.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1NICE !  That little baby will pay for it self in no time. You could also add a couple of hooks on the bucket too.''JD, come on man ya gotta go with Case IH ''. Wait until you try to sell the Case IH. The DEERE will bring a lot more bucks then RED for sure.
Reply:RED, GREEN , ORANGE , whatever. As long as they run and do the job they are all good. Parts are costly no matter what color. I would definitely use ALL JD original parts and fluid. Not much difference in price.
Reply:I think most of the compacts are plastic now days, it's just a color option for the most part.
Reply:After 30 years of building towards retirement on our ranch and 20 years of marriage, I'm the luckiest person in the world. I've got the three best thing a man could ever want; a horse that'll never leave me hangin', my JD 3520 tractor that's as good as they get and a wife that's the only thing that puts both of them to shame. Congratulations on that Mean Green Tractor Machine. She's a beauty and your work looks great.Last edited by jlames; 09-13-2013 at 10:46 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1RED, GREEN , ORANGE , whatever. As long as they run and do the job they are all good. Parts are costly no matter what color. I would definitely use ALL JD original parts and fluid. Not much difference in price.
Reply:Agreed. And with JD, the filters for maintenance come in kits so $164 and you have air and fluids covered. There is definitely a big difference between the foam and paper elements found in JD and those found in after-market filters that are alot cheaper. We tried changing to NAPA one time  but after 50 hours, we took them apart and there was a marked difference between the elements. The used JD were clogged of course but still holding together whereas the Chinese (hes, they happened to be Chinese) filters were clogging AND disintegrating. Since then, there's alot we'll buy at NAPA and Auto Zone but filters aren't one of them. Our neighbor is an IH man like I'm a JD man. I think it goes back to sons and dads. Grand dads and grandsons and the old Chevy Ford or Lincoln Miller wars.
Reply:Carry-All!I wanted to say something like "it will never work!"But its so ingenius and practical practical looking that I can't even tease you about it!I notice no "Refreshment Can Holder" though?
Reply:Nice work.I agree with bucket hooks, I put them on and they have been very useful.
Reply:We've had JD older Fords and updated just for mowing and Bushogging the farms. Kubota 4x4 90 hp and 60 hp tractors .   I guess progress is great but there sure was quality in the older ford and J D tractors.  I agree whole heartedly  on the filters ,we've had better luck with original OEMs .  Have had good luck on our construction equipment with Baldwin. Hmmm wounder how many different and  various attachments all the form members have built for the tractors.  I like the 3520 you posted.  Richey
Reply:I dont own a tractor. But a couple buddies do. Here is a set of front and rear forks that I built for a coworkers JD (same model even ..I think) Rear forks are boxed in and not removable. They do adjust side to side though. Attaches to the 3 point.  He has said these are real handy using a pallet of concrete block as a counter weight.    The front attaches to the bucket quick disconnect. Set up to adjust side to side and are removable. We "load tested" these with a 1000 lbs pallet and they worked just fine. This shows where I added a piece of flat bar on edge as a stiffener for the forks.They level out pretty well even at max height. He wanted to take them right then and there. LOL.And here is how the forks attach to the frames. We painted them safety yellow, close enough to JD yellow I guess. Back FrontAnd for another idea for ya. Here is a set of brush forks I built for another guys Massy. Just simply clamps to the bucket.Almost everything for both projects is 1/4" 4" C channel, 1/4" 2x2 tube and 1/4" flat bar.All welded with a Miller DVI .035 wire, heat setting 5.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Thanks for the compliment on my 3520. She's a good one. As for the hooks - yep, I agree; 3 of 'em - for 5/8" chain stickwelded to the top of your bucket. And scrape the paint first. There's literally no end to the uses you'll find for them. Then get yourself a 20' length of chain with tow hooks on the ends and toss it in the cab. Or, if you're in a house with a garage and not on big property, hang it on the garage wall. Really, there's nothing you won't be able to do with it. We have all the goodies on the tractor from 3-point gannon rippers and box to front loader and all the accessories like post hole digger, trencher and all that and the number one go to tool are those hooks and the chain. PLUS, it's a welding project for you!!! Can't beat that. A cheap welding project that'll pay all-day dividends.Last edited by jlames; 09-14-2013 at 05:44 PM.
Reply:Some pics for you.
Reply:The hooks on a bucket can be the most useful thing. They can really make a job much easier.However you must know your tractors limits. We had hooks on a almost new Kubota M8540 loader bucket. We had a guy operating it who caused some bad damage to the loader. The guy was using the bucket hook near the side. As he was pulling somehow the ram on the opposite side came loose from its mount to the loader frame. On farther inspection the loader arm was slightly bent but still worked and the bucket also was bent. Ever since that we really stressed the use of bride chains to help distribute the weight. We also made sure people had a better understanding of the equipment capacity.Basically If you use bucket hooks make sure the equipment can handle the weight and try to evenly distribute it.PROUD   AMERICAN
Reply:What he said!
Reply:Big and Yellow ....i winAttachment 494541Been thinking about Pimpin my ride   Attachment 494551Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Oh now Al's just showin' off!!!!
