Old School Torch-Brazing (Video)

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Goodmorning, everyone!!So... *leans back in chair* Back in my day, in high school, like three years ago We did a little torch brazing... We made pirate-ships out of like 22 gauge steel, and it was a blast... Actually it WAS a blast, one of my buddies in that class didnt turn his torch off all the way one day, and set it down next to an opening in his boat... Then he started brazing on it a few minites later and it damn near exploded... Ahha, the memories Where was I going with this, oh yeah, right...I recently picked up a tube of brazing rods, and the other night my friend Wes (whose been in a number of other videos with me) happened to stop by and we did some Oxy-Acetylene torch brazing, just because.It wasn't an all out instructional video like I usually do, just some footage of us brazing some 14 gauge steel coupons with commentary on what we're doing and a few tips thrown in there as well. I thought it turned out really well, and people on YouTube seem to like it, so I figured I'd just stop in and share it with y'all real quick. I plan to make more brazing, and some oxy-acetylene videos in the near future.Hope y'all like the video: Have a great week, everyone! [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Cool. How bout some oaw since you are already set up for it?
Reply:It'll be coming along here soon [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:For general OA situations I teach my kids the following ratios- 2:1 for brazing (10 psi oxygen, 5 p.s.i acetylene) and 6:1 for cuttingI make my first year kids do 6-8 weeks of O/A. The first year I taught, I only had them do it for 2 weeks and then they were horrible when it came to the other processes took them longer to develop the feel and "see" the puddle. The fine puddle manipulation really helped them to actually "see" the puddle.Last edited by moparman68; 05-15-2013 at 04:47 PM.Some blue machinesSome red machineslots of heavy steel
Reply:Thanks Lanse,  Cast iron would be great.  How about stainless to stainless, and stainless to copper.  Lots of guys on the beer brewing forums that are looking for decent videos on soldering copper and stainless.I'd like to see silver soldering too, but that can be expensive.
Reply:You guys need to study the brazing, the advantages, and technique.  This was not a good video.  It looks like two weldors treating brazing as welding. Regardless of what you explain in the beginning, you guys braze and analyze the braze as one might a weld.  For those lap joints.  Capillary action should be discussed.   Perhaps walk the bronze out the other side of the coupon.  What about cleaning the coupons?  You guy are only looking at the surface. While it should be controlled what is going on underneath is most important.  torch - brazing playing 101.
Reply:Using the correct size brazing rod helps alot. Use a smaller diameter brazing rod for thinner materials same as you would do with stick welding or any other process. A thinner rod has a lower melting point and requires less area to be heated for the filler to melt and flow properly. I personally do not care for the flux coated rods. Finer more controlled work can be done with plain bronze rod and paste flux in my opinion. You can put the flux right where you need it so the flux is beneath the filler rod rather than on top of it so that you get less flare on top which helps you to see your filler material deposition more clearly. You can manipulate or control your heat/puddle by lightly dancing or moving your torch in a circular or slight whip and pause motion similar to stick welding.Last edited by weldtex; 05-16-2013 at 07:09 AM.
Reply:Nice video Lanse.  I love brazing and still use the heat and dip method.Sweating copper makes me crazy, some pieces work perfectly.  I clean, I apply flux, some heat, add the solder and it wicks right up into the joint perfectly.  On another joint I tried 3 times and finally gave up the solder would not stick no matter what I did.  I cleaned, sanded, polished, applied flux and the solder would never stick to the copper."G"ConductorX - The Volkswright Shophttp://volkswright.blogspot.com/http://bugwerks.blogspot.com/Miller DVI w/Spoolgun - Miller Plasma Cutter
Reply:Old School Brazing ?I think the videos of Keith Fenner are more representative of that.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldtexUsing the correct size brazing rod helps alot. Use a smaller diameter brazing rod for thinner materials same as you would do with stick welding or any other process. A thinner rod has a lower melting point and requires less area to be heated for the filler to melt and flow properly.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Cool Lanse BUT, old school, we didn't have coated rods, instead it was a case of heat rod, dip in flux tin, braze, dip, braze, dip....you get the picture..... Hey, at least you could see what you were doing..... ...
Reply:Originally Posted by ConductorXNice video Lanse.  I love brazing and still use the heat and dip method.Sweating copper makes me crazy, some pieces work perfectly.  I clean, I apply flux, some heat, add the solder and it wicks right up into the joint perfectly.  On another joint I tried 3 times and finally gave up the solder would not stick no matter what I did.  I cleaned, sanded, polished, applied flux and the solder would never stick to the copper."G"
Reply:Originally Posted by wireheadA thinner rod doesn't have a lower melting point. Melting point depends only upon material. The thinner rod just requires less heat to melt!Speaking of which, I noticed in the video you guys using the flame to melt the rod. I always carried the impression that the flame should never be used to melt the "solder" but only to bring the base metal up to the melting point of the "solder". I think you also could have used a smaller torch tip for the pieces you are joining. Looks like a lot of bronze thereBut I do enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them!
Reply:Porn for me ! I braze and O/A weld a lot. It's very under-rated. Slow . Yes. Accurate. OH YEAH. I like the control.Sometimes I tack stiff together and finish it all with braze ! I put a lil sumthin' by my doormat and the acetylene fairy exchanges my bottle. The acetylene fairy only speaks German ! It flies around here.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:If you make a line with soapstone the brazing will not flow over it, provided the base material is not over heated. It helps make a tidier looking job.brad
Reply:Originally Posted by Brad NIf you make a line with soapstone the brazing will not flow over it, provided the base material is not over heated. It helps make a tidier looking job.brad
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Cool Lanse BUT, old school, we didn't have coated rods, instead it was a case of heat rod, dip in flux tin, braze, dip, braze, dip....you get the picture..... Hey, at least you could see what you were doing..... ...
Reply:Tried the soap thing. Brass never got there. I'll try it off position on another project.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:When brazing, tinning is critical. That is the term I learned years ago to describe the cappilary action. If the (steel/iron) is heated beyond the point of tinning, the surface will "burn" (oxides) and the brass won't stick.http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketWhen brazing, tinning is critical. That is the term I learned years ago to describe the cappilary action. If the (steel/iron) is heated beyond the point of tinning, the surface will "burn" (oxides) and the brass won't stick.