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Hi guys.Whats your take on this? Im new to welding and today when it got time to weld some mitered joints on some thin square tubing (5/64 inch or 2 mm) the fitup werent exactly perfect if you know what i mean. And so i ended up with a few open gaps around 1-2mm the entire length of the mitered joint.Time and time again i blew through the gap creating nasty holes and such both with some small 6013 and 7018 (around 60 amps 5/64 inch or 2mm rods). The only thing that i found worked was to tack-weld the entire weld and thats not what i wanted to do.2mm welding with good fitup is no problem but those gaps are a pain.ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Reply:Tig weld it. Never done thin material with stick.
Reply:If you had some 6010 or 6011 try running it vertical down hill.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by akabadnewsTig weld it. Never done thin material with stick.
Reply:thanks, will try that, is 6010, 6011 recommended because it's fast freeze or minimal slag deposit electrodes?
Reply:I have to ask why you're bent on stick welding it? At least use the mig on the gaps unless you're calling a wirefeed w/ fluxcore a "mig". You'll probably retain more hair on your head. Over the yrs I've welded lots of .065 sq tube w/ my mig and sometimes I have to resort to tack welding some of the joints. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:There was a time in my life when all I had to use was an old arc welder for everything. In a situation of thin metal or poor fit, I would use a second rod for filler. Same type of rod I had in the electrode holder.
Reply:Originally Posted by Michael Nilssonthanks, will try that, is 6010, 6011 recommended because it's fast freeze or minimal slag deposit electrodes?
Reply:Michael, of course when you get that 6010 or 6011 make sure you get the smallest diameter possible. When I weld something that has a "big" gap, I always fill the biggest portion of the gap first, that is to say it will fill better when you haven't put all that heat in the piece by filling the rest of the joint first. Another thing some of us have found useful is when we start where the gap is widest, weld a little break the arc ( keep your hood down) then wait for it to cool, weld some more, let it cool, repat as necessary. The hardest part in doing that is controlling ones self and being patient to let it cool for a few seconds before striking the arc again and trying to continue to fill the "big" gap. You have already discovered I am sure it is next to impossible to fill it when there is a great deal os heat stored up in the weld joint.Some kind of Big Blue constant current welding machineAnother smaller yet, Blue machine (it's got wire in it)
Reply:Beat the flux off a 3/32 7018 and use it like a TIG wire to dab in the gap. Works really nice because it takes a lot of the heat away from the arc, which is what is causing you to blow holes.
Reply:My apologies, I didn't even see the "..with stick" part in the topic title.I assumed you were just making things difficult for yourself.
Reply:Originally Posted by Michael Nilssoni could easily mig this but i want to stick weld it.
Reply:6010+p the smallest you can get, which i believe is 1/16, and it isn't going to be pretty, the rod is almost as thick as the material your welding, and you have gap, its going to be a tacking situation, you could probably do a nice looking pass over it after the gap is filled even then you will need to be careful not to burn throughDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:As others have said, the best rod for this situation is 6010/6011. If you try this with 7018, you are in for a world of pain. Run cold and don't try to fill the gap all at once. One approach is to try to run a bead along one side of the gap, then the other, slowly building up material. The challenge is to build up material without melting away the edge, and you may have to stop quite often to let it cool. Buildup like this is MUCH easier to do with a gas-shielded process, where there is no flux to create porosity and inclusions if/when your technique is less-than-perfect. Another approach is to weld half-circles or horseshoe shapes, working from one end of the joint to the other, and pausing to let the puddle freeze. When I have done this, it always has a bunch of slag inclusions, so my goal is to just get some kind of closure on the gap and then go over it again with a good, hot pass, that hopefully burns out most of the inclusions and puts at least some good metal down. Suffice it to say, that approach is fine for some projects and totally unacceptable for others.As others have said, running fast downhill will help.But seriously: MIG or TIG is the way to go here. It can be done with stick, but it's a lot harder.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:I'd give 6013 downhill a shot. It's a sheet metal rod with less penetration than xx10/xx11You can basically drag it, and you'll need to drag it fast. Lincoln makes two version, one of which I've never seen but is supposed to be good on poor fit ups.If you can mig it, I don't see why you wouldn't want to use the easiest / best process. Especially if you've got production to do. One off, yeah stick if you have to reconfigure your wire, gas, etc. Otherwise mig. Good luck.
Reply:Oh. If anyone wonders I bought myself a esab c170 3 phase mig welder... gaps in thin stock is way to hard with stick.Skickat från min SM-N9005 via Tapatalk
Reply:Did you ever complete the project you were working on when you started this thread? Did you complete it all with stick, or is this new machine to be used to finish this project now? Can we see some pictures of what it is you are working on?
Reply:I weld gaps in structural steel all the time with 7018. There are 3 ways to weld these gaps. First way is to use a whip technique. You must keep your whip motion small and not whip out too much. As you whip with 7018 you will see the gap closing. Keep the whip short and you will not lose shielding thus preventing porosity. You will experience a lot of spatter when whipping 7018 due to the long arc. The second way to weld gaps with 7018 is to use another rod in your free hand and feed it into the puddle like your tig welding. Your welding with 2 rods, cooling the puddle and adding lots of filler. This closes gaps quickly.Another way I have used to weld gaps with 7018 is to take a rod, knock the flux off and jam the rod into the gap, this closes the gap and makes for a much nicer first pass reducing long arc.Last edited by snoeproe; 01-30-2014 at 10:33 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:35:42