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My wife gave me the green light to build my shop since we just finished building her quilting studio. I don't lack for space, we live on 10 acres. Realistically I wouldn't like to go bigger than 30X60. I don't have to worry about storing non-shop related crap like Christmas decorations in it so it is dedicated to shop only.I don't like woodworking (you can't weld the board back together if you screw it up) and I don't very little automotive (Cars are too complicated now a days) I weld/fab in my shop and maybe, and its a big maybe, I would do some machining in the future. I am a hobbyist and this isn't for my lively hood. I can't get 3 phase at my shop, limited to single phase only. I could use converters if needed. I currently have a MM211, 110/220 plasma/ Ellis 9400 drill press, Ellis bandsaw, Ellis belt grinder and Quincy 22 CFM air compressor. Those are the tools I have currently. I do need to be able to park 2 vehicles in it so I was thinking of having either the shop fab area towards the back and vehicles by the door or doors on both ends. I live in Idaho so it will be insulated. No preference on framed, steel etc so I would love your input on that.I like to do stuff right when I do it and not cheap out if possible.I have thought of installing an overhead crane, having air routed around the shop etc. What you you include, plan for, do if you were starting from scratch, had a pretty healthy budget (for me it seems healthy) and wanted to have the ideal set up with flexibility to add additional capability in the future?I am young (37) and plan to live in this house until I die so I want to do it right but not spend money I don't have too.Thanks for the help.
Reply:OK when/ if I build another shop it will be a 40' D * 30' W steel. If you have the steel shop design a crane support into the framing you can have crane rails set as money permits. I plan on having 1 of the 30' walls as a temporary wall so I can extend the building as needed. I see shops all the time that didn't plan on expanding and they had to cobble something together when adding on.
Reply:Ask him real nice and CEP will show you a shop to die for!
Reply:I wouldn't know what goes on in Idaho, as far as permits to build, but you might study up on it before talking to the county. Maybe temporarily get a couple sheep or goats, give your place an agricultural name, and talk about putting a manger and water trough on the plans. Sounds crazy, but something like that can save you big bucks where i live. It's probabaly a good time of year to think about getting the right dirt or base for a elevated foundation, w/ a slight grade down outside the shop. When it comes time to pour, maybe have found at least one guy who really knows his cement. Theres a secret art to getting/making flat cement that dont crack. Think about the direction of summer breeze, rain, and your doors. You can always ad your elect and stuff after the inspector leaves. I might be talking extreme for idaho, but not for here in ca
Reply:Man, you have a tough dilemma on your hands.. No, just kidding.. I am in a similar situation, (similar age, final house in rural area, looking to build a shop) but not quite the same scale as you are talking about. $$ is always the biggest factor for me, so I tend to build what I can trading time for $$ to keep the costs down. If it's not so much a factor for you, then consider yourself luckier than the next guy and have fun at the toy store!! Do you have a table by chance? If not, you plan to buy/build? Justifying a Strong Hand fixture table for instance vs building your own table/jigs would be highly dependant on your anticipated work and/or budget. You mentioned an overhead crane.. You looking at an actual overhead crane, or a rolling A-frame gantry crane? You plan on building the shop structure yourself, or contracting out the work? Plasma table? Buy or build?Of course, building stuff vs buying/contracting takes time. Gratification speed preference may dictate this decision. You'll either spend more time/less money doing it yourself, or you'll spend a lot of money up front and get to play with all your new toys sooner! Kinda like the good, fast, cheap scenario, but directed inward.-Niche
Reply:Here's my hobby shop. 40' x 48' 16' tall. With 24' x 24' carport on one end for the trucks. And a 8' x 8' compressor / phase converter room on the other end. Oh you have to have a bridge crane in every hobby shop, it's the law. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPHere's my hobby shop...
Reply:I will build my table and plasma table. I am thinking of a real bridge crane.What kinds of things do I need to incorporate into this thing?
