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Reply:Did someone(not to be named) try to enlarge a smaller hole with a 2 flute twist bit??"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammDid someone(not to be named) try to enlarge a smaller hole with a 2 flute twist bit??
Reply:Been there done that. They used to make bits for enlarging holes. I forget how many flutes they had. I'm thinking 3 maybe 4. I haven't seen 'em in a catalog anywhere anymore."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:my wrist hurts just lookin at it
Reply:Been there, done that ( and I know better, too!) Apart from that I know a few things that make the same noise...A place I used to work had a large old Wolf drill with a pipe handle, so two people could wrestle with it. I've seen it grab and fling both operators off and then wind in the lead until it unplugged itself. The hole enlarging bits, were they called "Core" drills, four flutes from memory, I've seen them with Morse tapers for machine use but not in parallel shank."One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Do like I did when I was a kid... Use the inside of your ankle to brace it! Ouch!!
Reply:Core drills with 3 or 4 flutes used to be common and are still available, but not as easy to find as they used to be. Main purpose (hence the name) was for finishing cored holes in castings to size. Modern tool by the same name is for drilling rock/concrete. The business end is tubular and leaves a core, minimizing the quantity of material removed (lower power and force needed) and easing the induction of cutting fluid/coolant.I've rarely used anything but a bridge reamer for hole enlargement in years.Last edited by enlpck; 05-03-2009 at 09:46 PM.
Reply:Good thing that wasn't a Milwaukee hole hawg!David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I've got an old Black&Decker (as in it has a cast aluminum case with a brass tag riveted to it....old) that turns at 250 rpm that I've done that with. It also has a pipe handle to help wrap the cord up once it wrestles itself loose assuming the bit doesn't break. Also has 3/4" chuck so some of the bits are big enough they don't break.HH 187Miller Bluestar1EAHP AlphaTig 200X
Reply:Originally Posted by enlpckCore drills with 3 or 4 flutes used to be common and are still available, but not as easy to find as they used to be. Main purpose (hence the name) was for finishing cored holes in castings to size. Modern tool by the same name is for drilling rock/concrete. The business end is tubular and leaves a core, minimizing the quantity of material removed (lower power and force needed) and easing the induction of cutting fluid/coolant.I've rarely used anything but a bridge reamer for hole enlargement in years.
Reply:Originally Posted by GreyhorseI've got an old Black&Decker (as in it has a cast aluminum case with a brass tag riveted to it....old) that turns at 250 rpm that I've done that with. It also has a pipe handle to help wrap the cord up once it wrestles itself loose assuming the bit doesn't break. Also has 3/4" chuck so some of the bits are big enough they don't break.
Reply:High Lift jacks scare the daylights outta ya. Specially when the mast thingy starts bending under a full load. Mine's rated at 5000 on a good day with full sunshine, no wind, and a real good base. They do in a pinch though"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Then the stupid thing will go up, buy won't come down when you hit the rocker. Sometimes I just drive off of the thing or pull off of it. Insane"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by David RGood thing that wasn't a Milwaukee hole hawg!David
Reply:Originally Posted by David RGood thing that wasn't a Milwaukee hole hawg!David
Reply:Hmmm.So that's where I went wrong. Just yesterday I tried to enlarge a hole and buggered a good drill bit.The original hole would have been about 10mm. I took it out to 15mm or so with a twist drill bit and noticed it had a wobble. It didn't grab, but something happened. It was okay to start with. I had no idea this was a dumb thing to do.Pity. It was an expensive drill bit.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI think we're talking about the same thing The old type of core drill was a solid drill used to finish or enlarge a hole. B, and C. Hollow stem drills are for drilling deep holes. I think they call them "coolant thru" drills nowdays.Only thing that leaves a core is an annular cutter as far as I know
Reply:Neat link!!!!KING KONG'S HOLE SAW!!!!!"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by GreyhorseI've got an old Black&Decker (as in it has a cast aluminum case with a brass tag riveted to it....old) that turns at 250 rpm that I've done that with. It also has a pipe handle to help wrap the cord up once it wrestles itself loose assuming the bit doesn't break. Also has 3/4" chuck so some of the bits are big enough they don't break.
