Replacement Motor for an old Wells bandsaw

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I got an old Wells bandsaw for free.  I can't read the model number on the saw or the motor. We put a new blade in the saw and it cut like a champ for a while and then it died.  I am thinking about putting a new motor, switch, and new wiring on the saw.  Everything on the saw is fine so I figure this would be a cheap fix.I am guessing it is a 1/2 HP motor but I am not sure on the speed or rpm setting of the motor.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks
Reply:What size blade is on it  1" or 3/4"  Welsaw will send you manuals and any info you need. Can you post a pic?  I have a 14" X 8"Wel saw and I have a 1725 3/4 horse on it and it works fine. By the way mine was built in 1941 and they still have parts but they are really proud of there parts.I always tried to work with the oldest hand on the job to gain knowlege but now I can't find any.
Reply:Sounds like a nice find.I worked in a shop that had a Wells or Wells-Index saw,Don't remember which.Good saw though.I do remember it had a 1/2 hp motor.There are two speed types of common induction motors.(It has to do with the number of poles in the motor)1800 rpm type(1725,1740,1765  etc.rpm)3600 rpm type(3450, 3480 etc.rpm)If I understand what type saw you have:a 1/2 or 3/4 hp motor,1725,1740 ,1765 rpm is fine.3450 etc rpm,too fast for this application.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Most tools of that type use 4-pole (1800 rpm on 60Hz power) motors.  It's possible that its a 6-pole (1200 rpm), but that's unlikely since they're considerably more pricey for the same output power, and the same speed reduction can be had by simply using a higher ratio in the saw's gearbox.  2-pole (3600 rpm) is common, but not on a slow speed machine.  I'd bet the farm it's a plain vanilla 4-pole.  Probably Totally-Enclosed, Fan-Cooled (TEFC), too, which is a little bit more money than a vented design, but doesn't allow dirt and oil mist inside.  You have to match the frame when replacing it, if you don't want to get into modifying it or the saw.  Shaft size is dictated by frame size.  A small motor like that is probably a NEMA 56*, which will have a 5/8" dia. shaft.  If it's a footed 56-frame motor (has mounting feet), it's the most common small motor type out there, and replacements will be everywhere, and relatively cheap.  It could also be face mounted, usually designated as 'C-face' in small sizes like that.  Same dimensions as footed 56-frame motors, but with a machined interface on the shaft end-bell, and often with no feet.Cheap sources of motors include Electric Motor Warehouse and Surplus Center (name-brand motors), and the usual suspects for possibly no-name motors like Harbor Freight and Grizzly.  Ebay has zillions of motors, but you're taking a risk there unless it's a storefront with lots of good feedback.  Used motors are a real crapshoot there.  Oh, motor repair shops often have repaired motors that weren't picked up by the customer that they sell to recoup what they've go into them.But before changing out the motor, you should troubleshoot it to make sure it's actually the motor that's bad.  Proper motor circuits include overload protection, which on a saw is likely to be a manual-reset type.  The motor itself may have a reset button, or if there's a magnetic (or mechanical, usually on older tools) motor control with OL protection.You need to poke around in there with a voltage tester (Wiggy or multimeter) and see, at various points in the circuit, where the voltage ceases to exist.  If it's everywhere, including at the motor leads, then there's something going on in the motor.  It's entirely possible, however, that it goes into the motor control and doesn't come out the other side.  It could even be something as simple as a GFCI receptacle that's popped.If the motor hums but doesn't turn, that's probably fixable too.  Lots of things that could be wrong, but specific symptoms are needed to diagnose.*For NEMA 42, 48, and 56 frames (called 'fractional horsepower' frames), divide the frame size by 16 to get the mounting surface to shaft center distance.  For 3-digit sizes ('integral hp' frames), divide the first 2 digits by 4 to get the distance.  A NEMA 5 frame has a "D" dimension (bottom of foot to shaft center) of 3.5", and a 182 frame has a 4.5" dimension, for example.
Reply:thanksIt wasn't the motor.  I was cutting some 6x3 tube and apparently I kicked the cord under the saw.  Steel fell off the stand, yanked the cord out of the switch and somehow wrecked the switch.  Problem solved, appreciate the info fellasTB 302 EFIESAB Migmaster 275MM 211 w/Spoolmate 100Hypertherm PlasmaMetal Master, Victor, and Smith TorchesUnihydro 45Wells BandsawArcair K2000Weldcraft Tig rigMiller 12VSLincoln PT 225No one can say I'm brand biased.
Reply:Tkanzler, thanks, that is very good info on motors that I didn't know.
Reply:FYI wells is still and business and supports all their older model saws still.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.