O/A for beginner?

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Hey all, long story short:  I am a hobbyist, short on cash, looking for an occasional use welder. Once I get a welder the first project I would like to do involves some modifications to a grill. I am not looking to do structural stuff/repairs for a while, but may attempt that later on after some education. Taking a class and buying an expensive machine is out of the question right now, as money is tight and I just started a new job. I was looking at a HF box, but you guys have successfully convinced me that this isn't the way to go. So, is oxyfuel a reasonable choice for a beginner?  It seems very flexible, can weld a wide range of thickness, isn't tied to an outlet, and has the added ability of cutting. So aside from getting tanks refilled, what are the downsides to this process?  Any reason I shouldn't seek out a OA setup as a beginner, for occasional use as a hobbyist?
Reply:In my area if you rent the bottles for 2-years, you might as well buy them. The cost of gauges, torch, welding tips, and hose. I’d think a import SMAW machine would be way cheaper.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:IF you can get enough cash, MILLER has a super deal on their 211 mig. FREE SPOOLGUN and $200 or $400 REBATE .http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/Spoolmate_RebateFlye.pdfhttp://www.millerwelds.com/landing/b...content=onlineWhat is your location ?
Reply:I am a beginner, all I have so far is a Henrob O/A welder and I'm happy with it.Pros: Versatility! Welds, brazes, cuts, heats (for bending metal or loosening rusted bolts). Welds most metals, as long as you have the appropriate filler (and flux, when required). Does not need electricity.Cons: Slow welding. Expensive gas, not a huge problem when welding thin stuff but you really don't want to weld very much of the thicker stuff even if your welder can do it. Sometimes not suitable for welding where an open flame flame, slow heating and cooling, and large hot zone is a problem (or you may need to move/remove more sensitive stuff near the weld before you can start welding).As I said, I got a O/A set as my first welder, and I haven't regretted it for a second. Sure, I'd like to also have a stick welder for welding thick stuff quicker and cheaper, and/or a MAG welder for similar reasons, but so far I have not yet come across something I needed to weld but was unable to do with my O/A set. O/A is still a good process, it has a few handicaps but it still can do most of the jobs the electric welders do and it's even better than them at some jobs.
Reply:The easiest process in my opinion for a brand new beginner is MIG. The cheapest process for a beginner is SMAW (arc or stick welding). Learning how to stick weld may be easier to learn than OA welding. I had a bear of time teaching myself to OA weld, and still haven't even gotten to basic proficiency yet. I am much more capable at MIG, stick and TIG than OA and I am pretty much self taught. If your really trying to stay within a budget, get yourself a nice used stick welder. I believe it is much cheaper than OA once you factor in a few gas refills.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Personally, O/A would be (and was) my second major welding purchase after a stick welder. While O/A is super useful and will do lots of things an electric welder won't do, or won't do as well – from brazing and heating to cutting to flame-bending – I think your best bang for the buck is going to be a used stick welder. I'd recommend AC/DC. Used, you should be able to get into one for $300. You can get an O/A rig from HFT for $200 but by the time you get bottles, and buy gas and filler and so on, you're going to be over $300 most likely. And don't forget you're going to need other stuff, as well, no matter which way you go, from angle grinders to a Portaband saw, so you're probably best served getting a cheap used SMAW welder and going from there. Good luck in whatever you decide.
Reply:OA is one of the most versatile tools you can have in the shop. You can loosen stuck bolts, cut, heat and bend, solder and braze as well as weld. If you can find someone who knows how to OA weld and learn from them, you can pick it up fairly quickly. On your own welding with OA can be tough. The other parts like soldering/ brazing/heating and cutting are pretty easy though.If you go this route, skip the tiny cylinders that they sell in many kits. If you plan to do any volume of heating or cutting, you will want at least a 75 cf Acetylene cylinder and an 80-100 cf O2 cylinder. I think every shop needs an OA set. Having said that as mentioned Mig is a lot easier to learn on your own, Stick follows not to far behind, but is better suited for heavier stock vs mig. All 3 gives you a well rounded shop.I started out on OA way back in Jr High and shortly there after managed to convince my parents to get me this little tiny Craftsman set. I couldn't do all that much with it, but it let me do some things. Later I picked up a bigger set and I still use it more than 20 years later. I don't do much OA welding any more, but I do heat cut and solder with one fairly regularly..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The correct size O/A rig isn't exactly cheap either- sure you may find a deal on CL but you can also find a deal on a Mig machine.Anyhoo- call your local gas supplier and find out what a set of bottles will cost as well as the Welding and Cutting set.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Lots to think about, thank you all for the thoughts. I have been looking for a stick welder but it would be too difficult to weld some of the things I want to start out with, as they're on the thinner side. I will still pick one up if I see one for a good price- I was trying to get a Lincoln AC225 for $50 but never heard back from the seller. I really can't afford to spend more than 150-200 on the welder alone, which rules out most new setups. I know I'll need other tools, some of which I already have. I will continue to watch locally for something, and in a few weeks I will probably be able to set aside a few bucks so I can jump on a deal if it pops up. Thanks again for answering my (probably repetitive) questions!
