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Well, Last summer I picked up a cheap chop saw from TSC... Normally I try to avoid cheap chinesee tools, but this one was a floor model, so it was 75% off, and I couldn't say no...And it finally broke after a few months of hard use... The thing that holds the blade on is a very bad design, and it stripped, plus the whole saw shook like it was going to explode when used.And so, I started looking for another saw. I found this makita on Craigslist, that has only been through one blade in its life, and used for building a set of bumpers for a truck. The guy bought it new and finished his project, and hasn't used it since. I checked it out, and gave him his asking price of $90. Best $90 I've spent in a while...It runs smooth, its way more powerful than the one it replaced, and just has a much better feel to it... I'm happy [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:i like the secondary clamp idea, that is good.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:gotta love craigslist, I buy most of my stuff off here, nice score Bob
Reply:I've cut literally tons of pipe (2" Schedule 10 stainless and Schedule 40 carbon) with one of those. All it needed is 3 years of tech school staff and student abuse was a couple sets of brushes.
Reply:I too have one and it has lasted about 5 yrs now. I also use the clamp for miter cuts, keeps it from creeping. While all the other brands shout out their hype, I think these just sit back and do the job quietly. Well, maybe not quietly if your hand is on the trigger,LOL!!! MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:how long do these take to cut through something like you have posted in the picture?Millermatic 130XPTilesetter by Trade
Reply:Not long at all... It took me like 1.5-2 mins or so to cut that piece i think... Mine trips breakers all the time, so one can't push down too hard on it... I got in some more cutting time today, and i really like this saw...[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Nice find! My chop saw is also a makita but much older. Same design though and that thing is still running strong. these things definitely have some torque for making thick cuts.
Reply:i like the clamp idea..SIN CITY METAL WORKSvisit my YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/devvon
Reply:Originally Posted by wd40prerunneri like the clamp idea..
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03+1 On the bar clamp idea. My DeWalt will also trip the breaker if I bear down on the cut too much.Greg
Reply:a week ago , i cut the jaw off of that same xact orange clamp you have ther , clamping a small piece to the chop-saw.......bummed me out because that was the only american made sliding clamp like that i had.my Milwakee chop blows 20amp breakers thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Additional clamping is always a good idea when doing angle cuts with an abrasive saw.When using a dry cut saw (carbide teeth), additional clamping is CRITICAL. The toothed saws have a much higher tendancy to draw the workpiece into the cut. I haven't seen a dry cut saw (Porter Cable or Milwaukee) that can securely hold the workpiece for an angle cut with the built in vice.If it happens (work pulled into the blade) on a toothed saw, you'll need to do two things.1. Replace the blade because teeth will be missing and the blade is trashed.2. Change your drawers.Don't ask me how I know.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIAdditional clamping is always a good idea when doing angle cuts with an abrasive saw.When using a dry cut saw (carbide teeth), additional clamping is CRITICAL. The toothed saws have a much higher tendancy to draw the workpiece into the cut. I haven't seen a dry cut saw (Porter Cable or Milwaukee) that can securely hold the workpiece for an angle cut with the built in vice.If it happens (work pulled into the blade) on a toothed saw, you'll need to do two things.1. Replace the blade because teeth will be missing and the blade is trashed.2. Change your drawers.Don't ask me how I know.
Reply:LOL,Because I was cutting a 45deg angle on a piece of 3" angle when I go "edgemacated".Now I put a C clamp on the workpiece to vice.Generally, also put a second clamp on the workpiece, with the clamp firmly up against the end of the saw vice to keep the material from being drawn into the saw.Right after this all happened, I had to cut a 45 on a section of 3" x 1/4" box tubing. Went so far as to take the mig and tack a small tab on the tubing to act as a stopper against the end of the saw vice. Didn't pull that into the saw.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc. |
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