Aluminum TIG - first timer

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So I am not a true "first timer" this is actually my second time with aluminum. The first ended horribly with a popped breaker and all sorts of other issues (thanks job - syncro 250 on a 50 amp breaker) So today I was able to grab a couple pieces of scrap aluminum. It's about 5/32" thick. Set amps around 170ish no foot pedal using 3/32 pure tungsten and 3/32 fill rod of unknown alloy.I was able to lay down this bead (which is actually 2 as you can see) and then about 3/4" of weld on a T joint before the breaker tripped....20130814_114659 by davidcoffman, on Flickr20130814_114654 by davidcoffman, on FlickrI think I did alright
Reply:Looks nice a nice bead, nice ripple pattern, good amount of cleaning action.  If you clean up that scrap aluminum real good with a SS wire brush and acetone, and wipe the filler with acetone, the bead will come out even cleaner/shinier.  The puddle crater at the end can be eliminated by either using a foot pedal and tapering down the amperage and adding a bit of extra filler, or setting a downslope (if available) and doing the same with the filler. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarLooks nice a nice bead, nice ripple pattern, good amount of cleaning action.  If you clean up that scrap aluminum real good with a SS wire brush and acetone, and wipe the filler with acetone, the bead will come out even cleaner/shinier.  The puddle crater at the end can be eliminated by either using a foot pedal and tapering down the amperage and adding a bit of extra filler, or setting a downslope (if available) and doing the same with the filler.
Reply:Dayam!We have another natural in the room. Takes most people more than twice the achieve that.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarLooks nice a nice bead, nice ripple pattern, good amount of cleaning action.  If you clean up that scrap aluminum real good with a SS wire brush and acetone, and wipe the filler with acetone, the bead will come out even cleaner/shinier.  The puddle crater at the end can be eliminated by either using a foot pedal and tapering down the amperage and adding a bit of extra filler, or setting a downslope (if available) and doing the same with the filler.
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrThanks! I did hit the edges on the belt sander to make for a tighter fit up, but I will try to brush them next time around. As for the cratering - I don't have foot pedal control  my employer says "you ain't got no pedal in the field, why in the h*ll should you have one in the shop" I run an older Miller Syncrowave 250 it does have a "Crater control" setting. I have played with it, and it is in the "On" position set to a few seconds. I have seen nothing noticable with it on or off. Also on a side note about the same machine,regardless of whether I have the HF switch in start or on position, it is always on. Even after arc initiation in DCEN....? any clues? it's the only rig in the shop that does it so I'm assuming it's just broke.Thank you! I actually sort of surprised myself. LOL I still have consistency issues on mild and stainless. I am actually in the middle of a large SS project mostly 1/4" stuff. See what I mean about consistency:Untitled by davidcoffman, on FlickrLOL. Thank you! I think I like aluminum more than steel at this point. I showed that piece to the powers that be after being asked if I could TIG aluminum. I told them I didn't really know, so I tried. LOL I do believe I may have stuck my foot in my mouth by doing that. There is a ton of aluminum work coming up; you can see some of it on the table in the back. Some sort of weird looking elevated platforms. All 1/8" wall Alum tubing.20130814_140319 by davidcoffman, on Flickr
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrAs for the cratering - I don't have foot pedal control  my employer says "you ain't got no pedal in the field, why in the h*ll should you have one in the shop" I run an older Miller Syncrowave 250 it does have a "Crater control" setting. I have played with it, and it is in the "On" position set to a few seconds. I have seen nothing noticable with it on or off. Also on a side note about the same machine,regardless of whether I have the HF switch in start or on position, it is always on. Even after arc initiation in DCEN....? any clues? it's the only rig in the shop that does it so I'm assuming it's just broke.
Reply:Looks damn good, dude!Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:Ask the powers to buy you a big bunch of practice alum and have at it. Then switch to stainless or steel, then switch back. Cross training will point out the intricacies of each. I have a new guy starting next week that knows nada. I will cross train him and if he is observant we both will benefit. Anyway, welcome to the wonderful world of welding alum.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:You're better than me already. Amazing beads.  You must be a natural. No pedal?  How'd you do that?TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloThe welds loo good! It's always amazing how much of a power-slave the Syncro machines are. To really rip, they need like 90A for a Syncro 250. With all that other material in house, you have a lot to get really in the groove with. Like everything else you weld or build, if you can get consistent work to do, then it's a lot easier to really learn a lot about it. And aluminum welding is a great skill to have on the resume!The HF always on thing is common with those setups. Especially on the old idealarc machines.CONGRATS!!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrSupposedly we have an old timer that can weld magnesium. I thought magnesium was flammable and could only be machined?
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrSupposedly we have an old timer that can weld magnesium. I thought magnesium was flamable and could only be machined?  Either way I've got a good selection of stuff to "play" with.
Reply:Wow no pedal, that's amazing. Keep up the work, sounds like your really working hard at it.
Reply:Magnesium is only flammable when it's in powder or shavings. So you can weld it, but if you've been grinding and left shavings about, watch out!Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrThanks Rojo!I haven't noticed any real issues with the HF being on constantly while running on DC, but when I'm beside the machine it does get a bit irritating to hear the constant evil scientist like electrocution noise  I've been utilizing my lunch break for practice since I've got this job. I started with steel, then stainless, and now playing with aluminum. The shop also stocks sheets of copper, various types of brass and bronze, some small pieces of titanium are around somewhere, and Supposedly we have an old timer that can weld magnesium. I thought magnesium was flamable and could only be machined?  Either way I've got a good selection of stuff to "play" with.
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellMagnesium is only flammable when it's in powder or shavings. So you can weld it, but if you've been grinding and left shavings about, watch out!
Reply:I will respond to every one later when I'm on the computer. Phone sucks for typing. But long story short, did a little more playing today on my 10 min break:The but weld was done with my free sample of tri-mix tungsten from DGP. Don't care for it all that much on AC :thumbdown: So I switched back to pure to run the fillet weld. All 1/8" materialSent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Looks awesome.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloCopper sucks heat in a way that is different than aluminum, and it sucks heat about 2 times as hard.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255You're better than me already. Amazing beads.  You must be a natural. No pedal?  How'd you do that?
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrSaw that from the video - are you actually dipping th tungsten into the puddle?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveNot really, but it was strange - even when the tungsten looked like it was in the puddle, it never touched the magnesium. In your pic, is that how far out you run your tungsten?  Dave J.
Reply:Dcoffman, the 24ga with 3/32 will be all right; the copper sucks heat like a vacuum cleaner. I welded a large piece a while back that was about 3ft by 1ft, and 1/8" thick. Added an artistic statue. Well, my machine is a 200A Invertec. I set it at 200A, buried my foot in the floor, and waited a good 10 seconds before I ever saw a wet spot really form. The whole thing got to smoking hot long before I had a good puddle going. And, the puddle was just that; a puddle. One puddle at a time. Not much flow, and slow going. The coolant was all but boiling over when I was done with 3 inches of welds. Welding 15oz copper sheet (About the equivalent of 24ga.) takes quite a few amps. Last time I did a leaderhead, I think I was around 80 amps on that thin material to get a real puddle going and keep it rolling along.It might go a little different with a bump switch.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrThat magnesium thing has me really wanting to try my hand at it. Looks like it would be sort of cool.