Want a lathe

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So I have decided I would like to get into a little more metal working...I started looking at lathes and soon realized I have no idea what to look for...I would like something decent with some tooling that i can learn on for around 500-700 if possible...thanks for the adviceMillermatic 252Syncrowave 200Kalamazoo 9AW
Reply:Originally Posted by jgarrettSo I have decided I would like to get into a little more metal working...I started looking at lathes and soon realized I have no idea what to look for...I would like something decent with some tooling that i can learn on for around 500-700 if possible...thanks for the advice
Reply:Used is what I'm looking for...I'm hoping to get a make/model recommendationMillermatic 252Syncrowave 200Kalamazoo 9AW
Reply:Look around for an old South Bend or an old Atlas.  The ways need to be smooth and the cross slide should be snug.  The rest can be rebuilt if needed.  Your budget is very low considering tooling will cost as much or more than the machine.  Stay away from soldered carbide tools since they are brittle and usually pretty poor quality.  Stck with indexable tooling, or grind your own HSS.  There are a bunch of groups in Yahoo as well as on the forums that support what you are attempting to do, Good luck and have some fun with it along the way and dont forget the pics too!BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Check out:http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/index.phpLots of info on different makes. Do a search first though....it's a subject that many have asked about before!Andrew
Reply:I picked up a Montgomery Ward (don't laugh its a pretty good small unit) lathe on ebay about 2 years ago for $98. Its the perfect machine to learn on. It was made sometime in the 40's by Logan. It is identical to the the Logan in every way, but most people see the Ward label and pass.... a few hours of cleanup later and i was making chips. cuts as smooth as silk. Added a QC toolpost and I was off to the racesI would look around for something that has a quick change tool post if possible. Even one of the chinese made quick changers is a big step up from the old post style holder. A decent kit is a couple hundred bucks on enco.. even more for something like an Aloris. Sometimes you find a nice package deal on craigslist and they don't even take into account the fact that they have a sweet Aloris post with a bunch of tooling that in and of itself could fetch a couple of hundred.4-jaw chuck is good to have too. I had to spend a couple of hundred to get a decent used one.For $700 you should be able to get a decent machine without a lot of tooling.... be prepared to wait a while, and if you see a good deal on a SB you gotta jump on it. I've lost out on a lot of $400-600 South Bends on craigs because I dragged my feet.ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:My recommendation is to purchase the largest lathe that you can accommodate in your shop. You will always come across a project that will be larger than your lathe can handle and you will wish you had a slightly bigger machine. Also, buy one that is turn-key, has no missing or broken parts and is ready to run. Qiuck change gears are a must. If you are a beginner that is just starting out, a machine such as 9” Southbend would be fine to learn on. They are the lathes that were in every high school metal shop and are mainly for instructional purposes. If you buy a 9” SB, there will come a day when you will want something bigger. So, you may want to consider buying bigger from the start. There are plenty of reasonably priced machines in the 12”-16” range. Buy bigger, you won’t regret it. I sold 2 lathes last year. A 12” Hendey for $650 that had belonged to my late father and an 18" Boye & Emmes (pics below)  for $750 that I needed to sell to make room for my fathers 20" Flather lathe.  I had the Hendey for sale here, but no bites. There are plenty of machines out there, you just have to look for them. Attached Images
Reply:To the guys with the big lathes,How do you get those monsters to your home and then where you want them once you get them there???Do you pay someone with a forklift to move them into position?
Reply:Flat bed trailer, engine hoist, lifting straps, blocking and pipe rollers once it's back down on the gorund.Google pics....Last edited by WyoRoy; 04-13-2011 at 02:50 PM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by WyoRoyFlat bed trailer, engine hoist, lifting straps, blocking and pipe rollers once it's back down on the ground.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749WFM, I seen your post on the rebuild of the Flather.Really cool. How you left your dad's info date on the inside was touching. I wish I had a dad who wasn't a total loser.
Reply:I don't want to hijack the thread. . .just wish to ask one question along the subject.  What does the 9" or 16" measurement refer to when you are looking at these metal lathes?  My experience is only with wood lathes and wood turning.  I have a couple of projects that require a metal lathe and am getting somewhat tempted to pick up an affordable piece of american iron to work with.
Reply:Originally Posted by candersoI don't want to hijack the thread. . .just wish to ask one question along the subject.  What does the 9" or 16" measurement refer to when you are looking at these metal lathes?
