Vert Test practice..Comments WANTED & Welcome

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Nothin like jumpin right in...3/4 " CR plate ..45dg included...1/8 lincoln 7018... Everlast 160sth @ 110amps for root..(my little inverter & 6010's dont play well)..Hence the crap from the other pics....Took about 8 rods & heat ranges all over the board to FINALLY figure that out..LOL  ...(Dam Rookies)..ANYWAY...My very first weave & vert stringers.( did I mention I HATE stringers)..I'm gona figure this S*#* out if it drives me nuts.ER..LOL...ANY tips are surley welcome..Fire away gang... Attached Images
Reply:You did good for your first vertical, looks like you could use some more heat and hold the sides a little longer to keep the beads flat.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Well, since you only been doing this since the beginning of the month, I'm thinking when you watched and talked to other welders over the years you were really paying attention. Won't take you long.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Not too bad for starting out at all.For weaving, try to make your weaves closer together and quicker, pausing slightly on the ends.For example, lets say it takes you 10 "weaves" back and forth for a 2 inch section (pulling numbers out of nowhere).Move faster, pause slightly on the ends, and try to put in 15-20 weaves in the same section.This is a pretty crude example, but instead of this:Try for something like this:At least that's what worked for me passing my 3G stick cert. My one instructor liked to run big weaves, but whenever I tried that, it always left me with small creases and dips in the weld where slag would get strapped.The idea is to carry less metal, with more passes, and form a tighter weave. Fills in much easier and cleaner IMO.Last edited by Steve French; 02-14-2014 at 04:20 PM.
Reply:You need MORE heat.
Reply:I see this a lot, really don't understand it.  I'm not throwing stones here.It seems that most video demonstrations, and apparently school procedures, use heavy plate for teaching uphill.  It's simply not real world for most people.Would seem to me that learning should take place on thinner material where speed, heat, burnthough, and control, are problems to deal with.  Would be a better way to cover all the anticipated problems.  I'd bet that most fabrication will generally involve thinner material when the student finds work somewhere.It's pretty easy to blast away on 1/4"+ plate without worrying about burnthrough, a common problem when running uphill on 3/16 or thinner.Start with smaller electrodes which are easier to control, then carry the principles to the larger dia. electrodes.  3/32 is a good starter, and will probably be the rod of choice for most fabricating utilizing the most common structural shapes.Just my 2 cents I guesss.  Based on the fact that most of what I do involves metal 1/2", or less, thick.  And I do fairly medium to heavy duty farm fabrication/repair.You really don't have to drag out the 1/8 rod till you start working with plate 1/4" or thicker.Last edited by farmersamm; 02-15-2014 at 08:28 AM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by mud dobber(my little inverter & 6010's dont play well)
Reply:I go along with FARMERSAMM.  Not to be offensive, it looks like your welding in a pretty area. Might want to consider buying a couple of the harbor freight welding blankets and maybe some 4'x4' sheets of  masonite to lay down to protect that concrete.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammIt seems that most video demonstrations, and apparently school procedures, use heavy plate for teaching uphill.  It's simply not real world for most people.
Reply:Oh, and why are you weaving your fill passes?
Reply:The practice was on 3/16..When I got comfortable, I tried my hand at the actual plate size there gona throw at me when I test...Kinda hard to guess bead size & height on a plate less than what your gona test on, NO???An no offence taken farmer..The title did ask for critique from real weldors seeins how I js been doin this a week or so.... I'm not goin to school or takin any weldin classes...What I know is from watchin vids & watchin the REAL weldors I've been fortunate enough to work with the last 35-40 yrs...Toolmaker/machinist by trade...But I've ALWAYS thought this welding stuff was COOL as SH**..SOOO ..Now I'm gona try it..No reason they get to have all the fun..LOL Originally Posted by farmersammI see this a lot, really don't understand it.  I'm not throwing stones here.It seems that most video demonstrations, and apparently school procedures, use heavy plate for teaching uphill.  It's simply not real world for most people.Would seem to me that learning should take place on thinner material where speed, heat, burnthough, and control, are problems to deal with.  Would be a better way to cover all the anticipated problems.  I'd bet that most fabrication will generally involve thinner material when the student finds work somewhere.It's pretty easy to blast away on 1/4"+ plate without worrying about burnthrough, a common problem when running uphill on 3/16 or thinner.Start with smaller electrodes which are easier to control, then carry the principles to the larger dia. electrodes.  3/32 is a good starter, and will probably be the rod of choice for most fabricating utilizing the most common structural shapes.Just my 2 cents I guesss.  Based on the fact that most of what I do involves metal 1/2", or less, thick.  And I do fairly medium to heavy duty farm fabrication/repair.You really don't have to drag out the 1/8 rod till you start working with plate 1/4" or thicker.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPReally? That's strange my Everlast PowerArc 200 does really well with 6010. Like the others said, turn it up!
