Alot of Pipe Cutting

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I am needing to cut 40- 6" pieces of 3x.125 tubing for a project. I have been using my chop saw but my blade wore out after 6 and it takes forever. I have an oxyfuel torch and my friend has a plasma cutter. Is there an easier way to cut these pieces?
Reply:I should add that these pieces need to be cut fairly square and need to look presentable.
Reply:3" x 1/8" wall pipe?I say a abrasive chop is the best way out of what you have to use.You should not be wearing out blades like that.I would be able to cut all of that stuff with 1 or 2 blades.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:I'd actually vote for a horizontal band saw.  Personally I don't own one big enough (or even with coolant).I have used a friends to cut exhaust pipe.   Load up pipe, turn on machine, let the weight of the cutting head do the work - while you sit around and shoot the bull.As for abrasive blades, if you are going to use a chop saw, there is a big difference in blades and durability.  Don't even bother with the Harbor Freight.   My LWS carries Walter - which I like for thin wall.  It seems to cut straighter (less uneven melting)Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:+1 on horizontal band saw, the ubiquitous 4x6 with a good blade (Diemaster II) and adjusted should be able to cut through a stack of 3 (triangular) in one shot, dry.UNLESS...I am talking mild steel above, but based on your consumption of the abrasive wheel on the chop saw, I am not so sure, what is material?Even if its a "mystery" metal (steel) that had been case hardened, that abrasive disc should last way longer than 6 cuts.
Reply:Power hacksaw.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshop3" x 1/8" wall pipe?I say a abrasive chop is the best way out of what you have to use.You should not be wearing out blades like that.I would be able to cut all of that stuff with 1 or 2 blades.
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobba big tubing or pipe cutter, just put the pipe in a tri stand and cut away, nice clean cut with squared sides..http://www.harborfreight.com/no-3-pi...ter-62244.html heres a cheap one from harbor freight, if you want better buy a rigid brand
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopThat tool is a joke.
Reply:Im a newish member here, but will throw my two cents in the hat....From previous projects ive done an abrasive chop will travel to one side unless I moved really slow with it. The mess it causes is another topic. I found it dose cut squariih and on a piece of 1 1/2 square its out maybe a 16th-32nd of an inch. I would like to buy a 4x6 bandsaw myself, but the prices up here in Ontario compared to the Harbour Freight units one can purchase in the states is atronomical (side note:anyone have a hook up on a HF band saw they can get to me on my side of the border please?) Hit up you tube and check out a few vids on these units..with a little work it looks as if they will be the right choice. A Ridgid pipe cutter may work for you, but will likely need to be touched up anyways (my experience) The ends tend to mushroom so to spaeak. A quick filing can get it back presentable though. For that many pieces id invest in a HF 4x6 and do the ol trail and error with the set up. Good luck with your project.
Reply:Pidge try Busy Bee tools. I would also go for a band saw. Unless it's stainless. Stainless seems to eat cutting wheels and is hard on bandsaw blades.Miller 180SDLincoln weld pak 180Hobart 250ciMill Lathe
Reply:band saw pipe threader would work, too.
Reply:Thanks MNRJohnson, I do know of the place your taliking about. Same prices +/- Princess Auto. Off topic..MNR?? I fish alot
Reply:Not MNR it wont let me use an & symbol in my user name.Miller 180SDLincoln weld pak 180Hobart 250ciMill Lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshop3" x 1/8" wall pipe?I say a abrasive chop is the best way out of what you have to use.You should not be wearing out blades like that.I would be able to cut all of that stuff with 1 or 2 blades.
Reply:Originally Posted by PidgeIm a newish member here, but will throw my two cents in the hat....From previous projects ive done an abrasive chop will travel to one side unless I moved really slow with it. The mess it causes is another topic. I found it dose cut squariih and on a piece of 1 1/2 square its out maybe a 16th-32nd of an inch. I would like to buy a 4x6 bandsaw myself, but the prices up here in Ontario compared to the Harbour Freight units one can purchase in the states is atronomical (side note:anyone have a hook up on a HF band saw they can get to me on my side of the border please?) Hit up you tube and check out a few vids on these units..with a little work it looks as if they will be the right choice. A Ridgid pipe cutter may work for you, but will likely need to be touched up anyways (my experience) The ends tend to mushroom so to spaeak. A quick filing can get it back presentable though. For that many pieces id invest in a HF 4x6 and do the ol trail and error with the set up. Good luck with your project.
Reply:Thanks for the input. Ive been using some blades that were given to me so i'm not sure what quality they are. I may try a known quality blade and im sure that it will work fine.