Reply:I'll start by saying I don't have one and have never used one, but I think it makes sense, given a limited budget, that one would be better off getting a smaller machine that is in better shape, than going bigger for the sake of doing work you may never do. I'm all for getting a machine to grow into, but I'd pick one that does the stuff I need to do at the time and is in better shape and/or comes with extra goodies, than get one that needs work and is more than what I need. You can always sell and up grade later. Less chance of getting in over your head too. And less floor space taken up unnecessarily. Just playing devils advocate here. Not making an argument. At some point, when the money is there, I'll be in your shoes J. No cue what I'm looking at and no cue as to tooling. I'll be reading up on them when the time comes. I'll be getting a 9x16. I do sculpture so it will be enough for what I do.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:One advantage to a bigger lathe is that they are generally more accurate.  The mass of the larger machine makes them steadier and you are less likely to get chatter.  If you have the room a 15 inch lathe makes a wonder all around size.
Reply:I bought a 12" Logan for $1500 about 6 months ago.  It has been a great first lathe to learn on.  It's easy to use, there is lots of information for it and Logan still sells parts for it, even simple stuff like way wipers.  It is sturdy enough to do good sized jobs but isn't unruly and doesn't have a huge foot print.  It's a 12"x 30" and is perfect for me.  Just FYI, tooling will far exceed the price of any lathe you get, so make sure you get as many tools, a tool post, and whatever else you can.  Mine came with a collet closer, a full set of Hardinge collets and a bunch of other knick knacks.  I drove 4 hours to pick it up with a trailer and got it loaded with two guys.  It weighs about 900 lbs.  I was able to move it around on furniture dollies pretty easily.  I spent about 2 hours at the guys house just going over how it worked and basic things.  I had never so much as turned on a piece of heavy machinery before.  Here is a pic right before I set it in place.  I'm really happy with it.  Another thing to consider, is 110 or 220V.  I have 220V in my garage, but most lathes (over benchtop size usually) are 3 phase.  Converters are around $100.There's a lot to take in to consideration for price too.  I'm in So Cal and there's not a ton to pick from.  I know people from other parts of the country get really nice lathes for free/cheap/scrap metal prices, just because of places going out of business/scrapping machines that still work fine, or whatever the reason.  I wanted something that worked perfectly well, so I could learn on it and not work on fixing it first.BTW...check out www.chaski.com/homemachinist and www.practicalmachinist.com.  The latter has a lot of good info but read first, as newb questions are not treated very kindly usually, but a ton of good info and far more going on daily than chaski. Attached ImagesLast edited by kazlx; 04-21-2011 at 04:29 PM.
Reply:Your question is too vague for starters.Your budget is too low unless you have a miracle happen.I suggest you save your money and find a machine that suits your needs.Buying a machine simply because it is big is NOT a good suggestion. Large diameter machines are HORRIBLE for turning small diameter parts and would be a total waste of space if you don't turn much large stock.I would consider swing no smaller than 12"-15" and a length of the working area no less than 36". Additionally, you will want an rpm range that will be below 50 on the low end and at least 1500 on the upper end. You will need a 3 and 4 jaw (mandatory) chuck, quick change tool post, all your various lathe tooling configurations, and very possibly a collet system.I have a Nardini 1440 (14" x 40") that is a gap bed and allows for much more swing if gap is removed (I will never remove it though). My rpm range is 25 - 2000. I can machine very small parts and large parts with ease.I use carbide insert tooling and this is great because it is straight forward and a time saver. In a nutshell, do your homework thoroughly before rushing out and buying the first thing you see. You will likely get what you pay for. Pay nothing, get a piece of _hit!!! Sve your money and buy something that you know works well and is tooled and you'll be way ahead of the game. I guarantee it!!One last thing, take a machinist with you to look at any potential machine. Their wisdom and imput will be very valuable.GrantLast edited by jackalope; 04-21-2011 at 08:23 PM.http://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:Originally Posted by jgarrettSo I have decided I would like to get into a little more metal working...I started looking at lathes and soon realized I have no idea what to look for...I would like something decent with some tooling that i can learn on for around 500-700 if possible...thanks for the advice
Reply:I bought a small lathe from harbor freight..Now Im constantly seeing old atlas/craftsman lathes on craigslist for like 500$...I like my lathe, but I was already wishing I had gotten a bigger one within the first week that I owned it
Reply:I can speak from experience on going small and cheap. My Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe was $180 with a burned out controller board. After the board repair and some tooling I was into it for around $300. The good aspect is its given me a nice start on learning lathe work and grinding tools etc. There is also a strong following on these little mini-lathes and more mods than you can imagine. Having a little lathe has been incredibly handy for countless projects and I have learned a lot but the obvious bad side is it SO DAM SMALL! The older Atlas and Craftsman's are the real solution IMHO.
Reply:Come up to NE Ohio its the dumping ground for used lathes right now. I have 5 in my basement. My buddy has rows of them in his garage for sale some real cheap. email me and i will give you his number...Bob [email protected] WrightSalem, Ohio  Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drillhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawking/1999 Miller MM185 w/ Miller 185 Spoolmate spoolgun
Reply:Originally Posted by WFMMy recommendation is to purchase the largest lathe that you can accommodate... Also, buy one that is turn-key, has no missing or broken parts and is ready to run.