Dry air suggestions for Plasma

admin

Does anyone have any mfg'r or model  suggestions for an air filter and dryer  for a Plasma cutter? Also any air line setup tips appreciated. Thanks,Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:motorguard is the best.http://www.motorguardplasma.com/
Reply:Ok, thanks for the tip . Anyone second that motion?Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:Motorgard is what my Hypertherm dealer suggusted when I purchased my HT1250 G3.   It also helps to pre-dry your plasma air by being as far as possible from your air compressor.  This allows the hot compressed air to chill to room temperature in the lines & a large part of the mousture will drop out & allow you to catch it in a standard bowl type water seperator.  Pryor to going into the motorguard filter.The picture of the one that pops up from the above link looks identical to the one I have.  They do have a paper looking filter that has to be periodically replaced.  Change interval will vary depending on how much you can get your air cleaned up before it hits the MG filter.The ultimate of course is a refrigerated air dryer.   & actually the one Harbor Freight Tools sells for about $400.00 US is a pretty good unit & comes with a 3 year replacement warranty.IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:I just rigged up a Motor Guard M30 near my big compressor then I have about a 75ft run of line so I got a little LA-Man 520A dual chamber off Ebay on the cheap which is mounted directly to my Cutmaster 38. Works like a charm. You definitely want the extra filter if you have a long run after your main filter because the dry air will have a chance to condense again by the time it gets to the end of the line. You won't get a lot of moisture, but why take the chance? I can blow air out of my second filter for an hour into a paper towel and it will be bone dry.I also think a very important thing to remember is to run your piping up from the compressor before going out or down, that way the moisture has a much harder time getting into your piping and will settle into the tank where it can be drained.
Reply:Thanks JH225. Good points. I guess I will price a Motor guard at my LWS and hope he is reasonably close to the on line pricing.Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:Originally Posted by NicadThanks JH225. Good points. I guess I will price a Motor guard at my LWS and hope he is reasonably close to the on line pricing.
Reply:^^^^ Holy ****. Thats one good price. $61 on amazon. I would buy it now. Most places want 100-120 dollars. I however dont think that is the "plasma" filter, but it is still a good price.I would suggest not hooking it up to your main line (right off the compressor).It will collect too much water and junk in the lines. You would have to be changing the filter often. Motorguard makes filters to hook up to the main line. Just dont use the plasma filter because it filter "too" fine of the dirt out and it would stop up the filter in a few days. hook it up just before your plasma to get the most out of it.
Reply:I gave $80 something for mine added to the invoice when I purchased my plasma machine.I agree with Ace,  I'd try to get my air cleaned up with first a "drip" leg in the line followed by a standard bowl type water/oil trap & locate the plasma filter closer to the plasma machine.Most air you use to blow things off run impacts etc is clean enough after conventional methods of removing water......  motorguard filters actually have a filter element that needs changed when it gets contaminated.   I wouldn't want to buy that filter any more often than is necessary.IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:Thanks guys. Amazon will only ship books to Canada. Free trade...what free trade? I will most liklely have a filter before the final plasma filter. Will put it on the wall by the Pasma's new home.Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:Guy's,The only difference between the M30 (standard 1/4") & the M26 (plasma) is the fitting points. That came straight from the source as I called MotorGuard myself. The only difference between the M30(1/4") and the M60(1/2") is the fitting size. I chose the 1/4" as that is the size of all my air chucks.I had the standard clear "drip bowl" type water separator for years and it always sucked (too bad it didn't suck water out of the line). For the average home shop user who uses the compressor once in a while for impact gun, impact chisel, whizzer wheel, etc, the M45 kit (M30 unit plus 2 extra filters for $61) is a no brainer. If you have a home shop set up like myself and have the bowl type filter, ask yourself how much water you drain out after each use? Maybe a teaspoon or so? At that rate, it would take many a moon to use up the first "toilet paper" filter from the M45 kit, then you still have 2 more. When they get soaked, new ones can be had for $6-8 anywhere (even at the LWS)I will be the first to admit that it is not the ideal set up for a pro shop, but for a home shop, the M30/45 as the main, along with a filter at the plasma unit itself (I got my LA-Man 520A for $35 on Ebay) just can't be beat for under $100. I have cool, dry air 75 ft away from my compressor.ETA: Just to add a thought. If I find that the M30 is getting wet too fast, all I would have to do is slip a drip style into my 1/2" line coming out of the compressor a few feet before the M30. 2 minute job.ETA #2: When I fired up my plasma for the first time last week, the first words that came out of my mouth were F***in' Cool!Last edited by jh225; 05-22-2009 at 03:38 PM.