Reply:There is a great variety of chop saw blades.  I personally prefer Walter.  What you are looking for is a relatively narrow blade.  The thick import blades tend to glaze more then you increase pressure and they shift location as mentioned.  A high quality thin blade will stay on track.  Thick blades also need more power overheating your motor.  After each cut run your saw full speed for five to ten seconds.  The motor will be able to ventilate before you shut down.  If you shut down and leave the saw immediately after a cut the heat in the motor builds up and cooks the motor windings shortening its life.  I have rarely seen an abrasive chop saw used every day in an industrial environment last more than a year.
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechmanThere is a great variety of chop saw blades.  I personally prefer Walter.  What you are looking for is a relatively narrow blade.  The thick import blades tend to glaze more then you increase pressure and they shift location as mentioned.  A high quality thin blade will stay on track.  Thick blades also need more power overheating your motor.  After each cut run your saw full speed for five to ten seconds.  The motor will be able to ventilate before you shut down.  If you shut down and leave the saw immediately after a cut the heat in the motor builds up and cooks the motor windings shortening its life.  I have rarely seen an abrasive chop saw used every day in an industrial environment last more than a year.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Pidge: a lot of problems that people have with abrasive saws is that they do not set up the saw correctly so the blade cuts correctly.fence not in the right place, glaze the blade so they push harder and make the blade drift.usually the #1 culprit is not adjusting the fence so that the blade comes down on top of the material. They just leave the fence where it comes set from the factory.
Reply:Buy good blades, or a bandsaw, or a good 1 wheel pipe cutter.
Reply:Makita chop saw blades are very good too and last longer than Walter for less money. Walter might cut slightly faster but I think Makita gives about the best bang for the buck. They don't normally gall up but if they do, cut a piece of flat bar standing up to clean them up. Although I don't recommend it, I've held a piece of flat bar on the blade for a few seconds while cutting another piece to clean it up. Another thing you can do is not cut all the way through with one cut. When you get about 3/4 of the way through, stop and turn the piece so you're just making a vertical cut on one side instead of cutting to the bottom that gets wider.
Reply:Before the band saw we used the abrasive saw for anything that would fit. I would say that cheap blades are the ops problem. A good blade should go right through .125 wall pipe. Usually I never ran into problems till I cut 3/8 or 1/2" thick stuff or really wide cuts where you have a lot of blade surface on the work pieceMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Yes, bandsaw. Pretty much every sin gle thread I see asking what to use for cutting "this" gets the reply "bandsaw"...12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveMakita chop saw blades are very good too and last longer than Walter for less money. Walter might cut slightly faster but I think Makita gives about the best bang for the buck. They don't normally gall up but if they do, cut a piece of flat bar standing up to clean them up. Although I don't recommend it, I've held a piece of flat bar on the blade for a few seconds while cutting another piece to clean it up. Another thing you can do is not cut all the way through with one cut. When you get about 3/4 of the way through, stop and turn the piece so you're just making a vertical cut on one side instead of cutting to the bottom that gets wider.Pretty sure the guy with the chop saw would be home with beers long before the bandsaw guy is done, unless you do some serious stack cutting.  metal that thin will want a pretty fine pitch blade on a band saw, on the other hand the hot saw is gonna burr up some.Experience is something you get right after you need it
Reply:Good point Fred with the "burrs" I have limited experience with a band saw cutting metal, but the finish is much nicer and less if no post prep work is key. Pidge
Reply:In the old days, a hacksaw, a good blade and a sharp eye would do it.  If you don't want to splurge for a band saw or don't like the mess of an abrasive blade, you might consider a reciprocating saw or a portable band saw.  Lennox makes good metal cutting blades for all three of those ideas.I just poked around on the world wide inter-web and found that Rigid makes a power tubing cutter.  Cut a 6" sched 40 pipe in about 30 seconds.  Schweet!  https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/258xl-power-pipe-cutter
Reply:+1 on what Welder Dave said about rotating the piece after cutting part way thru it.  If you cut pipe without rotating it, you will wear the blade out cutting the bottom of the pipe and the cut will be much faster if you rotate.  I normally cut about 3/4 way thru, let the blade stop while still in the kerf then rotate the pipe and restart the cut.
Reply:Jake292 - Manual production with results. Originally Posted by Jake292I am needing to cut 40- 6" pieces of 3x.125 tubing for a project . . .
Reply:What if you have a welding rig or you have to work outside? How are you going to lug a bandsaw around? Abrasive or metal blade chop saws work great if used properly with the right blade.
Reply:12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
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Reply:I think a chop saw would be a lot faster for multiple cuts and the porta-band is going to get heavy after a while.
Reply:12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829