Reply:Oh!Thats gotta hurt!I have an old "maybe 30+years" Black & Decker 1/2" shovel handle drill "back from when B&D made really good quality" it even has a Jacobs chuck on it, picked it up at a garage sale needing work to the motor for $5.00, took it to a local elec motor shop that fixed it for $30.00, and that thing has so much torque, it scares the hell out of me!I was using it to drill a 1" hole with a 16" long wood bore bit, into a piece of 4x4 that was attached to a rafter in my garage, I hit a knot in the wood and the drill got away from me, knocked me off my latter and spun itself to a stop, I couldn't imagine using it to drill into metal and having it stick, I know it would cause some damage to something, most likely me! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Thanks for posting this up. I did know that using a two flute bite was dangerous when enlarging a hole. Anyone care to explain in more detail.
Reply:Originally Posted by enlpckCore drills with 3 or 4 flutes used to be common and are still available, but not as easy to find as they used to be. Main purpose (hence the name) was for finishing cored holes in castings to size. Modern tool by the same name is for drilling rock/concrete. The business end is tubular and leaves a core, minimizing the quantity of material removed (lower power and force needed) and easing the induction of cutting fluid/coolant.I've rarely used anything but a bridge reamer for hole enlargement in years.
Reply:Originally Posted by ace4059Thanks for posting this up. I did know that using a two flute bite was dangerous when enlarging a hole. Anyone care to explain in more detail.
Reply:Originally Posted by Atomik777...Hyup returned it and they even replaced the bit.
Reply:Yeah, I don't know how those guys do it... I've returned SO many things it's just unbelievable... Some I just didn't like, some I just wanted to test out and some were defective but really, those guys will replace or RETURN a single product dozens of times.It is a VERY rare thing these days to have a company stand behind ALL of their products like that.....Cheers,/Jman...
Reply:A bridge reamer is the safest way to inlarge holes using a hand drill. They are a little pricy but are great for miss aligned holes and enlarging holes using a hand drill.Dan Attached Images
Reply:Hi Guys, Just thought I would enclose a photo of the Black and Deckers big brother, I have had this Wolf drill many years and apart from a broken handle that I had to repair it's never let me down, in its previous life it did many years in a local shipyard,when stripped you can see the quality and strength that goes into building a tool that will work all day every day,just treat it with the massive respect it deserves.P.S the pipe handle screws onto the other side and it's certainly needed to control the torque on this beast. In the photo I had just given it a complete strip,clean,paint and check over,No new parts required ! tools like this would laugh a todays 12month warranty's. Cheers Gordon. Attached ImagesLast edited by gordon stephenson; 05-17-2009 at 06:32 PM.Lincoln SP-170 MigHypertherm powermax 45Lorch T220 AC/DC TigButters FM 215 synergic MigKemppi 180 adaptive mig RULES ARE FOR THE OBEDIENCE OF FOOLS AND THE GUIDANCE OF WISE MEN.
Reply:we've got a 3/4" drill that looks just like that onelast time i fetched up a drill good enough to brake something, it was the reduction gears in the drill.... and my hand was between it, and the item that stopped the spinning.......Bill BerryKeith Berry & Son Ltd.machine work, and weldingBear River Vollunteer FD
Reply:Originally Posted by David RGood thing that wasn't a Milwaukee hole hawg!David
Reply:Bridge reamer or chucking reamer is the best. But when trying to make a hole slightly biger you need to change the drill point so the angle is not so steep and slightly flatten the leading edge and get the drill spinning b4 putting it in the hole. Horsepower is not your friend here but speed is, but not too much speed and light pressure. Or brake out the cutting torchMike
Reply:I prefer bridge reamers that will run on the impact wrench. when your 30' in the air reaming one bad hole the last thing you want is a monster drill to catch and send you flying.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:44:12