First post with set up questions and what I have etc

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Hi guys, I just bought these items and I'd like to know what's the best to use etc. I'll mostly be using this for TIG on steel and stainless.Well here is the power supply belowJust don't know what High Freq. stabilizer box to run off of it. The Miller looks like a much superior piece.or the Century one (less bells/whistles).....Tig torchAnd cart (I'll work on that.......
Reply:Where is the remote output on the Century? I know the Miller has an output for a foot pedal.
Reply:Not sure all the lingo yet. What do you mean? Originally Posted by TSCGG13Where is the remote output on the Century? I know the Miller has an output for a foot pedal.
Reply:Remote output hes probably referring to the foot pedal a HF tig machine has.Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:I guess that's all it has? The TIG torch came from the Miller machine and has a trigger on it for starting I assume instead of a foot pedal but the Century Arc stabilizer is all I have.
Reply:hello and welcome.Miller uses a foot pedal, but it's an on/off sort of thing and doesn't control the amperage like on a dedicated tig. I've never used that Century box, so I don't know. It may not have one and the HF is just for keeping the arc going for AC.HF isn't needed for steel. It's nice, but not required. HF is required if you want to do AC tig, but with no ability to control your amps with a remote, it is extremely difficult to do so. You are left with only 3 option for heat control, Arc length ( that's difficult to make things colder), travel speed ( where you already have to be moving pretty quick under "normal" circumstances with alum tig) and filler.If you want to try AC tig, have "fun" I'd suggest scheduling a visit to your cardiologist 1st for BP meds and tranqs. Frustration is a mild way of describing what you will be going thru.I've done a ton of "how to tig" posts. This is the 1st one that popped up. It will give you most of the basics that are in the majority of the posts. You may find it helpful once you get things set up.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ng-to-tig-weld.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for the 'How to' I'll have a read and then poke around and find some more of your posts. What I have to do first is just to get this thing up and running. What I'll need is to know what cable goes where and what switches/dials need to be set to as a baseline for steel (DCEN). The previous owner didn't have a pedal but has put a trigger switch on the torch handle. Would this be for starting the arc? Also I see the amp intensity is adjusted on the Century AC/DC buzz box but there is also a frequency dial setting on the Miller unit..........which one am I adjusting and why?On the Miller unit there is a 'High frequency knob'.........can someone tell me what/why to set it to? Start or continuous ? What about the Int./Ext. control switch on the Miller unit?
Reply:Start for steel/stainless and continuous for aluminum.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:One question answered couple more to go,thanks! Originally Posted by GravelStart for steel/stainless and continuous for aluminum.
Reply:OK start here... 1st link is to your exact unit. 2nd link is to the newer manual for a similar box.  The newer manual explains things a bit better as far as hookup.http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o611b_mil.pdfhttp://www.millerwelds.com/om/o611w_mil.pdfThat is the manual for your Miller HF box ( if not, you can look up the manual at Millers site using the model and your serial number. That should explain how the unit hooks up easiest. Only minor correction is the manual shows the use of the HF box with a machine that has a 14 pin connector socket, so there is an extra connection to the welder that you do not have. No big deal, ignore that 14 pin wire to the machine that would be for use with machines that allow you to adjust the amps with a pedal ( yours machine isn't so equipped) That's what the Int/ext switch is for. that would allow the machine to set controls using the cord and connections you don't have on your buzz box.Manual also explains the HF dial on the unit. HF intensity non the Miller box controls how powerful the HF arc start is. You want enough to start the arc, no more or you will have issues with interference with electrical items like computers and so on. More is not better here. This is how far the small "start" arc jumps to get the weld started, not the weld arc itself.On the Buzz box itself... "Also I see the amp intensity is adjusted on the Century AC/DC buzz box ". By this I assume you mean the squeeze lever on the front of the welder itself. This sets your welding amps. Miller has an online calculator to help figure out how many amps you need based on material thickness. Good rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001" of material thickness, so for 1/8" steel, you want about 125 amps, maybe slightly less since you don't have a pedal for control. It's easier to increase your heat using basic tig than it is to make things cooler. 115 amps would be a nice number, for 1/8", but you won't have super fine control with that system anyways. Trial and error will be your best bet once you get close. I can't help much with the Century HF box. I've never used one of those, but it should hook up very similar to the Miller unit.If it is all too confusing, you can bypass the HF box entirely for steel and not use it. Since you have it, I won't go into how to hook that up that way for now, but it is possible..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ok so I have a black and a red coming out of the Miller box.....where do they go into the Century box? I have a High , Low and a ground in one area and on the bottom there are 2 holes one with the DC/CC with a '+' and another hole with a '-'. Mainly for now this will be used for steel and stainless until I need it for aluminum.
Reply:Well, since it says DC/CC on the bottom two holes, they are your DC taps Hook your negative so that it goes to the torch.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 03-17-2014 at 09:51 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:You use the Miller HF box OR the Century box, not both together. You only need one. The units do the same thing. I'd go with the Miller since I think it gives you more options like the remote trigger.I have no idea why he had both. He might have gotten the Century one 1st, then upgraded to the Miller unit later. That or he bought a bunch of stuff at a sale that got lumped together because the seller didn't know what it all was..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou use the Miller HF box OR the Century box, not both together. You only need one. The units do the same thing. I'd go with the Miller since I think it gives you more options like the remote trigger.I have no idea why he had both. He might have gotten the Century one 1st, then upgraded to the Miller unit later. That or he bought a bunch of stuff at a sale that got lumped together because the seller didn't know what it all was.
Reply:The 2 Century pieces were bought as a package after I bought the Miller. I really just wanted the AC/DC Century unit as the power supply but it came with the HF unit. I'll sell it and get some money back for some consumables. Originally Posted by DSWYou use the Miller HF box OR the Century box, not both together. You only need one. The units do the same thing. I'd go with the Miller since I think it gives you more options like the remote trigger.I have no idea why he had both. He might have gotten the Century one 1st, then upgraded to the Miller unit later. That or he bought a bunch of stuff at a sale that got lumped together because the seller didn't know what it all was.
Reply:OK that makes sense. I was thinking you bought both together vs at separate times..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Finally got the cart home and plugged her all in. All it seems to do is just have a big arc when I trigger it on the torch. It wont even melt filler wire. I must have some connectors plugged into the wrong places. Also what do I have my Argon settings to? Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveWell, since it says DC/CC on the bottom two holes, they are your DC taps Hook your negative so that it goes to the torch.
Reply:Swapped over some wires and got her going. Kinda excited but I think this thing can't go low enough of an amperage for my sheet metal. I keep blowing holes through my work. I have the CFH at about 15-20. Any tips to help not blow any holes through my work ?Last edited by panel; 04-19-2014 at 09:42 PM.Reason: spelling
Reply:Best thing to do is learn with thicker metal until you are able to work your way down.Closer to 1/8" is better for just starting out.Run beads on plate, then move up to doing all the different joints - lap, corner joints, butt joints, flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead.Then work the same practice on thinner material, repeat till you can do the super thin stuff.It takes a really really long time to master tig - but it's worth it Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 04-19-2014 at 09:45 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.