Reply:Tanks for O/A are the limiting factor cost-wise.  In some areas, you can get a decent used O/A torch (no tanks) setup for well under $200.  Even new good-quality torch/reg kits are available for less than $300., though you won't get an assortment of tips at that price. I've even seen some older stuff with reasonable sized tanks for maybe $250. but they sold FAST.  I got an old Smith's small torch kit with cutting attaProblem is, if you want to use O/A for welding or heating or thicker cutting, you need a large acetylene tank for safety (1/7th drawdown rule). And a small Oxy tank will be used up quickly. Post your general location in case someone sees something nearby at a good deal. I got an old Smith's torch kit, never used, with cutting attachment, regs and about 3 welding tips ($$$) for $100.  Have never used it and it may be dry-rotted or at least need new o-rings.  But deals are out there.  I see an AC/DC Century stick welder without leads here on the east coast CL for $50."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:With patience you can get into a nice used stick welder for under $200. Do post your location. Lots of people here are wizards at searching Craig's list.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:I am in Macomb County, MI. I have more patience than money!  Doubt this will be still there before I have a chance to pick it up, but what's the story on this one?http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5015662716.htmlI googled the model but haven't found much.
Reply:Price is great for an AC/DC machine. That will do you just fine. Just make sure the sliding shunt moves. Some times if they get used only in one position, over the years they can rust in place and be a pain to move.Dayton is Grainger's brand I believe, and I think they originally were made for them by Century. There's really very little that can go wrong with them, other than possibly a bad switch, you fry the diodes, or as mentioned above, the sliding shunt adjustment gets stuck. All of those are fixable, just don't try and force the shunt if it won't move. You'll need to disassemble the machine to free up the shunt. Many "off" brand units like Montgomery Wards, Craftsman and so on were made by Century. They aren't as well known as Millers and Lincolns, but are still serviceable machines. If you later choose to upgrade, you can make every penny back selling it, if not turn a small profit. I'd see if you can get it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If you decide to go with O/A (or are interested anyway) I suggest you try to get hold of a good O/A welding handbook from the sixties or close to that. Back when O/A was used for all kinds of jobs, and the books were written to help you do just about anything. I've picked up several old O/A books I've found in second hand shops for (equal to) a few dollars each, and there are loads of interesting stuff in them - instructions for welding aluminum, copper, bronze, brass, silver, cast iron, stainless steel, even welding lead(!), also brazing, soldering, cutting and so on. Sure, some stuff in there is obsolete, you will not be using a asbestos-water mix around a weld to reduce the HAZ and distortion on stainless, you will probably never weld lead, you will certainly not produce your own acetylene gas from carbide, but even that stuff is interesting to know, and the odd stuff that isn't obsolete is a goldmine whenever you need to do something out of the ordinary.
Reply:I'm with CEP, look for something like an Everlast inverter. If your budget is so low you can only afford $50, save up till you can afford a little more.
Reply:Intersting G-son! thanks for the extra info! Don't cheap out. save up, don't be in a rush. Take it from me! i along with lots of others, going to high school going to work a few days a week, financially in the same boat, and waited over a 1 year and a half. Just save.VictorPraxairAir LiquideMillerLincoln Electric
Reply:Hey all, long story short: I am a hobbyist, short on cash, looking for an occasional use welder.How bout asking if you could borrow a nieghbor's machine? Put the $50 on some consumables and practice metal
Reply:When I was in the high school metals shop and then taking some welding courses for my assoc. degree we initially learned on an O/A setup. Reasoning is that if you learn on an O/A setup you can learn anything.  Other than brazing refrigeration lines I never used o/a welding in a few years of hvac work.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I started with acetylene forty five years ago. For me it's the process I fall back on often. There isn't much I can't do with it. The down side is you'll always be haunted with distortion. At age 13 I didn't have the ability to form the top edge on a Jeep body. I cut the old one 1" wide and welded new steel to it. There was a ton of hammer and dolly work to stretch the weld and HAZ to its intended length.Skilled people do amazing things with it.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Just wanted to say, my budget isn't strictly $50, but that's all I could afford if I bought a welder in the next couple weeks. I just happened to find two different arc welders for $50 over the last week, and I was considering them.
