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Welding Trailer Frame With 2x2x1/8 Square Tubing

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:42:56 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I have a bit of scrap laying around and was looking for something to build so decided a trailer. Most of it is 2 x 2 x 1/8 square tubing. I was thinking to make it 10 x 6 with a top rail probably made of angle iron. It won't carry anymore than 700 pounds at one time. I was just wondering if it will be strong and safe enough, also would square tubing be okay for a cross frame? Thank You.
Reply:Enough of any size anything would be good enough.Post pics of the build! Welcome to the forum!12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:The square tube will be OK for the cross members but I wouldn't use it for the pieces that the spring hangers would weld to. I always use a minimum of 1/4" stock for that, angle if it will have rails, channel if there are no rails.
Reply:Sounds stronger than those HF trailers that are rated to carry 1100 to 1500 pounds.Square steel is the second best thing you can use to make a trailer frame.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:For 700lbs. you should be fine. I have a 14,000lb trailer and it has 3/16" wall 6x2 tubing for the main rails. 1/4" would add unnecessary weight.
Reply:You should be ok for what you want. 1/8 tube is not the best material for a trailer for a couple reasons. One is rust, I see your in Memphis and that is at the edge of the rust belt. Tubes are the worst for rust because you can't paint the inside plus that is where any salt will sit and do its thing. Some try to seal the tubes thinking that will keep the rust out, but in my experience that doesn't work well. That also traps water allowing freezing to burst the tubes. My best luck with tube on trailers is to leave it open so it can dry out inside.The other problem is that 1/8" wall tube tends to tear at high stress areas like spring hangers and the rear of the tongue. You can counter act that by adding some gussets that spread the force out over a larger section of the tube.As far as crossmembers, tube is ok, especially if the rest of the frame is tube as well.So, if I could choose the material I would not choose that, but with a little extra care in your design you can build a good trailer with what you have.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:There is an on-line trailer plan that uses 2x2x3/16 angle iron for the main rails. 2x2x3/16 has a moment of inertia of .272x2x1/8 square tubing has a moment of inertia .64.  With a top rail to add stiffness, you should be OK.As for mounting springs, You can weld a small plate to give it some added stiffness.BTW, You'll be surprised at what springs + axle + coupler + lights + wheels + tires  can cost.  Even cheap Chinese stuff could set you back $500.  The good stuff will set you back closer to $800...   If your going to spend that much, consider making the trailer perfect for what you want.   3000lbs is pretty much the maximum you can do without adding brakes.  That's a good capacity to shoot for.Search for Red Wing Trailer plans to get an idea.  These plans are supposedly engineered (or the guy would be taking a hell of a risk putting it out on the internet).  Follow the plans or at least make sure every component is an upgrade from what he put out there.Also the better American axle companies have web pages talking about how to mount the axles (in my case I used C-Channel and they suggested closing the channel at the point the axle mounts - take a look at some H frame presses and you get the idea.As for Harbor Freight trailers - they typically come with cheap tires that are rated at 45mph max.  Makes it useless for me.  Of course if the wheels fall off, the trailer is so light you can just drag it back home (shooting a few sparks).Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Thank You All! I'm gonna go ahead and try with the square and see how it goes. Now just gotta wait for it to get warm lol.. Thanks a ton and I will definitely show the build.
Reply:My trailer has 4 inch x 1/4 channel where the spring hangers attach.It carries a ton of firewood.The chassis has to be strong,light iron is OK for the rest.!/8 stock is TOO LIGHT.Built in 1964.No problems.
Reply:Originally Posted by con_fuse9There is an on-line trailer plan that uses 2x2x3/16 angle iron for the main rails. 2x2x3/16 has a moment of inertia of .272x2x1/8 square tubing has a moment of inertia .64.  With a top rail to add stiffness, you should be OK.As for mounting springs, You can weld a small plate to give it some added stiffness.BTW, You'll be surprised at what springs + axle + coupler + lights + wheels + tires  can cost.  Even cheap Chinese stuff could set you back $500.  The good stuff will set you back closer to $800...   If your going to spend that much, consider making the trailer perfect for what you want.   3000lbs is pretty much the maximum you can do without adding brakes.  That's a good capacity to shoot for.Search for Red Wing Trailer plans to get an idea.  These plans are supposedly engineered (or the guy would be taking a hell of a risk putting it out on the internet).  Follow the plans or at least make sure every component is an upgrade from what he put out there.Also the better American axle companies have web pages talking about how to mount the axles (in my case I used C-Channel and they suggested closing the channel at the point the axle mounts - take a look at some H frame presses and you get the idea.As for Harbor Freight trailers - they typically come with cheap tires that are rated at 45mph max.  Makes it useless for me.  Of course if the wheels fall off, the trailer is so light you can just drag it back home (shooting a few sparks).
Reply:Originally Posted by devenrocksSo would 3/16 be better than 1/8? Seems like such a tiny difference.
Reply:3/16" is 50% greater thickness so adds significantly more strength.
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