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ok so i go to tulsa welding school and im having trouble with my root pass, its 3/8 plate 45 degree bevel with about 3/32 land in running about 75 amps my 1st rod sets in beutifull i grind down to restart the next rod but its like the rod will snuff out on me or my weld will be real thin so i slow it down but then i stick and another problem im running into is im using a circle motion and sometimes its like im not going up the puddle doesnt solidafy so im just stacking metal in the back with out moving up and i end up with a big glob on the back of the plate sorry to have so many questions but i would like some help so i can better my self.
Reply:Welcome to the forum.Lincoln A/C 225Everlast P/A 200
Reply:thank you haha
Reply:I moved your thread where others are more likely to see it. A lot of guys don't bother to read intro's no matter what the title.Picts would help greatly. It makes no sense to me that you can run one rod perfectly fine, then have major issues with rod #2. Something is going on that I'm not understanding from your description.I see a lot of students who can make beautiful beads flat and horizontal, but fail miserably went they hit vertical. The reason is that they use "timing" patterns and that seldom work in vertical. You need to learn to see and read the puddle. If I had to guess, I'd bet this may be your issue simply from the number of times I've seen it in others. Another huge common issue I see with open root joints is prep. I'll often have students who have issues welding up open root bevel buts when they prep the pieces, but don't have those issues when I prep the coupons. The simply do not get the gap and land even and consistent. It often doesn't take much of a difference in the gap/land to cause real issues with the welds. Sure when you have more experience poor fit up isn't often too hard to deal with, but when you have limited experience, try and always stack the deck in your favor if at all possible.Picts will tell me a lot about the issues you are having. It also helps to know ALL the info. I'm guessing you are running 6010 on your root, but that doesn't ell me if you are welding the rest with the same rod, or something different. The more detailed info we have, the less we have to guess and the better the answers you will get..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:A couple things. Most people go with a 37 degree bevel or less. The combination of your 45 degrees and 3/32 land would give you less 'material mass' then most people weld at. Stick with what the majority use. Suspect your gap is closing after 1st rod. Make yourself a small wedge and position it half way up your vert to maintain consistent gap.Second rod sticks? Couple seconds of long arc to preheat before creating puddle.You say circular motion. Suggest trying a slight side to side weave over the feathered area to ensure enough heat for a good tie-in, then once you've pushed through, changing to a drag and then onto a straight up and down whip as the plate heats. The whip should only need to be a minimal distance...3/32 to 1/8 inch.
Reply:Im starting to like 30-degree bevels, 3/32 land, and use a 3/32 drill bit to set the gap. Run at least 75-amps. And the arc force all the way up.If I have to stop, Ill punch the rod all the way through the plate / pipe. This makes it really easy to get a good tie in when starting again. If the gap starts closing in on me, I point the rod forward. This allows the arc to cut in.If the gap opens up on me I point the rod back on already deposited weld. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:turns out i was running way to cold at like 65 amps i turned it up to around 76 arc force was on +2 it was welding it self haha thanks for the advice you guys. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:32:05