Reply:Guys..Keep in mind..I've MAYBE been doin this a week or so...I'm playin around..Tryin to duplicate  what I've seen on video's and read online....Basiclly ..Its PLAY TIME for me....I cant fix it if I don't know whats broke ,Right??  Here's the 2 of the first 3 pipe welds I've ever atempted....Short shiny one..MY FIRST..The second where I managed to wrap the pipe is the 3rd..( I was holdin the pipe with my left hand & weldin with my right)....Like I said I'm just seein what I can do...When something doesn't turn out like i think it should...I re think my procedure......YEA YEA I know...Blew a hole in the first one...HEY my fitter sucked ...SOO  ..I fired his a**...LOLLast edited by mud dobber; 02-19-2014 at 07:06 AM.
Reply:Yea Thanks Squirmy & minnesota...I have been weldin COLD & SLOW..My thought has been keep it consistant & pretty...Burn in, Undercut & fusion issues I can worry about when I get confident with my ability....I actually cranked it up to 135 to fill that..It burned in nice but did undercut a tad..I think thats because I was movin faster to keep up & wasn't WATCHIN or waitin for the tie in....I just wanted to keep it from saggin.( to me..Thats a fail)..The plate test (3 & 4) should be easy to get from what I'm seein after a week & about 25 lbss a rod..I was scared to death of tryin this...But hey...Its not nearly as bad as I thought..Actauly Im wantin to do pipe.....I think thats COOL..I bought a couple pieces from the junkyard yesterday when I got the junk to make a steady stand....I got a pic or two of the First ever pipe welds ( 1/8 7018 hobarts @ 135amps )up a bit in the posts I think..That was suprisingly easy after the first one...Wata you guys think????  Thanks MD Originally Posted by SquirmyPugYou did good for your first vertical, looks like you could use some more heat and hold the sides a little longer to keep the beads flat.
Reply:Originally Posted by mud dobberCEP...Tell me ....How many ports does your PA 200 have???  3??  And would one of them be marked 6010 by any chance????LOL..I WAS gona buy the 300..Adj.hot start & Dig...I opted for the everlast 160 STH with the High freq tig option and paid with 6010 preformance
Reply:Originally Posted by mud dobberWata you guys think????  Thanks MD
Reply:That was exactly my intention C....Maybe it would be a good idea to point you to my original post...NOOB...Welding a WEEK...Im no pro...And as soon as I get this raty *** garbage pipe cut & beveled..I''l post some pics....Gota strange notion tho...If it was ex-rayd & flaw-less youd find something to rag on it about....LMAO...Im not here for a pissin contest..No interest in that mentality either....Thanks for your input tho...I love it when people let you kno to stear clear of um right from the get go....Job well done slick....No offence intended of course. LOL
Reply:Originally Posted by mud dobberI''l post some pics....Gota strange notion tho...If it was ex-rayd & flaw-less youd find something to rag on it about....LMAO...Im not here for a pissin contest..No interest in that mentality either....Thanks for your input tho...I love it when people let you kno to stear clear of um right from the get go....Job well done slick....No offence intended of course. LOL
Reply:The PowerARC 160STH is not a 6010 welder, though it handles 6011 reasonably well and for practice, it'll work in place of 6010.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Thanks lugweld..Thats exactly what I was wantin to hear...I wanted the 250 EX...saw Jody demo it...( the 160sth also)..They were gona give me a great deal on the analog....But being impatient as usual...Couldn't wait another week for the rest of the money..I just had to have something NOW....But I realy like this unit...(Not that my noob a** would no good from bad)..It seem to be workin for me..Did an overhead today..1st one..used the new stand & what a difference getn to steady on somethin...I been lookin for flat..I see now..Heat & get movin...I liked it..Thanks again gang appreciate all the input...MD