Reply:Oldendum wrote           "Problem is, if you want to use O/A for welding or heating or thicker cutting, you need a large acetylene tank for safety (1/7th drawdown rule). "I hope this isn't considered as hi-jacking because I believe this might be important for a newbee to consider.  I had never heard of the 1/7th drawdown rule before so I did some research.  Man is the subject ever one kettle of fish.  One old thread of piticular interest was asking how/why manufactures put togeather a kit consisting of a torch with tips that grossly violate the rule while useing small tanks in kit.  Farthur research appears to indicate even 120cf and larger tanks are often too small for routine chores.  Here is copy and paste from Northern Tool's catalog regarding a 40cf B tank (Provides approx 1 hr. burn time when matched with the same size oxygen cylinder, using an oxyacetylene cutting torch.)  Once more,forgive me but can we discuss this 1/7th rule which btw has been revised to the 1/10th rule?
Reply:Those little portable tanks are good for a few minutes of cutting, but great for an HVAC truck (which is what I used them for)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Birdhunter1Those little portable tanks are good for a few minutes of cutting, but great for an HVAC truck (which is what I used them for)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:O/A is not cheap.  Versatile, yes.  However, I only weld with acetylene.  I cut and heat with propane.  Thus another expense.   If power is not an issue, then stick is cheaper for welding.  You can weld varying thicknesses by just turning a knob and maybe change a rod- -opposed to changing tips and sucking an expensive acetylene tank dry while you learn. Transporting decent sized bottles for refill is not fun either.   I love the O/A process.  Used it much and made money with it, and still use in on occasion.  However,  It ain't cheap, nor practical most time. It is just romantic.
Reply:^^^^^ I'd second tapwelders post.I went thru the same proccess as you are now. Wanting to do something but short in cash and trying to come to a compromise that gets you what you want and not getting hit in the wallet too much. Cost-wise stick is the cheapest of all the welding proccesses. Specially for ones still learning to weld. O/A consumables aint cheap and your bound to use a lot when trying to learn to weld.Last edited by silvertina; 05-15-2015 at 09:20 AM.Yeah, I think stick is gonna be the way to go to learn with a little less expense. As far as used welders go, how does this Forney for $45 look?http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/5019059675.html
Reply:if you can swing this, it is the Cadillac of plug in stick welders. Offer him 200 and see if he will settle at $250. If you don't like it you are guaranteed to get your money back. This is really a good deal  http://porthuron.craigslist.org/grd/5009797689.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:this one might not be bad.  http://thumb.craigslist.org/tls/4986513299.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:To me that Idealarc is too high for an AC only machine. Arc is great, but I'd want the price to be down closer to $200-225 to consider it. I've seen the AC/DC ones go fairly regularly for between $350-450. I'd rather pony up a few dollars more for the AC/DC version..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Well, I picked up that forney with a bunch of old rods for $40. After giving the power cord a better look, it should probably be replaced. Outer rubber is really split, but the inner is fine. Would replacing the power cord with 25' of 10/3 cable and topping it with the appropriate plug (dryer plug for my house) be acceptable?
Reply:That should work fine. The 30 amp dryer circuit will be some what limiting, but you shouldn't have any issues running 3/32" rods up to around 100 amps or so.Note though that you want CORD, not CABLE. Cord is made up of stranded wires and is designed for repeated flexing. Cable, has solid wires and is designed for in wall installation. Cord is also sold by the number of wires, so you will want something like 10-3 SO cord. Wire or cable like Romex is sold as number of conductors plus the ground, so 10-2 Romex is 2 conductor with ground..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I won't have any trouble running this thing on max output with the 10-3 cord if I hook up to a 50-amp circuit, right?Everyone here is really helpful, but damn, DSW...thank you for all the work you put in here helping people out. Every thing I search for here seems to have a thorough response posted by you.  I am sure it gets exhausting answering the same question time and time again, so...thanks.
Reply:Keep your eye open for welding leads.  Might find a good deal on used,  allowing less cord and more lead reach.
Reply:Originally Posted by boone0I won't have any trouble running this thing on max output with the 10-3 cord if I hook up to a 50-amp circuit, right?.
Reply:Boone0, thanks. I enjoy helping others learn. That's why I help teach welding and help out with 4-H and Scouts. Jax, actually code allows the use of lighter gauge wire on 50 amp dedicated welder circuits because of the limited duty cycle on  welders. I believe 25' of 10 gauge will still meet code for 50 amps. One of the Sparkies here can confirm or correct me if I'm wrong on this. but it's been covered in many threads fairly extensively.This should not however be done with say the house wiring used for the dryer. That would be unsafe. When used as an dedicated welder extension cord, or as the supply cord for the machine, that's fine. Going to heavier cord like 8-3 never hurts though, other than your wallet.Use of 10-3 in a 50 amp cord is covered pretty thoroughly in this thread. Rather than an extension cord, you are just replacing the machine cord, but it's the same thing.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ord&highlight=.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I've had a Forney 225 AC here for farm repairs for close to 40 years and it's a dependable little unit for what it is. Obviously it doesn't give you the DC options of a higher priced welder, but it's still a nice machine for AC. The only problems I have had with mine are related to the plugins and I changed the on/off switch once. Make sure the plastic insulators around the plugin are snug (don't crank on them with a big wrench because they are very easy to strip) or they will short against the sheet metal body. Also check inside that the bolt holding the wires to the back of the plugin are tight. If it's an aluminum wired unit the wires will burn off very easily if that bolt comes loose... which it will with repeated use. That's not a serious issue as long as you have enough wire to reconnect, but becomes problematic when you run out of wire. Easy fix is to just check everything for snugness once a year or so.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Good morning DSW.  I to would like to thank you for all you do here daily.  I'm new and rarly post,I feel one learns nothing by talking so I mostly lurk and listen.  In my brief introduction post i mentioned my appreciation for the absence of conterversy and pointless aurgument on this forum.  Continueing in that spirit I certainly don't intend kicking dirt on anyone's shoes. I feel my advice to o.p. is sound in recruting a knowledgable assistant and think twice before useing electric conductor in a circuit  breakered close to double conductor's capacity.  I think the link you sited actually supports my position rather than yours.  On page one and following pages (I didn't read all 15 pages) more than one individual points out or admits what is being suggesred is considered "rigging".  With hat in hand I humbly without his permission quote Gravel a current active member because he state's it very well in explaining and invites farthur questions.  Perhaps Gravel might weigh in here to help us better understand the current slightly different issue with mismatched conductor/breaker pairings. From the linked thread,quote "Here is the common sense version of the bottom line which i believe is the thought behind the NEC reg. If you make an extension cord with 50A rated ends and wire that can't handle that load it will eventually be used for something that uses the full 50A and will burn. (Made this cord for my 180A MIG welder but now I'm going to use it for my 225A stick welder because the ends are the right kind.) A dedicated whip that has, for instance, a 30A breaker with 10 ga wire and a 50A receptacle is not going to burn because the breaker will protect the wire due to them matching. When you overload the circuit, the breaker trips before you exceed the wire rating. Let me know if you don't understand this and I'll try to explain it better/different." End quote.IMO,(A) The o.p. sounds uncertain about electric wireing in general and is better served recieving help and instructions in person.  (B) The new wire in question very well may be subjected to rough handling,walked on,items dropped on or rolled over,hot and sharp metal and other means of damage that results in high resistance short to earth and or conductive equipment. In example A there are several opertunities for mistake aside from simply wire size,plugs and breakers. It's unreasonable to expect all scenarios would be covered in our discussion here. In example B ever additional foot in leingth increases oppertunity for damage while minimizing possability operator would notice damage.  In the event of short circuit the conductor may reach combustion/melting tempature before breakers trip. These questions are better asked by calling your local fire station rather than asking iron workers. I don't intend going back and forth,do as you please,it's your property but remember it may involve someone else's life.
Reply:Jax, I appreciate your concern and input. I believe the concern Gravel had was the possibility that although the extension cord would be adequate for a welder, it would eventually (possibly) be plugged into a device which would put more demand on the cord, causing safety issues. I am replacing the power cord on a light use, hobby unit at home. I am comfortable with electric circuits, but I have less experience with higher voltage and welding, so I like to run stuff by people with a little more experience.Whtbaron thanks for the reply. I'll let you guys know when I am able to use it!  Might have time to take care of it today, not sure.
Reply:Well, got it running!  Just trying to put some beads down on 3/16 flat bar. Used some 6013 and 7014 rods at 95a which were god knows how old. I will need a bit of practice before I can do anything useful, but this is fun!I managed to flash myself once, for as long as it takes to tap the rod to the steel, despite being incredibly careful (apparently not careful enough). Should I expect pain from one brief flash, or is it repeated/prolonged exposure?