Reply:My wife just bought this and her brother built an attachment to put a set of forks on it so she could load her bees. She pulls it with a F450 16' flatbed. Attached Images
Reply:What was said about balancing the load with bucket hooks is true, but then that's true for all things with a loader.  You can bend things with unbalanced pallet forks or a bucket too.
Reply:People always want to turn up the pressure on there hydraulics because there is something they can't pick upThey set it like that based on the weight the front axle can bare  and it's low for a safety factorseen a lot of people break the front axle housings and loader arms cracked and bent from unbalanced loadsBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Good lookin' rig, pruaz. I like the suitcase weight holder.  I bought a comparable sized Kubota over four years ago and it has turned out to be one of the handier things I own. It has made a lot of jobs around the place doable instead of impossible for me. The first thing I did was add hooks on the bucket and eventually got around to adding a couple of chain boxes so I could keep chains on the tractor instead of having to scare them up every time I needed a chain. They are made from some scrap light wall 4"x4" sq. tube I had laying around. Welded bottoms in two pieces of tube, drilled mounting and drain holes to fit existing holes, and mounted one on each front loader samson post. The second thing was to build a shade from some aluminum sheet that had been taking up space for years. Then I built a rear counter weight from some 16" OD pipe that was also sitting and rusting. I made a tank to hold water for ballast. Sure makes a difference when using the bucket. I've been thinking about the suitcase weight deal because the tank extends a little too far behind the tractor to suit me.Originally Posted by jlamesAttachment 494391Attachment 494401Attachment 494411Some pics for you.
Reply:Originally Posted by jlamesAttachment 494391Attachment 494401Attachment 494411Some pics for you.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauIt's better for your loader if you mount these chain hooks inline with the loader arms rather than out on the end of the bucket like these. It helps reduce twisting force on the bucket if the load is not exactly evenly balanced.
Reply:^^^Yeah, I must have missed your post or was composing (long-winded ) when you posted.Of course, I agree with your observation about the placement of the hooks.
Reply:The perfect hook placement only extends the weight range before you bend the crap outta things. In my mind hook placement is far less critical than judgement."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Just as a quick, final, "been-there-done-that-so-watch-out" comment, alot of people, wrongly, berate "compact" tractors as something less than worthy of the "tractor" moniker. Like it is with everything, you have to match the tool to the job and for us with our acreage, the 3520 was the perfect choice for the tasks we need done. For you, the 23xx series may be the right choice. For people like Al, nothing is too big :-). They're all tractors. But the point is, as so many people have said, common sense should be your guiding light in picking and using you. When using bucket hooks, don't lift heavy objects with the corner hooks because because if those loads are too heavy, the over-weight will cant the bucket and twist the boom arms making the front loader crooked and the tractor look like a car or truck with a bent frame. The hydraulic cylinders will also go out of whack reducing general lifting power. Using the center hook distributes the weight evenly avoiding damage to the loader and its components. The cylinders are sized to work in tandem with each other to lift the rated load. Placing too much of a load on one side reduces the useful load capacity (and it makes your tractor look odd!!!) This advice has already been noted I know but what Fletcher94 can't be overstated. Welding lift hooks on the upper ridge of your bucket will be an important addition, not only from a dead-lift perspective, i.e booming up, but also canting the bucket back towards you, i.e "scooping", with the lever because physics multiplies the lifting power by leveraging the offset connection at the top ridge against lower bucket edge, but torsioning the bucket by lifting all the weight on one corner can do some real, expensive damage. That being said, have fun with your new tractor. She's a beuty. And yes, it's OK to wash and wax it. (inside joke amongst new tractor owners!)
Reply:Our postings must have crossed but upon reflection, we're thinking the same thing. I agree with Bistineau and GWD's posts comments. That makes sense. Smart fellas but that's why this forum is so good. But they'll still be a great addition.
Reply:Originally Posted by jlamesJust as a quick, final, "been-there-done-that-so-watch-out" comment, alot of people, wrongly, berate "compact" tractors as something less than worthy of the "tractor" moniker. Like it is with everything, you have to match the tool to the job and for us with our acreage, the 3520 was the perfect choice for the tasks we need done. For you, the 23xx series may be the right choice. For people like Al, nothing is too big :-). They're all tractors. But the point is, as so many people have said, common sense should be your guiding light in picking and using you. When using bucket hooks, don't lift heavy objects with the corner hooks because because if those loads are too heavy, the over-weight will cant the bucket and twist the boom arms making the front loader crooked and the tractor look like a car or truck with a bent frame. The hydraulic cylinders will also go out of whack reducing general lifting power. Using the center hook distributes the weight evenly avoiding damage to the loader and its components. The cylinders are sized to work in tandem with each other to lift the rated load. Placing too much of a load on one side reduces the useful load capacity (and it makes your tractor look odd!!!) This advice has already been noted I know but what Fletcher94 can't be overstated. Welding lift hooks on the upper ridge of your bucket will be an important addition, not only from a dead-lift perspective, i.e booming up, but also canting the bucket back towards you, i.e "scooping", with the lever because physics multiplies the lifting power by leveraging the offset connection at the top ridge against lower bucket edge, but torsioning the bucket by lifting all the weight on one corner can do some real, expensive damage. That being said, have fun with your new tractor. She's a beuty. And yes, it's OK to wash and wax it. (inside joke amongst new tractor owners!)