Reply:High ceilings are a must. I'd want to have the ceilings at least high enough that I could put a lot over part of the area for storage. The lower area could have an office, bathroom etc, while above would be a walk around storage area accessible from the main shop space.I have big vehicles, so a big roll up door would be a must, and in a long building, I'd want to have at least two doors on the long wall and possibly one in the back wall for cross ventilation.I'd agree about planning in advance about how you might want to expand.In cold climates, I'd think about doing radiant tube flooring for heat..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The one thing I tell everyone who is building a garage or shop : Use the foam board insulation and vapor barrier under your concrete. It seems expensive, but after you get it you will be glad you spent the money. You will love it as much in the summer (if you have high humidity) as you do in the winter. The buildings that don't have it here will get water on the floor in the summer from hot humid days when the cold floor sweats. Wood or cardboard on the floor will get moldy. Then you look at your tools and equipment and they are all damp from the humidity. But not in my shop with the insulated floor.I also have tubing installed in the floor for heat, even if I don't plan on using it initially. I probably will in the future when I am too old and tired to cut, haul, and split firewood for the wood stove. That tubing also seems expensive, but you only get the one chance to install it. Heck I even had it installed in the apron in front of the shop and will put it under the new sidewalk. I Will be able flip the heat on for an hour to remove the occasional ice buildup.
Reply:I also used insulation board around the footings on the insides. Tubing in the floor in zones. Unfortunately I didn't think of zoning the floor just for the office and bathroom, so I have to heat part of the shop. One day I will buy a gas boiler and put it in. So I can use the floor heat. Right now I use a 3 ton package unit to heat and tool the entire shop. 30' *52' *12' to the truss. Insulate the best you can afford. I have storage over the office 4' craw space. Just enough to load the kids bounce house with the forklift. The upstairs is rated at 50' lbs per Sq ft. I just has insulation blown in on the 3 walls and rolled on the first floor ceiling. It is like nite and day difference from heat loose.
Reply:I lucked out a couple years ago and bought this wood framed metal shop from a church that is from the seventies. It is a heavy gauge steel that you dont see much today. They bought the land it was on, and they wanted it gone in 7 days. I took some of my vacation time and I took it down by myself in 4 days. I had to cut the posts off that were inside it (4x6) because they were inbedded in the concrete. I bought it for 3000 dollars. I enlisted my dad to help me put it back up and we rented a offroad scissor lift. We had it back up in a couple weeks. I then put the concrete in for 3500. I now have a 30x60x10 shop wired and all for around 9000 bucks and a sore back. I think I did alright on that deal! I am gonna use the cut off posts for a shelter down the side soon. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Bflee; 01-16-2015 at 09:17 PM.
Reply:Focus on the basics.10 foot ceiling, or more if you want a bridge crane later.Pipe air around the outside, outlets every 10 feet or so. Ideally, you would have 50 feet of pipe before the first outlet, to let the air cool and the water condense out. Don't forget drains.110V Electrical outlets every 10 feet or so. A few 20 amp circuits.Electrical panel in shop, minimum 100 amps 240 volts.30 amp 220 outlet for compressor, 50 to 100 amp 220 outlet for a welder. Concrete floorI know people like heating tubes in the floor, but unless you plan to heat it all the time that is overkill, and probably inefficient, as it will take too long to heat the place up. You don't know if you will be in there every day. Things may come up, and days could go by without you even walking into the shop. You don't want to be heating a shop that you are not using, especially in Idaho. Better to have a system that will heat the shop quickly.I would install a small bathroom, such that it could be heated even if the shop was not, to avoid breaking pipes. A utility sink could be put in the bathroom.You will probably want to insulate a metal building in Idaho. Foam insulation that is not protected from sparks is a fire and toxic smoke hazard.I wish I had the real estate for a bigger shop, but my garage is adequate for my work, which is mostly small.Sculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:I don't use 90 on pipe I use tee with a plug. Several times that had me setup for a nice change order when they just wanted to add 1 little air line over there. I had to pull a plug out and start running pipe. I put 60" long 2" 4140 round stock in the floor like pulling pots for frame guys. These pots are in 8" pipe that you can pull a cover off to access. The slab is 4000 lbs mix, 6" at the thinnest these pulling pots are 10" or better.I used Styrofoam insulation around the footers, vapor barrier, insulated roll blankets, then 4" wire mesh, tied my radiant tubing to the mesh. No splices in my tubing into the slab. I went anal on the tubing. Where the slab and footings meet I put 2 extra loops of tubing.H € LL who am I kidding I went anal all away around with my shop. 200 Amp service. 2 receptacles every 10' feet. 50A 4 wire drops between the overhead doorate so we can have power on both sides of the shop for multiple welders. Air is in the works (not ran yet). I plan on a loop of air around the shop. Several air drops with drip legs on each drop. Sloping the whole pipe loop away for condensation and a auto drain valve. I will try to get some pics Sat.