Reply:Unless you are extremely sensitive, one very brief flash won't hurt.  This is also were a good pair of UV protective safety glasses will help. Even though it won't block the bright light, it will greatly reduce the chances you will end up with itchy eyes if you accidentally flash yourself. I can't think of any time I've had itchy eyes from flash burn since I started wearing prescription safety glasses that also help block UV. I'm probably flashed well over a dozen times in class at night. In some cases the student simply accidentally strikes an arc unexpectedly. Other times I just happen to be looking in the direction of some ones booth who left the curtains open and stuck an arc.You might as well get used to wearing them all the time. Getting steel dug out of your eye is no fun at all. You never have time to think about putting them on when you need them most.Find yourself a pair that fits well and is comfortable. You won't wear it if it's not. If you want to be stylish, that's fine too. Honestly mine don't look stylish at all, but they were the best pair available from my eye care professional. I didn't even bat an eye at the price. He said he could save me some money if I wanted, but I went with the best available. Trust me it will only take one time when it saves your eyes to make you a full time believer. Same goes with all PPE..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002IV...B-L&ref=plSrchSomething along these lines?Nothing to be proud of here as far as quality, but I am pretty happy that I was able to melt steel for several inches!  Who needs their trailer fixed?  Lol.
Reply:Those safety glasses will work just fine. It wouldn't surprise me if you can't find them in Depot or Lowes. They have a fairly good selection and one of them stocks the Dewalt ones. Keep in mind they are plastic, and you want to use some care with them. Plastic lenses don't pit from hot sparks like glass lenses will, but they will scratch easier. I'd rinse them 1st if they are dirty to help remove as much grit as possible, and use a soft cloth, not paper towels to wipe them down with. Paper is very scratchy. You should also store them so they don't lay on the lenses and get scratched, same goes if you need to take them off for some reason, Don't lay them lenses down like many do, or you will scratch them all up.Welds at the far right aren't too bad. On average you will get about 6" of weld from one rod burned down to about 2" left, or about the numbers printed on the rod. That will give you a good idea how fast you should travel. If you are getting 8-10 " of weld or only 3-4" you need to adjust your travel speed acordingly..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If your Forney is like mine, it should have a little chart along the bottom at the front telling you amperage ratings for different sizes of rods. Unless I'm on very thin metal, I tend to find myself pushing the higher end of the suggested ratings. Unless those are very small rods, you could probably push that up to around 110 to 120 amps even on 3/16". Of course if you start blowing holes I could be wrong... what size of rods are you using?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:One was 3/16, one was 1/8, can't remember exactly what was what. The paint is really worn off on the bottom, so no chart on mine. Buying a regular helmet I think was a mistake, so my next investment will be an auto darkening shade.  Then I'll pick up a few newer rods and see what works.
Reply:A regular hood just takes practice. The optics on my fixed shade Jackson are every bit as good, if not better than that of my $300 Miller AD hood. I have a lot of students who rush right out and buy a cheap HF AD hood and regret it. Optics on those really inexpensive hoods are terrible. If you can't see detail well with the hood, you won't be able to weld well. Usually by the end of class most have realized that they wasted the $50 or so they spent on one of those cheap AD hoods as they already have replaced it, or are looking to replace it with a better hood.A few tricks with the fixed hood. #1 get the tension adjusted right. I takes a bit to do so some times. It needs to be tight enough to stay up, but loose enough to come down easily when you nod your head. #2 I see a lot of people move their whole body rather than simply nod their head. They "bob" and their arms and chest move as well as their head. This shifts where they are going to start to weld. For practice. leave the welder off, but put a rod in the stinger.  If you can take the lens out of the hood temporarily, this can help. Make a mark with chalk or what ever so you have a fixed start point and get ready to "weld". Nod your head trying not to move your hands/chest. If you took the lens out ( of flipped the lens if it's that style) you should be able to see where the rod is now in comparison to where it was before. You can also simply leave the hood off, and work on noding with your eyes shut to see if you move. With a bit of practice it's not hard to stay stationary.When I 1st learned in a class, the instructor wouldn't let anyone in class use an AD hood. He wanted everyone to at least know how to use a fixed hood as he said that at some point if you are serious about welding, you are going to need to go to a fixed hood, even if it's a backup for your AD hood. I'd rather see you spend $150-200 in steel and rod than on an mid level AD hood..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yep.... I'll echo that. Welded for 25 yrs with a fixed shade before I got my AD. Luckily I borrowed a cheap one and that lasted about 45 seconds. I finally got a good one and I love it, but the fixed shade is still sitting in the other shed with my spare welder. With the 3/16 you should be right in the ball park for amps. If those old rods have absorbed any moisture that could be causing you problems as well.Last edited by whtbaron; 05-21-2015 at 09:42 AM.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I'll give that a try. I struggle with coordinating the alignment, striking an arc, and flipping down the shield without blinding myself or being several inches off. I guess like most things, practice and patience will be more effective than a cheap fix. Thanks for steering me right as always!