357t6 aluminum engine block?

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bought a engine block with the side knocked out. anyone got any experiance on welding these up, which rod to use and any tips is usefull. thanks
Reply:We need to see what and where.Pics.!!!!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Hello and welcome.As Zap said, we really need more information. The more we know about the problem the better we can help. We'd need to see the damage and know what equipment and skills you have. Member Castweld here has done a number of engine repairs on alum heads and so on. Hopefully he will chime in if you provide enough info and he's not buried in work at the moment.Alum welding of any sort is not easy and requires a fair amount of expensive equipment. This won't be a DIY job most likely unless you have a fair amount of hood time under your belt welding alum and have access to the right equipment..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:been welding aluminum for a  couple years with a lincoln precision tig 225. it has only busted the side between the main webs on a bb mopar. not into the water jacket or anything. will try and get a pic.
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Reply:OH BOY! Inside the block isn't looking to good either, and that crack isn't helping matters none. I would have to see it in person and really go through it. Can you send a few more pics, inside and out? Anything is fixable but blah blah blah. You know the rest.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I would just walk away..Cracks thru the 4 bolt webs is NO GOOD AT ALL!!!For what it would take to weld/align bore/re-machine the webs..it just 'aint worth it.And this is just from what we can see in 1 pic.Sorry man.It's over....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:And from a second look....This has been "Fixed?" once before..Look at the back of the block..Right side inside..The block and pan rail was done once before..Probably done wrong and that led to the latest "BOOM!!!!"...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:so what rod do you do you use on 357 aluminum. i have a buddy in the machine shop, so thats not a problem. it does need 3 new sleeves. i just got to hold the oil in. i am not walking away from a $4000 block over a little work.
Reply:he run it out of oil is what kicked the rod out!!
Reply:Take a video of that unit. This kind of thing makes my head spin. FUN ! It's do-able. Got a milling machine or free access ?It reminds me of Sonny Laprads drag car shop(Death and destruction racing team) in the seventies."Judy, go get some good weed and pick up some Henry McKenna. This here's an all nighter ! "Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Sorry buddy, it's over! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by leeiveyhe run it out of oil is what kicked the rod out!!
Reply:Originally Posted by leeiveyso what rod do you do you use on 357 aluminum. i have a buddy in the machine shop, so thats not a problem. it does need 3 new sleeves. i just got to hold the oil in. i am not walking away from a $4000 block over a little work.
Reply:You gotz it Pancake ! If it aint fixable, it aint f'n broke !Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeFrom what I see thus far you need to cut all of that chit out right to, and above that water jacket and over to the Mopar emblem, and regroup. The vibration will kick your asz any other way.
Reply:Mopar?  They're made by World/Bill Mitchell.  They don't like phone tech, want you to email 'em. http://www.theengineshop.com/customer_service/Too bad it's not a Keith Black, Ken Black is a good dude and will often call you on the phone after you E-mail him.  S/F....Ken M
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterDon't get the wrong idea here my friend..This has to be done RIGHT...not just to hold oil in..Low oil don't produce this result without many many RPM'S thrown in..There is probably way more wrong with this that you don't see now but once you get into it all those gremlins will be let out then its a whole newTrust me on this.We have windowed many blocks..Some we save others get the boot....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by EchoSixMikeMopar?  They're made by World/Bill Mitchell.  They don't like phone tech, want you to email 'em. http://www.theengineshop.com/customer_service/Too bad it's not a Keith Black, Ken Black is a good dude and will often call you on the phone after you E-mail him.  S/F....Ken M
Reply:Lo siento. I haven't touched a real race car in almost 30 years.Chit. I haven't even seen a traffic light in over ten !.I bet you don't even use Mallory Dual points any more !OK Hadn't been THAT long. Yuckin' Fuppies Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:never mind i will fiqure it out myself.
Reply:I think 4043 would be the filler. Don,t think you have enough machine to pull the welding off though. it will also take a very specific weld procedure. I think you will need to re-heat treat after welding. Then as other have said a lot of machine work to restore the block and crank caps to the correct position. All the repairs probably more then the block is worth.IMHO Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by leeiveynever mind i will fiqure it out myself.
Reply:I think something that the OP is overlooking, with that much damage to a block especially aluminum there is hairline cracking all over it I am sure. Don't waste your time trying to fix this, it's much done
Reply:Keep us posted.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been CowboysOriginally Posted by leeiveynever mind i will fiqure it out myself.
