Trouble maintaining an arc using 7018AC

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Hi everyone! I'm new to the forum and to welding, I have an AC welder and got some Hobart 1/8 7018AC electrodes, I've been trying them but it's very very difficult to maintain the arc, I've used regular 7018s on DC+ and got the hang of it and I'm able to at least maintain the arc, but with the 7018AC rods it's been almost impossible for me. Any tips you can share? I've tried running them between 90-120 amps and have the same problem.Any help will be appreciated.
Reply:I bought some Hobart 7018AC a couple weeks ago and it burned equally nice whether on AC or DC on my Miller Thunderbolt buzzbox (top crank model).  I was actually quite surprised that it burned so well on AC.That all said 7018 can be tempermental to run if it has drawn moisture.  Throw a couple rods in an old toaster oven, (or if your brave the wife's kitchen oven) and see what happens.
Reply:Try upping your amps, AC current is going to make starting and running even 7018AC rods harder than DC current. If you burn holes you may need 3-32 rod instead.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:Originally Posted by rankrank1(or if your brave the wife's kitchen oven) and see what happens.
Reply:I agree with MJD.  130-140 amps.  Make sure they are the AC variety as well.Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:Thanks all!  I'll give it a shot with a higher amp setting + baking the rods
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPSee what happens when she catches you?!
Reply:You can get Lincoln's 7018AC at any Home Despot or Blowes. Maybe they will work better with your welder.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedYou can get Lincoln's 7018AC at any Home Despot or Blowes. Maybe they will work better with your welder.John
Reply:What kind of AC welder are you using?  I think I ran those 1/8: Hobart 7018AC rods at about 125 amps (no more than 130) on AC on my Miller Thunderbolt. Course those indicators are not always precise either.If you have not already tried some already then do try some 7014 on your AC machine.  7014 typically burns very nice on an AC machine although I would try to find another brand besides Hobart if you could.  7014 also does not have the storage hassles of 7018 or 7018AC.  My limited experience with Hobart 7014 is just that they are okay on my machine (not exceptional).  I have burned other brands that I liked better in 7014.  7014 will like even more amps though somewhere in the 140 range would not be unheard of.  But 7014 sure is an "idiot rod" as it almost welds by itself.I like Hobart 335A 6011 but all 6011 is more difficult to run(takes more skill IMOP and I struggle with 6011).  I also like the the Hobart 7018AC.  Just tried some US Forge/Messer brand in 6013 that I liked too.  All burned well on AC or DC.Last edited by rankrank1; 01-03-2014 at 10:48 AM.
Reply:Make sure you have a good GROUND CLAMP and GROUND. The provided sheetmetal clamps are not the best. Get BRASS.
Reply:Originally Posted by rankrank1What kind of AC welder are you using?  I think I ran those 1/8: Hobart 7018AC rods at about 125 amps (no more than 130) on AC on my Miller Thunderbolt. Course those indicators are not always precise either.If you have not already tried some already then do try some 7014 on your AC machine.  7014 typically burns very nice on an AC machine although I would try to find another brand besides Hobart if you could.  7014 also does not have the storage hassles of 7018 or 7018AC.  My limited experience with Hobart 7014 is just that they are okay on my machine (not exceptional).  I have burned other brands that I liked better in 7014.  7014 will like even more amps though somewhere in the 140 range would not be unheard of.  But 7014 sure is an "idiot rod" as it almost welds by itself.I like Hobart 335A 6011 but all 6011 is more difficult to run(takes more skill IMOP and I struggle with 6011).  I also like the the Hobart 7018AC.  Just tried some US Forge/Messer brand in 6013 that I liked too.  All burned well on AC or DC.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Make sure you have a good GROUND CLAMP and GROUND. The provided sheetmetal clamps are not the best. Get BRASS.
Reply:The guy is correct in suggesting 7014 if you ain't welding really thick stuff at the limits of your machine....and also the suggestion about a solid ground is also very good.I ain't got but a few hours welding stick, but I already discovered Hobarts 7018 dc rod is a pain in the butt compared to lincolns excaliper DC...I know you are talking AC, but even with  DC rods there is a big diff between manufactures.....I HATE trying to chip the scale after the Hobart stuff, by the Lincoln almost peels itself off.
