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I'm making a vise stand for my garage shop, material is, base: 1" plate - 20" square, pedestal: 6"x6" square tube, 1/2" wall, top: round 1-3/4" thick by 10" diameterMy welders are CST280 w. 6010 5P+ rod 3/16", can get a little over 200 amps w single phase.Also have a Miller 210 w .035 dual shield.I'm thinking of preheating base and top to 250 deg, then lay in 3 passes of 6010, then cover with 7018 rod or dual shield mig. Also considering using 6010 for all of it.How would you proceed w the equipment I have? I don't weld thick plate like this typically, so trying to make it as solid as I can w preheat and multiple passes.Thanks!
Reply:No preheat, just 7018 only
Reply:1-3 passes of 7018 and call it a day.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by Boostinjdm1-3 passes of 7018 and call it a day.
Reply:Pour the Heat into It?Better to do a SEARCH on here first for discussions on how to build these, then SEARCH for the discussions on how to straighten a warped plate.Granted 1" plate MAY NOT warp, but sucks to be you to be posting afterwards asking how to fix it!
Reply:W/ that much combined weight it might as well be bolted to the floor. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:The 6010 with 3 passes would more than adequate imo. Jody at welding tips and tricks did a nice video for a for a similar bender stand with 7018. I wouldnt buy 7018 just for this project though.
Reply:Originally Posted by drujininPour the Heat into It?Better to do a SEARCH on here first for discussions on how to build these, then SEARCH for the discussions on how to straighten a warped plate.Granted 1" plate MAY NOT warp, but sucks to be you to be posting afterwards asking how to fix it!
Reply:6010 are sometimes used with structural steel, but mainly for open roots. If I understand your design correctly, they are all fillet welds. Given that and your available equipment, I would use 5/32" 7018 for everything. I would also preheat both the top and bottom plates.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Thanks guys, I picked up a fresh 10 pounder of 5/32 lincoln 7018 today, it'll be no prob to preheat steel over a little pile of charcoal; I'll just sweat it out.
Reply:i would round off that 20 inch plate base so you can roll this sucker around, idont think you gonna lift it
Reply:Yes, wheels!I have an old leaking floor jack I was planning to scavenge the steel wheels off of to put on it and clamp some kind of bent stock in the vise for a handle to wheel it about.
Reply:use a couple of gussets to help balance and prevent warpage
Reply:Your gonna need a O/A to straighten the plate after welding. I would burn a rod, then let it cool for a min. If you go balls out that plate is gonna warp like hell.Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2Bobcat 22512VSCST-280Millermatic 211Hypertherm Powemax 1000Victor O/A
Reply:20"x20"x1" with a 6x6 tube to be attached centered and vertical... Myself, I don't think the plate will pull any noticeable amount; certainly nothing that's be an issue for the application.Which, if the thought is that the plate is heavy enough to use the vise without anchoring it.Nope. Maybe for a jeweler's vise, or some light use strictly as a fixture..Last edited by denrep; 07-11-2013 at 03:30 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by akpolarisuse a couple of gussets to help balance and prevent warpage
Reply:Tack weld your tine to the plate, then put a scrap of 1/8 steel on your welding table, then center the flat plate on it. Then clamp down all 4 edges. Then weld your tube on.
Reply:Walker I had thought of doing that, basically pre warping it in opposite direction, think ill try it.
Reply:Why does the thing have to have both plates fully welded to the tube? What about just running a couple of stitch welds? No issues with heat there.-AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:Let's see the vise.After all this base fabbing talk it better be a Wilton C3 or something close. I've seen some monster vises (150#+) in heavy machine shops bolted to stands with a 3/8" plate on top.Last edited by toomanytoyzz; 07-11-2013 at 10:36 PM.
Reply:I need a stand for my vise, too - how are you planning to attach the vise to it? Are you going to drill bolt holes through that stuff? Pictures, pictures!-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Originally Posted by MDF99I'm making a vise stand for my garage shop, material is, base: 1" plate - 20" square, pedestal: 6"x6" square tube, 1/2" wall, top: round 1-3/4" thick by 10" diameterMy welders are CST280 w. 6010 5P+ rod 3/16", can get a little over 200 amps w single phase.Also have a Miller 210 w .035 dual shield.I'm thinking of preheating base and top to 250 deg, then lay in 3 passes of 6010, then cover with 7018 rod or dual shield mig. Also considering using 6010 for all of it.How would you proceed w the equipment I have? I don't weld thick plate like this typically, so trying to make it as solid as I can w preheat and multiple passes.Thanks!
Reply:Mock-up
Reply:Stand looks great in the mock up pic. Gonna have to be bolted to the floor or at least put on casters. What brand vise is that? Are the bolts all the way through the base? I sure hope so.Last edited by toomanytoyzz; 07-23-2013 at 09:29 PM.
Reply:That vise is a Ridgid; holes are drilled through top all the way just short bolts in there in pic.Looks great, but I'm not sure I would want a vise in a fixed location.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Originally Posted by RuarkLooks great, but I'm not sure I would want a vise in a fixed location.
Reply:If you have room bolting down is handy. I think it all depends what you plan on using it for and how much ''abuse'' it's gonna get. Movable for me is handy, just use a two wheel hand cart or roll it in the 10'' round flange base.
Reply:I made a vise stand for myself similar to that recently. I got the idea from this thread but I initially made it too tall. I cut it down so the top of my vise is about waist high. I used my Beta-Mig 200 to put it together. Single pass, no preheat, no gussets and at the upper end of my machine. I'm confident with it. Just go for it.
Reply:Just a thought.....modify this idea a bit and you could interchange tools.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:MDF99WeldingTake your welding procedure to the bathroom - and flush twice. Vise MountIn my experience: an anchored free-standing vise in a small shop,is a great waste of space and utility.Unless you have the work and space to sustain 'two to five' bench mounted vises, it is hard to justify a free-stander.In the trades, with repetitive big tasks, free-standers reign.In smaller shops: free-standing vises look really good, but in practice, are the least used tool per square foot in the shop; and because theyare not readily moved - perpetually encumber flow.The utility of a free-standing vise is out-weighted by the space that it wastes. MDF99 Your teeny-tiny-token vise should be bolted to a table of mass,and not to the floor.Opus
Reply:No logical reason for plate that heavy, but if you just want that "man-cave" look then go for it! A few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:44:14