Chopsaw Technique Part 2...

admin

6. After cut, no torn, ragged or burred edges.7. Add-on components: 1" X 1" angle & 1 1/2" X 3/16" plate cut to 3 3/4" L.8. Angle & plate positioned in jaw & mounting hole locations marked.9. Holes drilled for location & position (#7 drill).10. Holes tapped for 1/4"X20tpi thread.Last edited by MicroZone; 07-04-2007 at 11:09 PM.Complete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:11. Repositioned in place & tack welded.12. Top & bottom welded.13. Different size tubing...1 1/2" X 3/4" can also be positioned correctly.14. Clean cut...smooth & effortless on blade.15. No distortion or large burrs on cutoff.Last edited by MicroZone; 07-04-2007 at 11:11 PM.Complete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:16. Proper position for angle cuts....left add-on attached to provide strong support for this size only.17. Clean, effortless cut.18. No large burrs or distortion.19. Proper position for piece of 2" X 2" angle to get best results.I think I goofed on the posting of an additional thread. Hope the moderators can move it to its' proper place....if not, SORRY.I hope some of you can use these methods to ease your cutting problems with a chopsaw and extend the life of your blades. My next series will encompass how to cut varying angles that are more acute than the 45-90 deg. settings on a chopsaw vise......DennyLast edited by MicroZone; 07-04-2007 at 11:12 PM.Complete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Great idea.anything that will save saw blades, will in turn save you money. Top idea!!!
Reply:Great tutorial yorkie! However, from the looks of the metal particals, it looks like a cold cut saw, not a chopsaw...correct? Is that an abrasive blade or a metal carbide blade?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Here you go Micro; http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=12529Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Hahaa, thanks olddad....I edited that so we can see the pics and never noticed the blade. I just wanted to clarify "cold cut saw" versus the common term we use for "chopsaw". I think more people think of a chopsaw as the aggregate material blade...a rough cut saw.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Maybe I'm just stuck in my old ways but to me "chopsaw" refers to the style of saw. I always relate chopsaws with powered wood miter saws. Now "hot cut" and "cold cut" would be another story...lol.BTW yorkiepap, I really like that "signature line". It's too bad the majority doesn't feel that way anymore.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Great tutorial for thoughs who can't afford or havn't a band saw. It will save a lot on the blades and speed up the cutting. Good Job.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:All right Yorkie. Now I'm looking for that sharper than 45° attachment you mentioned on that other thread.MmmmmmmmmmmmBeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrGooooooooooo  oodddd!!!!
Reply:cool beans it also works cool in the bandsaw vise cuts a lil faster350P 30A spool gun cut master 51  syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:Thanks yorkiepap,Now I have another reason to spend time in the garage this weekend cutting and welding!  I'm gonna whip up one of them there "45 degree angulators" lickety-split!cricman
Reply:Hey guys/gals,I want to clarify and maybe clear up the misnomer(chopsaw) I used. I guess we all have a tendency to call these types of saws as "chopsaws". Technically, my Porter Cable is a "Dry Cut Saw", and the posts by MicroZone & olddad are correct. The saws are classified as "dry cut", "abrasive", & "multi-function" by manufacturer. A dry cut saw can utilize either a carbide-tipped ferrous metal steel blade or a composite abrasive blade. They are commonly in the 1300 rpm range. The abrasive blades for these saws should also be in the 1300 rpm range. The "abrasive" saws are generally in the 3400-3800 rpm range and the abrasive discs are manufactured to be the most effective at that rpm range. The higher rpm range allow for a much higher "surface feet per minute" so these can cut quite efficiently. The "multi-function" saws are designated so both metal & abrasive blades can be used, such as the designation of the DeWalt 872. My Porter Cable can also use abrasive blades, but Porter Cable designates "dry cut saw". One warning I must pass on is that the blades(both configurations) for 1300 rpm saws should never be used on saws with a 3400-3800 rpm range. That would be a recipe for a disaster and I saw firsthand the result of a low rpm blade on a high rpm saw.....not pretty. Anyway, I hope this will clear up some information to those considering this type of saw.....Thanks again...DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Denny, Great idea! As a guy that makes hundreds of cuts with one of these saw per day, I know that larger tubing will dull your blade very quickly.   A couple of things...with your mod you will not be able to do angle cuts in tubing, also you would need several different sizes :ie 1", 1-1/2", 2" ect. We have three of these type of saws in our shop,  we have added a fence to two of them so we can set up a stop for repeat cuts. This also helps with the tearout on the tube, also your parts do not go flying when you cut through. I will snap some pics and send them if you want. Great idea! I will have to build one for cutting larger tube."If you live in Sacramento you have seen my work."
Reply:Hi Jonnie,I realize this thread is pretty old, but I was wondering if you would be kind enough to send some pics of the fences you mentioned from the carbide saws at your shop. No worries if the opportunity is no longer available... just thought I'd ask. Let me know if you need an email address.Thanks,Tony Originally Posted by Jonnie FrazDenny, Great idea! As a guy that makes hundreds of cuts with one of these saw per day, I know that larger tubing will dull your blade very quickly.   A couple of things...with your mod you will not be able to do angle cuts in tubing, also you would need several different sizes :ie 1", 1-1/2", 2" ect. We have three of these type of saws in our shop,  we have added a fence to two of them so we can set up a stop for repeat cuts. This also helps with the tearout on the tube, also your parts do not go flying when you cut through. I will snap some pics and send them if you want. Great idea! I will have to build one for cutting larger tube.
Reply:We haven't heard from Johnnie in some time. You could try sending him a private message, he may have e-mail notification set to "on".But as far a fences go for chop saws, I made one for woodworking at my last job. But the same idea applies to metal cutting, just build a long narrow table with the saw nested in the center region. Farmer Samm built one and has pics on a thread around here somewhere...shoot, I imagine the archives have loads of them if you run a search. City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny