Wood Stove Pipe:

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I have an uncle whom uses a wood stove to heat his machine shop. He's recently had a debilitating stroke and although therapy is slowly bringing him around, he'll probably never be what he was once relearning to walk. What a cruel shame this has been. The existing wood stove chimney we built from 12" steel well casing back in 1980 and it is rusting through in several places with the times. I have about 40' of 8" schedule 40 pipe of which I'm going to make a new one from. I also have about six feet of 8" stainless pipe, (thinner wall) I'd like to use for the horizontal run from the furnace through an elbow I'll miter to fit. I don't know the grade of stainless but a guy gave me 10 pounds of 309L, (I believe) in both 3/32, and 1/8th which he says will be good to fasten the stainless to the carbon steel pipe. I've never done this in the past so asking for suggestions? I'm planning to pull my old Hobart down there to do the work next weekend. We are going to use a large tractor with a bale spear to stand the stack up once welded together. I built a slip over hook for the end of the bale spear several years ago to use as a lifting derrick and it works quite well.Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:At the mill Howard does this sort of thing all the time. When he last joined steel to stainless he started with the MM252 which he believes is still not right. (I haven't tried it) He gave up and switched to SMAW. One thing he does is never join pipes at 90 Degree angles. He'll fit at least three angle pieces between making the turn more gradual. These people think all the time about sudden turns in pipes causing turbulence and a revolving door effect preventing easy flow through the pipe. Four 22.5 D turns is less restrictive than one 90. Make each as long as you can.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BAt the mill Howard does this sort of thing all the time. When he last joined steel to stainless he started with the MM252 which he believes is still not right. (I haven't tried it) He gave up and switched to SMAW. One thing he does is never join pipes at 90 Degree angles. He'll fit at least three angle pieces between making the turn more gradual. These people think all the time about sudden turns in pipes causing turbulence and a revolving door effect preventing easy flow through the pipe. Four 22.5 D turns is less restrictive than one 90. Make each as long as you can.
Reply:He used a special mix of MIG shielding gas, I don't know the wire. It wasn't working well, I don't know, the problem might be a FUBAR welder. I was surprised how well the stick worked with the Trailblazer, I tried a stick, which worked as nice as he was doing. I'd still maintain a healthy space from combustibles even with two layers.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BHe used a special mix of MIG shielding gas, I don't know the wire. It wasn't working well, I don't know, the problem might be a FUBAR welder. I was surprised how well the stick worked with the Trailblazer, I tried a stick, which worked as nice as he was doing. I'd still maintain a healthy space from combustibles even with two layers.
Reply:309 is the proper rod to use in stainless to mild connections... sounds like a long run of chimney for a woodstove though!! curious how many inches of creosote are sitting in the bottom of it!
Reply:Dropping from 12" to 8" may effect your draw on the stove. You are making a significant change in volume of the flue, cutting down more than 1/2 the area when you make that change..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:312 is used to join dissimilar metals..ss to steel pipe...tig with argon gas...what is the flue pipe opening on the stove? you can start with that and then goto the bigger pipe..Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Will your uncle e able to handle fire  wood in the future?A pellet stove may work better for him now.You wont have to build a big chimney.Pellet stove chimneys can exit out a side wall.Old age is a problem when handling big chunks of wood.Wood pellets can be handled in a small pail.
Reply:Hi again and thanks for the help. The original stove we built has been replaced with a high efficiency "Clayton" woodburner. The chimney output on this one is 8" diameter. The exhaust stack elevates about 24", then transitions 90 degrees and runs about 48" penetrating the sidewall, then transitions 90 degrees back to vertical. The vertical run is 19' which is a couple feet higher than the ridge cap of the old house which is converted to the shop.I really don't think he'll ever handle logs again but my cousins, (his sons) both live on opposing sides so there is always help and he's looked after quite well. The main focus right now is getting him back onto his feet.Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....