SMAW aluminum gurus

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Hey guys,New to the site I've been welding in the structural industry for about 8 years. Recently a job came up that required a stainless welding ticket. And guys let me tell you, this test has gotMe beat. I've never felt so frustrated/low before I've never failed a weld test that seems so "simple" so to speak!The test includes 3 test peices of mild steel plates situated in a T joint. Using 309L rods Horizontal,vertical and over head. I've tried 3/32 and 1/8 I've tried multiple heats but I can't seem to get enough penetration to pass the horizontal even! I always pass the visual no problem. The problem lies when I crack the weld and the inspector always seems to think there's no penetration. Now,I'm not an inspector but I can tell there penetration there but he insistes there isn't enough. So, has anyone have any info on how to get more penetration? I've tried digging the rod in the puddle so to say but I get a little worried about slag entrapment.
Reply:That sounds like one of those you can’t win. His opinion vs your opinion. How about etching the welds?Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThat sounds like one of those you can’t win. His opinion vs your opinion. How about etching the welds?
Reply:Generally it’s impossible to change a welding inspector’s mind. Especially when it’s an opinion call.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:You talk about stainless, but your title says "aluminum"... If this is a typo, let me know and I'll change the title for you..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:That's the first thing I noticed too. I don't think there's such a thing as an SMAW aluminum guru. It's more of a SMAW is the last thing you want to use on aluminum if you want it to hold. How thick are the plates you're welding with 309? If you can't bevel the edge, this inspector may not know what he's talking about. Not as uncommon as you would think. Stainless doesn't burn as hot as say 7018. A bevel joining mild steel to stainless would seem like a better test. Testing a 309 weld on just mild steel seems like an unusual test.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveThat's the first thing I noticed too. I don't think there's such a thing as an SMAW aluminum guru. It's more of a SMAW is the last thing you want to use on aluminum if you want it to hold. How thick are the plates you're welding with 309? If you can't bevel the edge, this inspector may not know what he's talking about. Not as uncommon as you would think. Stainless doesn't burn as hot as say 7018. A bevel joining mild steel to stainless would seem like a better test. Testing a 309 weld on just mild steel seems like an unusual test.
Reply:Is this a "T" joint, fillet weld break test? If so, you'd want the weld to either break down the center of the bead and have the toes of the bead grab the base metal, or the toe of the bead separates from the base metal, grabbing some of the base metal with it. If the bead stays intact and the toe of the bead lifts off of the plate without ripping some of the base metal with it, you fail the test.Basically, hold the sides long enough to burn in there, when you weave.Rich
Reply:I am completely confused.... First it says aluminum then it is a stainless test with 309L rods. Then it is mild steel plate T joints? Tell the inspector he sucks for setting you up with the wrong test. Does the weld crack in the center of the weld? or does it break from the toes? If it breaks from the toes it was a bad weld generally. If it breaks down the center you made a good weld and that is a correct break. Etching will show you your definite penetration, if he says your etch looks fine but your break doesn't because of penetration he was never a welder to begin with which shows the reason why he is failing you. Because he just doesn't know any better than the book. AND You should be able to put a "face" bevel on the joining member. Just hit it slightly with the grinder which gives you a sort of landing for your filler metal to adhere to suck into giving better penetration. But some people don't like you to do that because it betters your chance of passing it lol.FROM THE LINCOLN ELECTRIC SITE:When should I use 308L, 309L or 316L filler metal? 308L (including ER308LSi) is predominately used on austenitic stainless steels, such as types 301, 302, 304, 305 and cast alloys CF-8 and CF-3. For high temperature applications such as in the electrical power industry, the high carbon 308H electrode provides better creep resistance than does 308L.316L (including ER316LSi) filler metal should be used with 316L and 316 base metals. CF-8M and CF-3M are the cast equivalents of 316 and 316L, respectively.Use 309L (including ER309LSi) when joining mild steel or low alloy steel to stainless steels, for joining dissimilar stainless steels such as 409 to itself or to 304L stainless, as well as for joining 309 base metal. CG-12 is the cast equivalent of 309. Some 308L applications may be substituted with 309L filler metal, but 316L or 316 applications generally require molybdenum and 309L contains no molybdenum.Type 347 stainless steel filler metal is ideal for 347 and 321 base materials because it matches these stabilized grades. CF-8C is the cast equivalent of 347. Type 347 filler metal is also suitable most 308L filler metal applications.Last edited by AndrewDavenport89; 06-02-2015 at 08:29 AM.