Reply:Carefully plan for lot's of light. As you age you need more light on your work.One of my shops is 40 x 60 x 12 w/ 15 cut off for office/apt. In the 40 x 45 area I have 10 old 8 foot 2 tube T12 fixtures, which when working barely provided good light at waist level. Their ballasts are dying and I was planning on replacing them with 4 bulb T5 units.And if you are even THINKING of getting into machining put in more 220 and plan for a rotary converter "shed". All the time I'm seeing 3 phase machining equipment being auctioned off.And then turning up on Craigs list or Ebay after a little cleaning up and a big jack in price.And good luck confining your hobby to welding, mission creep often sets in.
Reply:One thing that amazes me is all the abilities of the folks on this forum to take the material they have at hand and build some sort of shop from it . However the size turns out large or small. Here in Alabama part of our farm shop is built from an old bridge using I beam for the post and Main rafters and tin off a building that we tore down that was built in the early 60s . (Boy is that tin heavy ). It would be nice to start a building thread listing all the things one might need in his dream shop so folks can pick and choose items that they actually need for their location. By the way I like the idea of having a smaller area sealed off that is heated and dehumidified all the time even if it has lower ceiling heights. Here in Alabama the high humidity just ruins our drill press table and columns or any other shinny piece of metal. One thing our shop needs is storage for parts and welding wire , extra torch tips , saw blades and other items. Any suggestion guys on how to get the most bang for the buck and keep everything out of sight and stored neatly? I noticed on an earlier thread a while back Wyo Roy has some nice ways of storing his stuff. Richey
Reply:danmcphCongratulations on your Green Light for an Ultimate Shop.All of your considerations are 'well grounded' - and it should start with the ground . . . You have 10 acres - the first - and most overlooked consideration when building; is siting the building.Idaho: are you East - West - Central or North. What is your topography,what is your elevation, and what is your sun exposure.The design of your Ultimate Shop is determinate/dictated by your site.The structure and the contents of an Ultimate Shop is the easy part.To make it work for a life-time requires indices of premeditations.Survey, site, design - redesign, and build last - take your time.Opus.Last edited by OPUS FERRO; 01-17-2015 at 12:58 AM.Reason: < isn't ^
Reply:Read the tread in the link. The Pirate4x4 guys have quite a bit of good information. They also have a shop build stickey that's worth looking at too.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-...s-learned.html
Reply:Originally Posted by richeyOne thing that amazes me is all the abilities of the folks on this forum to take the material they have at hand and build some sort of shop from it . However the size turns out large or small. Here in Alabama part of our farm shop is built from an old bridge using I beam for the post and Main rafters and tin off a building that we tore down that was built in the early 60s . (Boy is that tin heavy ). It would be nice to start a building thread listing all the things one might need in his dream shop so folks can pick and choose items that they actually need for their location. By the way I like the idea of having a smaller area sealed off that is heated and dehumidified all the time even if it has lower ceiling heights. Here in Alabama the high humidity just ruins our drill press table and columns or any other shinny piece of metal. One thing our shop needs is storage for parts and welding wire , extra torch tips , saw blades and other items. Any suggestion guys on how to get the most bang for the buck and keep everything out of sight and stored neatly? I noticed on an earlier thread a while back Wyo Roy has some nice ways of storing his stuff. Richey
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Well, I think you got the general idea after seeing Carl's PALACE he so humbly calls a "hobby shop"
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPHey! That is my hobby shop! I'm just a hobbyist! Only been welding a few weeks now. With that little of experience, I would never charge anybody for welding. It's all practice / learning for me.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DI think its been long enough where you could say a few months now.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Yeah, you're just one of those youtube guys... That's right I'll keep dreaming about that hobby shop you have that maybe one day mine will be half as cool
Reply:What is a "rotary converter shed"My wife gave me approval to build this thing without a budget so give me your dream list.I will have a bridge crane :-)
Reply:Originally Posted by danmcphWhat is a "rotary converter shed"Originally Posted by danmcphWhat is a "rotary converter shed"My wife gave me approval to build this thing without a budget so give me your dream list.I will have a bridge crane :-)
Reply:Congratulations on the green light... I aspire to be in a position like that later in my life.,.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk"I thank God for all the freedoms we've got in this country, I cherish even the right to burn the flag, but I'll tell you what, we've also got the right to bear arms and if you burn my flag I'll shoot you"-Johnny Cash
Reply:Originally Posted by danmcphWhat is a "rotary converter shed"My wife gave me approval to build this thing without a budget so give me your dream list.I will have a bridge crane :-)
Reply:Definately put piping in for infloor heat. You can always hook it up later. We put a pit in for servicing equipment that is deep enough to stand straight up under cars and ran hydro and air under the floor to it. We also put receiver hitch tubing in the floor in a couple of places. We then took a piece of 2" tube 36" long and and welded a plate to it for a 6" vice. The vice is away from the bench with lots of swing room. When it is not in use we hang it on the wall. We also have a hand shear, compact bender and tire changer adapted for these receivers. LIGHTS! LIGHTS! LIGHTS! and don't forget room for washroom, beer fridge, microwave and coffee maker.
