'fishlips' type cut in tubing or angle?

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Looking into the future, I'm seeing a problem with the long side rails on my ATV trailer. They're unsupported for almost their entire length, and while the bolt-in plywood panels will add some strength, I'd still like to add a stiffening brace off to the axle post. The problem with that, is that the axle post is round.So, the simple definition of the problem is, how do I cut or drill angle so that it will align to a section of tubing at a 15, 30, or 45 degree angle? If possible, can the same method apply to tubing-to-tubing joins? (I may be thinking exhaust, I couldn't possibly say  )All steel is mild steel, angle in question is 3/16 thick 3/4 angle, pipe in question is approx 2.25" OD 1/4 wall (recycled center post - 1950s issue 'ten man' tent)
Reply:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800You can also google Fishmouth TubingEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:For round to round, you could plot it here:http://www.harderwoods.com/pipedocs.htmland trace the printout onto your tubing.
Reply:Broccoli: That is a thing of beauty right there. Thank you!rlitman: Very nice software there, though the table from Pirate4x4 should handle almost everything - it's getting printed out and put in the Book of Smarts.quoted for awesomeness, and to have a copy over here.Quoted from http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800, Pirate4x4 user TNToyHere is one from Marc Googer on www.Offroadfabnet.com :The chop saw method, if understood, is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is achieved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a piece of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elliptical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in both of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of both cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are both 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of both cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must also be centered on the tube.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit different size tubes together1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*What if instead of a "T" joint, I want the notched tube at a 15* angle with my first 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, which was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.Written by Marc Googer[Edited slightly for clarity by TNToy]
Reply:A more accurate way of coping the tubing is to use a notcher.  They are available from many sources and differing levels of durability and quality.  Once you have used one one time, you will never want to do it on a chop saw again.  I use mine in just about every project I build and it was a 69 dollar cheapie when I got it several years ago.  BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?