.035" Tig Wire Identification? ER70-S2 or ER70-S6 ?

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Long story, short: I think I've mixed up a lot of 0.035" welding wire ER70-S2 and ER70-S6.  Is there anyway to tell 'em apart?  Obviously in the 1/16 and larger sizes, the material i.d. info is stamped on the wire.  That doesn't seem possible in the smaller diameters, though.  When I grab a handful of wires, I notice this very subtle silver colored zone EXACTLY 6 inches from one end. Is that intended as an identification tool? The fact that I don't see the same sort of finish on my 1/16 filler rods (which have stamped material i.d.'s), and the fact that this mark is exactly at the 6 inches from the end of the wire, suggests to me that this is likely an i.d. feature and not a manufacturing related issue. Does anybody have any 0.035" or 0.045" ER70-S2 and / or ER70-S6 wire around?  What markings do you see at the six inch point?  Does anybody know the secret code for small gauge TIG wire markings?? Many thanks, ZipPS... and yeah, I know I should have well marked individual storage tubes for this things (either with plastic or copper tubing). that's a project for next time. Attached ImagesLast edited by zipzit; 04-17-2014 at 07:11 AM.
Reply:Followup.  I spoke to the manufacturer's rep.  Those markings come from the wire cutting process, not an id mark.  No obvious way to tell -S2 from -S6 wire, sigh.
Reply:I can't identify the filler rods but if I were you I would use the S6 rods. The 6 stands for more cleaning properties during the welding process than the S2 rods, I find S6 rods weld better for me.Just my 2 cents from my experience.
Reply:S stands for silica which is what floats impurities to the surface. With tig the less you float to the surface the better. It will contaminate your welds and your tungsten. I only use s-2 for tig and s-6 for mig welding where it is not so critical. I would weld with both wires and see which one welds cleaner. Once you have that decided see if there is a visual color difference to help you separate them. If not I would put them all on the side and use them for spray paint hangers and go buy new. Wire is fairly pretty cheap.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:The "s" actually designates that the wire is solid. S-2 has a higher number of de-oxidizes, such as silicon, in it then the S-6 wire does. The S-6 weld puddle tends to be more fluid then S-2, so you might be able to tell the difference between the rods by welding with them.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:I use the -S6 for practice and things that don't matter.  -S2 for stuff that counts.  Now the whole batch is for practice.  No problem.  I need more practice.  After looking at the welding from MikeGyver @ www.UtahWeld.com, I need LOTS more practice.  Looking at that web site was a totally humbling experience.  (Wow, nice job Mike.)--Zip
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitI use the -S6 for practice and things that don't matter.  -S2 for stuff that counts.  Now the whole batch is for practice.  No problem.  I need more practice.  After looking at the welding from MikeGyver @ www.UtahWeld.com, I need LOTS more practice.  Looking at that web site was a totally humbling experience.  (Wow, nice job Mike.)--Zip
Reply:I tend to go to the S6 when there are porosity issues with what im welding.....As mentioned it flows out better and works where S2 has a problem.......Typically used for MIG, in fact thats where I get it from when I need it  (Cut a piece from the mig  spool)   Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CI tend to go to the S6 when there are porosity issues with what im welding.....As mentioned it flows out better and works where S2 has a problem.......Typically used for MIG, in fact thats where I get it from when I need it  (Cut a piece from the mig  spool)
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarI did that with one roll, and man that was a pain!  I still have like 100 curled up 18" long pieces I still need to straighten out!
Reply:Hmmmm I don't make a practice of Using S6... Only when I have a Porosity issue  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgbIt shouldn't be a pain, cut 3 to 4 feet off the roll and clamp the two loose ends ( make sure they are together) in a vice chuck the other end in a cordless drill and spin it and pull slightly on the drill at the same time. Get a nice tight twist without breaking it and you will have some fine filler rod. I do it all the time with .035 mig wire.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarYes of course that is a viable option.  I just wasn't thinking at the time.  Didn't realize it would be so time consuming--was thinking more like "I won't need to order "tig" rod when I can just cut up this whole 2lbs roll of MIG wire".  Turns out if you calculate it, a 2 lbs roll of 0.045" MIG wire gives you ~250 pieces you need to straighten out.
Reply:Not all tig wire is stamped. I generally use s2 for steel tig work. When I buy it, I have the option of buying it stamped or not stamped. The stamped wire costs slightly more.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:I don't see any difference in either one.Just grab some and use it....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:S-2 is gonna handle oxides & minor surface contamination better as the Ti & Al additions are very strong de-oxidizers as dan said above. I'm not sure of how much the zirconium does. Also the aluminum makes the filler sluggish.Get a coupon, clean it up, warm it up to blue/black color (oxidation) & spot a bit with the torch over the rod (I know this is the wrong way to weld...). Anyway see if you can spot the difference.I would add doing this with a bunch of rods would be nuts & like Zap said, just grab & go.Good luckMattLast edited by Matt_Maguire; 04-26-2014 at 10:58 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Matt_MaguireS-2 is gonna handle oxides & minor surface contamination better as the Ti & Al additions are very strong de-oxidizers as dan said above. I'm not sure of how much the zirconium does. Also the aluminum makes the filler sluggish.Get a coupon, clean it up, warm it up to blue/black color (oxidation) & spot a bit with the torch over the rod (I know this is the wrong way to weld...). Anyway see if you can spot the difference.I would add doing this with a bunch of rods would be nuts & like Zap said, just grab & go.Good luckMatt
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarI think you mean "S-6".  It has higher levels of deoxidizers than S-2 filler rod.