Reply:I am thinking of going 40X16X60. I think I will be into this about 100K. I want a bridge crane as well. What advice do people have on bridge cranes?
Reply:When we built our new house, I was contemplating the size of my workshop that I was going to build. Initially I thought 40X60, but ended up with 30X40. I am glad I did after sweeping and mopping that shop one day. I could not imagine trying to keep a 40X60 relatively clean. Also the 30X40 is plenty big for me. Just some of my thoughts.Syncrowave 210HH140Victor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by danmcphWhat advice do people have on bridge cranes?
Reply:When I get a bridge it will be underhung setting on top of the rail. This way you get maximum head height and minimum overall height. You loose a little bit of side travel.
Reply:So here is an update.I will build 40X60X16 instead of 30X60X16. The extra 10 feet of width makes more sense on my lot.All garage doors will be on the 60' sideI will have a 12'X14' garage door on each side to set up a drive through bay. I will put a 2 post lift in that area. The next area over will have a 20'X14' garage door and this will be my for my welding/fabication/large farm equipment bay. The next area will be a 15' wide mezzanine that runs the entire 40' width of the shop. The upper level will be built out as an apartment for guests etc. The lower area will be for workbenches, toolboxes etc. What things do I want to make sure I am including in the layout/construction etc?I ruled out a bridge crane ($$$)Radiant heat???Etc.ThanksLast edited by danmcph; 01-23-2015 at 08:42 AM.
Reply:Another thing to think about doing, at your doors, go with a thickened slab. Say 12 wide, and 12 deep. So when / if you have to drive something heavy in the shop you don't break the slab.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Though you won't have a bridge crane you need to look into some type of lifting system for your shop. Believe me you will find the need for it. Look into noise reducing insulation for the apartment. That way you can do most of your normal work with out disturbing them.HF 90 Amp Flux Core Customized.
Reply:What do you recommend for alternatives for a bridge crane?I would love to have a bridge but quotes were coming in at the 20K range.What kind of lifting capacity do you feel would be enough for a hobbyist?
Reply:I got $3,000.00 into my bridge crane. 24-feet span x 40-feet power travel. Take your time look for good deals for beams, and hoist. I went with 8 to 10 thick slab in the half of my shop the bridge crane is in.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Gantry crane or forklift. A forklift is more versatile than a bridge crane.
Reply:What a previous poster said about lighting : I had the electrician "just do it" and was floored by the bill and lack of results. It was just 2 bulb 8 foot florescent lights, 4 fixtures on each side (8 total). I regretted that ever since. They have never worked well (starting issues) and are noisy and the brightness doesn't thrill me. Now after 10 years, there are so many choices in lighting, I almost want to rip it all out. But in another 10 years it will be better yet, so what to do???????? I wish I would have just ran large conduit and junction boxes. Then I can just upgrade whatever fixture is hanging at the junction boxes with the latest High Output, or LED, or florescent or whatever is cheap and effective. I mean, instead of living with whatever the electrician threw up there, I can choose what to put there after I see first hand what it looks like in other shops or commercial buildings. And maybe change it again in 10 years if it gets even better and cheaper.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:Have you considered jib crane? Years ago we had them in our plant andThey worked out ok. Another thought wouldBe find and old IMT crane off old crane truck. Use 120volts and Hyd pump to operateItDig a smallPit and pour with lots of concrete and steel to stabLize. Some times you can find them cheap.
Reply:I have 48 of these brooder lights in the ceiling of my shop. I started out with 150-watt flood light bulbs. But now I use the screw in spiral /coil light. Takes a couple minutes to get bright, but once they do it's like being out in the sun light. http://www.hardwareworld.com/Brooder...sbIBoCPKjw_wcBDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:That's exactly what I am talking about. Simple, cheap and you can put whatever bulb you want in there. I have tried the 200 watt and 300 watt equiv. CFL which I would prefer over the tube fixtures. And if they eventually offer reasonably priced 200w and 300w equiv. LED bulbs you won't have to wait for them to heat up.http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies...;pg104079.htmlLast edited by bead-boy; 01-23-2015 at 02:14 PM.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:45:31