Plasma Cutting tips

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Ok, so I have a new Hypertherm plasma cutter.  One of my first projects is to make a couple of those silhouette yard animals.  You know the type.Anyone have some good tips on pattern cutting?  I can keep the torch relatively steady, but maybe there are other ways like making a jig or using one of those steel flexible rulers.  Short of buying a CNC table, what do you do?
Reply:I have used a projector and outlined the picture in soapstone or perm marker. I have also made patterns out of cardboard that I draw around and stick on the wall of my shop for making copies. For large patterns I get refrigator boxes. Good luck and HAVE FUN!!
Reply:I use non-conductive straight edges.  Sometimes it is simply a stick trimmed to thickness on the table saw.  The thickness of the stick is made so that the shoulder of the plasma torch would ride on the wood with the tip having the correct standoff.    I never have done this personally but some people do a line drawing on regular paper then using a light coating of contact cement stick it onto the plate.  They then burn right through the paper and the material.
Reply:Originally Posted by KEENAVVI have used a projector and outlined the picture in soapstone or perm marker. I have also made patterns out of cardboard that I draw around and stick on the wall of my shop for making copies. For large patterns I get refrigator boxes. Good luck and HAVE FUN!!
Reply:I made a standoff out of a copper pipe coupling split down one side and cut at the bottom like a U. This puts the cut 1/2" from the pattern. It's held onto the torch with a hose clamp.
Reply:I have used everything from plywood, to angle iron, to the back of an old chemistry book.  It will scorch stuff, but I havent caught anything a'fire yet.  One thing you should never use...you wife's stainless bowls to make circles....bad mistake ...(use the corning ware ones instead...if you're daring )...Standard disclaimers apply.Last edited by smithboy; 12-27-2005 at 04:58 PM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I use 1/8" tub surround hardboard that can be bought at most any home improvement store as a fence.  It comes in 4' x 8' sheets and is painted white on one side.  I use a Sharpie to mark the design - if I don't like it, a quick swipe from a paper towel with solvent cleans it right off w/o touching the paint.  I then cut it out with a bandsaw or jig saw.  Just remember to adjust your outline by the width of your torch tip... - "If ya can't be handsome, ya may as well be handy!"   HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln SP125+Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:Good tips! I recently got a plasma cutter and the fact that it cuts with no resistance/feedback adds to the shaky lines...I like the tub surround idea!
Reply:Hold your Breathe!
Reply:Using a water-bath underneath whatever you are cutting will make an amazinfg difference to how much crap you have to breath in.. plus it's always fun watching balls of moten steel skip across the top of the water
Reply:I used to use luan veneer plywood....pretty cheap at the cheapo depot....for patterns that I needed to use more than a couple of times. If it was just a few parts....cardboard was the choice.I have not had to make patterns for years.....my PlasmaCam cnc table works way better than hand cutting! Now I draw the part in my computer...or scan in a drawing....take the file out to the shop on a usb mini drive (I call it "sneakernet")...fire up the Powermax45. I actually have made patterns for some friends that use their hand torches to cut repeat parts....I use the PlasmaCam and scale the size of the pattern to compensate for the offset from the edge of the torch to the edge of the arc. I usually make these patterns out of 16 or 14 ga. steel.With newer plasmas....with shielded technology....or the Hypertherm Powermax 30 with its non shilded drag capability (no sticking/restistance to drag cutting) you can do a great job using templates.....even electrically conductive ones.Jim