Reply:Well, thats what slinging a rod out the side of the block looks like, I've done that before a couple times myself.I can tell you a Lincoln Precision Tig 225 will not be enough machine... I would think your only chance to fix it would be to call a reputable sprint car engine shop, their not going to be familiar with that particular model of block. But they repair a lot of aluminum heads and blocks that look useless when brought in, I've seen heads literally broke in half put back in service.. I've seen blocks and heads with the sides blown completely out of them completely repaired and put back in service.. The problem is specifically where that block is broke..., It's going to cost you a lot to get it fixed either way, from repairing the broken section, remachining bolt holes, the surfaces where the main caps sit, line boring, and pressure testing and such, it's going to be expensive, and your going to need more than a PT225, I would guess a large oven and 350 amps.. The good thing is the webs might not be effected that much..  Initially I thought they might be cracked into the webs but that block isnt configured like the old style blocks, its like the newer LS style bottom ends, but they will still distort and welding them will just make it worse.I would find a sprint car engine builder, and let him look it over..  Whats your general location?Last edited by brucer; 12-29-2013 at 05:45 PM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:oh yea right, keep you posted, so you tell me how stupid this idea was. i think i will just delete my account and be done here
Reply:I'd use A356 filler first choice 4043 second, where break is shouldn't make a bunch of difference. It is going to take a oven and a 350 degree pre and post heat. And as said before you will need more amps- 300 will do it but 350 would be better. It will take a bunch of machine work to get it usable but still cheaper than a new block. I'd make that repair and guarantee it.PeterEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:This got me thinking of the Dodge boys from Wayne County speed shop..Miller 250DX HTP 221 DV AC/DCHenrob O-A Miller 180 MigMiller 150 Inverter   Hobart 10,000 Welder-Generator   Have a good day!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by powerThis got me thinking of the Dodge boys from Wayne County speed shop..
Reply:Originally Posted by brucerThe last I heard they shut the doors several years ago.
Reply:Originally Posted by powerOh ya been closed for along....time. Just seeing the cracked Mopar block got me thinking of the old days of Scott and Daryl
Reply:Originally Posted by leeiveylol, yea they had some busted up didnt they. this one was more self inflicted when he run it out of oil, lol
Reply:Originally Posted by leeiveyoh yea right, keep you posted, so you tell me how stupid this idea was. i think i will just delete my account and be done here
Reply:The old fuel/alky match race guys used to "fix" worse than that in the pits....but they just accepted they were just getting one or two more passes from it and it would grenade again, often as not from something elseI'd see what World recommends for filler, they built the silly thing.  S/F....Ken M
Reply:Originally Posted by turkIf cast weld says it can be fixed, then I take that for gospel. Just because zap and some of us others don't think it is feasable doesn't mean you can't do this. I would be very interested in seeing your attempt, and hearing your thoughts afterwards
Reply:I have welded BMW blocks before where the motor mount was broken off from a crash......The BMW  aluminum welds really nice. That being said I have to ask how your block will weld?  Unless it lends itself to some really clean welds...Also since its a four bolt application what kind of use is intended for it?  If that block welds nice I wouldn't hesitate to tackle that job.....Just die grind the cracked areas deep and weld it up......You have two good main bolts in your cap that should keep things aligned.....The hole can be repaired easily enough......The block is junk so your not losing anything but time....  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:by no means a motorhead BUT what about those gouges in the opposite wall. could maybe have hairline cracks or general weakening from impact? is this some one of a kind hard to find block?i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderby no means a motorhead BUT what about those gouges in the opposite wall. could maybe have hairline cracks or general weakening from impact? is this some one of a kind hard to find block?
Reply:Originally Posted by brucerThat is a valid point,  If it were mine I would take a die grinder and smooth down and slick up all the nicks and gouges to get rid of any sharp corners.. The current sharp edges would be stress points, just waiting to crack..
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderby no means a motorhead BUT what about those gouges in the opposite wall. could maybe have hairline cracks or general weakening from impact? is this some one of a kind hard to find block?
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CI have welded BMW blocks before where the motor mount was broken off from a crash......The BMW  aluminum welds really nice. That being said I have to ask how your block will weld?  Unless it lends itself to some really clean welds...Also since its a four bolt application what kind of use is intended for it?  If that block welds nice I wouldn't hesitate to tackle that job.....Just die grind the cracked areas deep and weld it up......You have two good main bolts in your cap that should keep things aligned.....The hole can be repaired easily enough......The block is junk so your not losing anything but time....