Reply:Originally Posted by jchaverriThanks! I would, but I live in Costa Rica and I can only get Hobart 7018AC, I'll try ordering some online and see if they work better.I was able to maintain the arc much better by turning up the AMPS. Now I need more practice! will practice more on the weekend.Thank you all for the help!.
Reply:OH. Eutectic stuff and ESAB fillers, welders, parts. These guys supply the wind farms. Soldamundo is also a Kemppi dealer.http://www.sagotcorp.com/Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:If you aren't in SJ all of these guys will put it on the public bus or use Uva-Carib ( Macho) who has small offices all over the country. most anything can wind up at your bus station for $3. I just brough in 3 sheets of Diamond 4x8, Uva. $12Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeBro. Capris has 7018 AC or look up Gustavo at Legume SA(LGM) or call Censolsa or Soldamundo. 7018 AC is all over the country. You must be a noob If you're on the coast toss those Hobart rods in the trash.Only buy 7018 from the big guys in SJ or Cartago.Open an account. You get online discounts.10 lbs. $18http://www.capris.cr/index.php?route...3065&cc=383065If you need most anything hook up with Ing. Gustavo ( Miller, lincoln,Thermadyne etc) He speaks some English. Best prices !http://www.lugume.com/soldadura.htmlMartin is also a mechanical engineer and speaky Ingiehttp://www.soldamundocr.com/producto...fillers-metalsHyperthermhttp://www.censolsa.com/Ticos suck at web design. These companies all have mountains of stuff. Jump on the bus and roll.
Reply:Jose. I'll chill 72 hours before I snatch this one too  . Another Tico who pissed his aginaldo away. Offer him trecientos cinquenta.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:7014 is a good rod that runs very similar to 7018 and runs usually quite well on AC only machines. It also doesn't have the moisture issues 7018 does. If you aren't working to a specific code or requirement to use 7018, you might think about looking for 7014 instead.If you can't find that, 6013 would be another decent choice that can often be found easily in other countries. It's a bit lower in tensile strength and has a lower penetration than 7018, but is still used for a lot of things in many places..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by jchaverriThanks for the tip Burpee. Where in Costa Rica are you located? I am in San Jose. Your information is greatly appreciated, some of these guys don't know what they have, I visited Capris and then called and they told they didn't have 7018AC, just called and gave them the product ID from the web and now they tell me it's in stock!
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeJose. I own the botanical Garden on lake arenal.. NOT the old one. The new One.I'm on the Tilaran end near el mirador del lago/cinco esquinas. Capri and all the rest hire perfumed retards ! Las picapiedras con huele de putas ! dos ses nueve cinco 30 uno cincuenta 4.10 years living. 34 visiting. I have it figured out.It was not easy. YOU know that.
