Lincoln saf-300

admin

I have a yellow lincoln saf-300 stick welder on a trailer. Runs and welds amazing. Was wondering what it's worth, thinking about selling it.
Reply:
Reply:nice looking rig. thats a 68 i believe, where im at in canada that would go from 1000-1600 pending how well it runsCentury 88amp 110v migCentury 100, 110migPowcon200smThermal Arc 140 migThermal Arc Fabricator 211i
Reply:Thank you sir
Reply:that is one neat machine!didn't know they made a cc/cv SA till i saw yoursbosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:I'm pretty sure it was special made for department of energy Nevada.. saw one looking around on Google which was identical, it was the doe nevada (same as this one with the 110 volt plugs) and guy was asking $6500. This thing is awesome used it once last year as a generator to run a 4.5" grinder while doing a fence. And have done a couple welds with it. I suck at stick welding and even my welds looked good
Reply:It's certainly rare and being CC/CV should be worth a fair bit to the right person. Be nice to see a close up of the entire front panel.
Reply:I never seen or heard of one of those machines. When it comes to selling engine drives. Location, location, location. With you being on the top end of the oil patch, I’ll bet that machine will sell high. Don’t let it go too cheap! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Still trying to deside if I want to sell it or keep it.. could start my own mobile welding thing, but need to get good at stick... Or sell it and get a Miller 350p and sell my snap on Ya212
Reply:I wonder what Lincoln was thinking when they used the "F" designation?  Does anyone know if the SAM (Multi-process) was the replacement model?
Reply:KEEP THAT MACHINE! Looks like a big yellow gold mine in my eyes! Stick is very very easy to learn. If you were in south Mississippi I would want to see it and I could show you how to weld with it. Dang wish I could have gotten a hand me down like this!
Reply:Got it off an auction sale a year ago for $1800
Reply:I just need to practice with it.. might try tonight
Reply:Im headed to an auction may 8th and 9th. They have 8 all different models. SA200, 250, 300, 400. Then they have some Red-D-Arc machines 250 or 300 I think. cant remember. Going to try and snag me one or two depending on how high they go. Im sure I wont "need" the 400 but it is CC/CV from what the add said, but I want it lol. So it could be a possibility. Definitely try to start learning with it man. You bought it with the intentions apparently. All you need now is time, motivation and material and your off to the races. I promise when I get mine I will be fabricating for friends. Odd jobs. I have had too many people who know I am a welder wanting something fixed or built. I have to tell them I don't have the equipment yet. Only one way to solve that problem is to buy it and keep it!
Reply:I use mig for 99.9% of the stuff I make. I will practice on some scrap tonight if I get a chance and will use it for fixing a broken weld on a horse trailer.. And and old farm disk
Reply:You will be fine if your welding GMAW with those beads. You competent in knowing what your doing. Its a new process you will just have to get use to. If you have the motivation to conquer the machine you can do anything with it. Start with a scrap piece of plate and run stringer beads with 6010 if you have any. 6011 will work but I don't suggest that rod to anybody. I personally am not a fan of the trash rod. It has its purpose welding through heavy scale, rust and paint. You want to practice though. Whip the rod back and forth from the weld puddle. I am almost sure you use a whip and pause method from the looks of your beads there.
Reply:Thanks sir. I just need to practice.. I have done a little but not a lot of stick, just don't have the practice. But I will start playing with it.. And hopefully I can get decent at it.
Reply:You WILL get better at it. determination. You bought the welder with the mindset of using it. And that seems to be a beast of a welder lol. I would try my best to get my money out of it  build a couple fire pits or fix a neighbors tractor with it. both $100 pops. do that 16 more times over a year or two and you got your initial investment back as well as learned a new skill that will stay with you forever. May get a bit rusty at it but its still there.
Reply:Yea I would like to be able to go fix stuff for farmers or even my day job pay me to use my machine when we have a sprayer or some other equipment break in the field and they pay someone else to come do a half *** job that breaks the next day :/
Reply:here are a few things I build and sell
Reply:I can't find 6010 in town, but they have E6011, 6013, 7018.
Reply:7018 is a great rod to practice with. It is a drag rod. strike your arc and let it do its thing. Depending on the joint fit up your practicing with whether it be a fillet weld, groove or lap joint you might have to work on a side to side motion to tie your sides in to both base metals. Vertical will take you a little time to pick up, but you will need to work on a weave technique. It is a almost a tight Z pattern progressing your way upward. if it is burning too hot you will know. The metal will just fall back on you and create a large mountain. This means turn it down 10-20 amps That is some nice work your doing so far welding! keep it up! I personally have never picked up a 6013. So don't get me to lying about that rod. 6011 will be ok to start practicing whipping your bead and stacking them. Even though some people say it is not a whip rod. I beg to differ. You might want to try looking into them ordering you a small box of 6010 5p+. They will burn oh so much cleaner and give you a much nicer bead appearance than 6011.Another thing. 7018 has a higher tensile strength than 6010. If you are repairing any farm equipment. You will first grind, prep whatever and weld your first pass with 6010. Then brush the weld off and come back with a 7018 rod to cover it up. This will make the piece you have welded much stronger compared to just a 6010 weld.Last edited by AndrewDavenport89; 04-22-2015 at 04:54 PM.
Reply:Thank you Andrew. I will do a little practicing then weld a broken weld on a horse trailer using either 6011 or 6013.. then the disk I will bevel the best I can do a 6011 root and 7018 cap
Reply:Only 104 hours on the machine
Reply:$1000 + shipping? lol is that what you just said?Funny guy
Reply:Had to bring it to work and do some welding on a cracked cast iron 3" t on the liquid fertilizer stand. Did a 6011 root pass and covered with 7018.Feel free to leave pointers, first actual stick weld I have done. I was getting a a few pin holes, i don't know if it was from having some air pressure inside or if it was from being cast.
Reply:Shouldn't have used 6011. Preheat until red. Cool for split second by c air and use 7018 only. Or a 308 stainless to mild steel rodGreat try though! For first time. At least you weren't scared to give it a shot
Reply:Thank u sir
Reply:309 is for stainless to mild steel. Cast iron can be a crap shoot to weld.
Reply:^^ Thx welder dave. I get those two backwards often for some reason.
Reply:Buy a LN-25 better than any air cooled welder CV/CC too! Paint it up.
Reply:Buy a box of 1/8 E-7014 for practice. Then 7018 & 6010 5p + use 1/8 to learn.