Small stick electrodes:

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Where would a guy go to get very small,(1/16") electrodes? I have some very thin steel screening sheet on the air intake to a combine needing sectioned/replaced and the entire frame is hot dipped after welding. I'm wanting to get a rod to burn into this but will require low current. I've tried to mig with my small machine and can vaporize the perforated sheet and not burn into the support frame. The original was very large resistance spot welds but they're not holding either.Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:My local hardware store sells 6013 and 7014 down to 1/16" - I'd try those type of stores.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:thanks Dave and I certainly will. If I can't get something very small, I'll weld up flat washers to the frame and spot the screen to them but I'm concerned about unbalancing the thing. I wouldn't think a guy whom purchase a 330K combine would worry too much about a 1K filter screen but people always surprise me when it comes to money.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:If you have a Harbor Freight near they have them, and seem to work OK.I used them before I bought a MIG.
Reply:Northern tool also carries 1-16 6013, 6011 and 7014.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DNorthern tool also carries 1-16 6013, 6011 and 7014.
Reply:Since you mentioned balance, I assume you are talking about the large rotating screen in front of the radiator. If welds aren't holding well, I wonder if small copper rivets and washers would be better? Sounds like pop rivets would have too much material to catch dust and chaff, although if the expanded part was to the inside and using washers, they might work as well.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Yes, it is the rotating screen and quite a bit of weight to it. The combine is a Gleaner, (not cheap) and the owner got it into some tree limbs. The whole rotating assembly is bent but he only wanted a section of the screen replaced:About 1/2 of the factory spot welds are broken free but I don't know if it's failure on the manufacturer level, or the impact damage as there is no real rhyme to the breakage.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Maybe spend a few bucks and get a tig set up for the stick machine ??
Reply:How about JB weld or a good epoxy like Devcon?                                       MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:You got your hands full there. I had a repair like that once and I made a small frame around the screen edge and epoxied it and clamped it real good. Job never came back, so I guess it held. Problem with that screening is you can melt it with a lighter. Even the stainless ones if you stay there a little longer. Stick welding, I wouldn't waste your time. Just my opinion bud.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Yes, I've got .025 Lincoln L-56 wire in that mig and cannot touch it at all without it vaporizing. I do have a couple of kits of stuctural adhesive, (epoxy) I'll embed the screen into if needed. I think I could abrade with either a 16, or 24 grit wheel to gain acceptable "tooth" for he adhesive to grab and may have to go that route.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Cool bud. Think that's your best bet. Iv'e been in your situation, and I don't say uncle very often when it comes to welding. But sometimes ya gotta give in and just say it.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I got some from mcmaster years ago.  They don't work to bad if your machine will run stable that low.   http://www.mcmaster.com/#welding-rods/=vanly1
Reply:Brazing or silver solder does have its uses."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Thanks for help guys. I brought up with the owner about using an adhesive and actually brought up silvering the thing into place also. After thinking about it for a couple of minutes, he's decided to turn it into his farm insurance and let them replace it complete. I really think the whole assembly has been bent out of whack and the shaft bearings that support this thing would be short lived. I doubt there is any kind of deductible but I really didn't ask.I'm pretty hard headed and reluctant to throw in the towel also but it was hard to even think about trying to weld this thing.Thanks again,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I've fixed a few similar set-ups.Epoxy is the way to go. Tig might work, but not really worth the trouble. You can also use light gauge SS wire and lace the patch in to the surrounding screen.Mr. HE
Reply:Agreed on what others have said in that I believe that the screen will run away from the weld puddle just as fast as you strike an arc, even with 1/16. I have a fireplace screen that I am installing into a set of doors now and tried tig a smaple piece and it EVAPORATED before a pool could be formed, mainly because the base metal is 1/8" thick. I'm going with 10/24 threaded holes and calling it done. The #10 screw should pass through one of the holes in the screen with a little work and a fender washer to increase the surface area of the pinch point. However, your project will endure much more torture doing it's every day job.. Good luck!-Niche
Reply:Should find him a used one off a John Deere... give that tinny looking thing some color!250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Before I bought mig machine I used 1/16 electrodes occasionally. The first ones I bought from lws for way too much money.I later found  some 6013 at HF for much cheaper. They worked fine.(I was making short welds on thin gauge steel machine guards.)Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Copper belt rivets would fix that.Forget epoxy.Copper rivets come in different lengths,The burrs are about the size of a nickle coin.
Reply:Braze itMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Pop rivets?