Reply:Thank you all for your help! I have been able to maintain the arc much better, however I'm getting wormholes at the beginning of my weld, any tips for getting rid of them? The rest of the weld looks decent. I'm using 1/8 7018AC
Reply:Jose. The first sign of flux problems with a 7018 is wormhole on startup.After it gets hot it runs fine fine.If you have a transformer machine just stick the rod to a piece of scrap steel and let it get HOT ! About a long three count. UNO-DOS-TRES. Then strike the arc on your work piece. If it's some kind of inverter figure out how many rods you want to use that day and put them on the oven at 200- 220C for an hour or so, then use them. That will "fix" it. Store the rods inside the house in the driest place you can find. I'd say Capris probably sells more 7018AC than anyone else so they should have a good rotation of inventory(relatively speaking). Try some Hilco red extra 6013 in 3/32 and 1/8 from a hardware or...Call Alfredo (the Hilco importer).2240 9966. He'll know someone close to your house who he sells to. Colono is a ripoff.Last edited by Burpee; 01-16-2014 at 06:07 AM.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeJose. The first sign of flux problems with a 7018 is wormhole on startup.After it gets hot it runs fine fine.If you have a transformer machine just stick the rod to a piece of scrap steel and let it get HOT ! About a long three count. UNO-DOS-TRES. Then strike the arc on your work piece. If it's some kind of inverter figure out how many rods you want to use that day and put them on the oven at 200- 220C for an hour or so, then use them. That will "fix" it. Store the rods inside the house in the driest place you can find. I'd say Capris probably sells more 7018AC than anyone else so they should have a good rotation of inventory(relatively speaking). Try some Hilco red extra 6013 in 3/32 and 1/8 from a hardware or...Call Alfredo (the Hilco importer).2240 9966. He'll know someone close to your house who he sells to. Colono is a ripoff.i have to go guardar las vacas. What kind of machines do you have ?Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Welcome to the nature of 7018 (and 7018AC).  7018 is a low hydrogen rod and requires special storage to maintain its properties.  When 7018 draws moisture it can be very tempermental to run (and loses it low hydrogen properties to boot).  It usually will only get progressively worse from the wormholing on startup as rods draw even more moisture over time.Manuals say 7018 can be dried at like 600-700 degrees F (see manual) for one time only and then permanently stored in a rod oven at like 200-250 degrees (again see manual).  You could improvise use your self cleaning function on kitchen oven for the initial dry in a pinch as the self cleaning function gets hotter than the oven otherwise does although still likely to be short of official temp spec.  Or you can use a salvaged toaster oven.  Or intentionally stick the rod to your workpiece to improvise dry like others mentioned.  (Either of these will help the rod burn better but usually do not restore the low hydrogen properties).Reason you do not have any problems with say 6011, 6013, or 7014 as those do not require special rod oven storage like should technically be done with 7018.  I rarely use 7018 for this reason myself as paying electricity for a rod oven 24 hours a day 7 days a week,  365 days a year, is not worth it to me for the type of welding that I do.  My old farm junk works just fine with 6011, 6013, and 7014 based repairsLast edited by rankrank1; 01-16-2014 at 09:32 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Burpeei have to go guardar las vacas. What kind of machines do you have ?
Reply:Originally Posted by rankrank1Welcome to the nature of 7018 (and 7018AC).  7018 is a low hydrogen rod and requires special storage to maintain its properties.  When 7018 draws moisture it can be very tempermental to run (and loses it low hydrogen properties to boot).  It usually will only get progressively worse from the wormholing on startup as rods draw even more moisture over time.Manuals say 7018 can be dried at like 600-700 degrees F (see manual) for one time only and then permanently stored in a rod oven at like 200-250 degrees (again see manual).  You could improvise use your self cleaning function on kitchen oven for the initial dry in a pinch as the self cleaning function gets hotter than the oven otherwise does although still likely to be short of official temp spec.  Or you can use a salvaged toaster oven.  Or intentionally stick the rod to your workpiece to improvise dry like others mentioned.  (Either of these will help the rod burn better but usually do not restore the low hydrogen properties).Reason you do not have any problems with say 6011, 6013, or 7014 as those do not require special rod oven storage like should technically be done with 7018.  I rarely use 7018 for this reason myself as paying electricity for a rod oven 24 hours a day 7 days a week,  365 days a year, is not worth it to me for the type of welding that I do.  My old farm junk works just fine with 6011, 6013, and 7014 based repairs
Reply:Originally Posted by jchaverriThanks Rank, so I've heard from the 7018s, I definetely do not need to make weld that require full 7018 properties, but I'm primarily trying to learn to learn with different rods in case I do need some day. I've never used 7014, what kind of characteristics do they have?
Reply:Originally Posted by jchaverriThanks Rank, so I've heard from the 7018s, I definetely do not need to make weld that require full 7018 properties, but I'm primarily trying to learn to learn with different rods in case I do need some day. I've never used 7014, what kind of characteristics do they have?
Reply:Thanks!! I'll try to get my hands on some 7014s and give it a shotSent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk