Full penetration 6010 vertical up?

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Trying to get full pen. I can only get good penetration when I'm filling in a hole that blew out. It seems less likely to want to blow out when I keep a super tight arc, but then I can't see it start to keyhole cause to rods in the way. Whipping? is it long arccing out of the puddle or just advancing a little forward while keeping a tight arc then back in the puddle. When I shove the rod tight in the root I can see a lot of sparks flying out the backside, is that good?10ga galv butt joint1/16" open root3/32 Lincoln 6010 5P+Lincoln 350 MP50ish ampsWhip (trying to)Back sideAnother. You can tell where I blew holes from the areas inconsistent speed, and undercut. I didn't know what to do. So I filled the hole and got the F-out before it came back.BacksideLast edited by toolbox; 08-19-2013 at 05:14 PM.
Reply:What are you welding? Plate? How thick? What are you running your 6010 at? Are you trying to weld in a groove? Land? Gap? You want to learn to do it, but we need to know WHAT you're doing in order to help.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Here is a video from Jody on 6011/6010 vertical uphill. Might help you out.
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzardgutzWhat are you welding? Plate? How thick? What are you running your 6010 at? Are you trying to weld in a groove? Land? Gap? You want to learn to do it, but we need to know WHAT you're doing in order to help.
Reply:Originally Posted by MWaldenHere is a video from Jody on 6011/6010 vertical uphill. Might help you out.
Reply:When I shove the rod tight in the root I can see a lot of sparks flying out the backside, is that good?10ga galv butt joint1/16" open root3/32 Lincoln 6010 5P+Lincoln 350 MP50ish ampsWhip (trying to)Turn your machine up to 60-65, hold your rod dead level & stick it in the gap. You want to see ALL of the sparks at the back. Should see the keyhole under the rod, go slow enough for it to fill behind you. I don't whip the root, many do.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:You can run it as a stringer bead.. I used to do it that way for overhead.Move forward in the joint and then back to the puddle and sit there for a second, go forward again, back to the puddle, etc. You don't need to step forward much, just enough to get the heat off the puddle. It should end up a pretty smooth motion when you get it down. Keep your steps even.. so don't go 1 inch forward, back, then a half inch forward, back, then 1 1/2 inches forward... if you get what I mean. Do you have a land on your bevel edges?
Reply:You need to get back to basics. From what I see you don't have joint prep, and it appears you are trying to get a root pass and a final weld in one pass. To what weld procedure are you trying to weld? What thickness is your base metal. Pipe or plate? what is the angle of your bevel? Is it beveled to a knife point, or how thick is the portion of the bevel that is left (the land)? How wide is the gap between the two pieces? What size rod are you using? A root pass has most of the sparks on the back side. If you are blowing holes turn down your amps, use smaller rod.
Reply:Just food for thought, I typically run a land similar to the diameter of the rod I'm using. Key hole it just a tad and stuff the rod walk it up till it start getting too hot, whip up to let it freeze and stuff it back in.Keep practicing bud, it'll come to you.Miller bobcat 225g  - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:With this rod you can push it into the puddle until those sparks start shooting out the backside.  This is a process that helps you get full penetration on the backside.  To weld up you need a small gap; smaller tha the rod you're using.  However, welding the 6010 downhill, especially on thinner metals, is the better option as it does not generate quite as much heat.  Like others said, everything depends on what type of material, how thick, etc.  Also, it is adviseable to place your root pass in, clean the weld and then cap it.  You will probably find yourself doing too much if you try to root and cap in one pass.Matthew MortonTexas A&M '06Logsdon Seminary '13"Who Dares Wins""AFTF""WH2PH"SA 200 (Code: 5337)TB 302CP 302 w/22A Wire FeederMillerMatic 200Miller Syncrowave 200MillerMatic 252BurnTables 4x4 CNC MachineHypertherm 65
Reply:For those that keep asking for material and machine settings, it's always been in the original post. So... How many passes for 10ga? Originally Posted by matt1morton...welding the 6010 downhill, especially on thinner metals, is the better...
Reply:Why don't you just post the weld procedure that you are trying to follow instead of making us guess how you have it set up?  Obviously if you are posting junk like this " 10ga land? I guess " you may not know what all the details even mean, so you are likely not set up right. Post up you procedure, post up a pic of your oint prep and maybe you can get some help."10ga galv butt joint1/16" open root3/32 Lincoln 6010 5P+Lincoln 350 MP50ish ampsWhip (trying)"This is not a weld procedure. If you don't have one, then at least let us know what you are trying to imitate. Do you want to go uphill, or can you go downhill? Downhill is faster, easier to learn, and you should likely learn it first, before moving on to up hill. Is this for a class, self teaching to get a job? More info needed.
Reply:make sure all the sparks are flying out the back as you whip the rod up and down when you come back down pack the weld with your rod .i run 60 amps on 3/8th plate dig at 50 1/8th 6010 rod with 1/8th gap and a little under 1/8th land .i didnt read threw this whole thing but if you are running 3/8th plate this is the money shot settings
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerWhy don't you just post the weld procedure that you are trying to follow instead of making us guess how you have it set up?  Obviously if you are posting junk like this " 10ga land? I guess " you may not know what all the details even mean, so you are likely not set up right. Post up you procedure, post up a pic of your oint prep and maybe you can get some help."10ga galv butt joint1/16" open root3/32 Lincoln 6010 5P+Lincoln 350 MP50ish ampsWhip (trying)"This is not a weld procedure. If you don't have one, then at least let us know what you are trying to imitate. Do you want to go uphill, or can you go downhill? Downhill is faster, easier to learn, and you should likely learn it first, before moving on to up hill. Is this for a class, self teaching to get a job? More info needed.
Reply:You picked something hard to start with... You need to get your heat just right so you can punch in and go. If you key hole it to much with such thin material it will open up fast! Just set you gap tight and try to find a heat that works. Also removing the galv costing about a half inch back if you can. If the coatings not uniform it will weld differently as you go around the joint.
Reply:Venture to guess that your welding uphill on 10g galvanized is more a case of practicing on available material rather then learning an actual procedure.  Can see how trying to find technique on that thin material could be considered a stepping stone....more weld time on simple 10g compared to having to prepare proper coupons.  Figure you've tried turning your amps as low as possible....found the result was that the rod would either stick or you had lack of penetration.  Have you been long arcing to preheat your start point?  This should enable you to lower your amps another 5 or more.  Feather your tack/start point.  Strike arc but long arc so that no material is deposited.  Quite often a drop of filler/splatter will fall free while long arcing.  Move ahead about 1/2", back down to about 3/8" on tack, hold momentarily, and then make contact and once bead is established physically push through as you move up.   If everything is working so far at some point you'll  have to change from a steady drag to a 'whip'.  Nothing excessive.  Just a slight motion, half a rod thickness.  Like any 6010 root, two things to watch for....too much colour below rod and then lack of progression.  Experience will dictate one will lead to the other.  Try to save it by slightly longer whip and more vertical rod angle.  Two or three whips, if not under control, break off for restart.
Reply:No one has yet to address the dangers of the OP welding on galvanized metal. I think prep to handle the galvanize would take priority over technique, then he can practice all he wishes :-)