Electrodes for Fences?

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Anyone know if there's a good rule of thumb (or other way) to figure out which electrodes to use for building pipe fences? I know you're supposed to use a rod that's equal to or thinner than the base metal (such as a 1/8 or 3/32 for 1/4" metal), but how do I determine if I need an 60xx, 70xx, or higher?Currently working as a Paralegal, but still interested in hobby welding.Miller Bobcat 225ntOne- Character Fractions: ¼ ½ ¾ ⅛ ⅜ ⅝ ⅞
Reply:The first 2 numbers ( sometimes the first 3...) of the electrode type define the tensile strength of the rod. So, 60=60,000 lbs./ square inch tensile strength, 70=70,000, etc.For a fence, I'd say that 60XX would be plenty. As far as rod diameter goes, that would depend on the wall thickness of the pipe / tube. For 1/4" thick pipe, I'd use 1/8" rod, but 3/32" rod could also be used.RichLast edited by steelsurgeon; 09-19-2015 at 04:18 PM.
Reply:run whatever rod you like running the best.  Just be aware that some rods are restricted in out of position welds. 7018 really shouldn't be run downhill as I understand it (slag), I think same is true for 6013. I doubt if there is much benefit to using 7018 on a fence unless you like running 7018. Those are not mission critical/coded welds.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961run whatever rod you like running the best.  Just be aware that some rods are restricted in out of position welds. 7018 really shouldn't be run downhill as I understand it (slag), I think same is true for 6013. I doubt if there is much benefit to using 7018 on a fence unless you like running 7018. Those are not mission critical/coded welds.
Reply:If I had much pipe fence to build. I’d use an engine drive welder, LN-25 loaded with .045“ NR-212 self shielded wire.  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPIf I had much pipe fence to build. I’d use an engine drive welder, LN-25 loaded with .045“ NR-212 self shielded wire.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPIf I had much pipe fence to build. I’d use an engine drive welder, LN-25 loaded with .045“ NR-212 self shielded wire.
Reply:Is it pipe or drill stem for the fence? What machine are using? A fence isn't usually a very critical weldment. I'd probably use 6010 so I could go downhill and still get good penetration even if the pipe wasn't perfectly clean and shiny.
Reply:6010 or 6011 in 1/8 or 5/32" is what you want.
Reply:We used a whole semi load of 2-3/8" pipe building fence at my place. All welds were done with 5P+ 1/8" 6010. I love those rods. I use them for everything except when I need cover passes with 7018.
Reply:6013 vertical down - AC.  My kid did this in welding class."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveIs it pipe or drill stem for the fence? What machine are using? A fence isn't usually a very critical weldment. I'd probably use 6010 so I could go downhill and still get good penetration even if the pipe wasn't perfectly clean and shiny.
Reply:Sometimes I run ac with 6011s and it runs good. I weld a lot of 2.375 and 2.875 used oilfield tubing and it is sometimes magnetized. When I swap to ac, it burns fine with no problems. I normally run 1/8" Hobarts and also murex rods when welding that type of tubing. It still looks good and if I want it to look great, I will clean slag and run a 7018 3/32nd atom arc over it. I'm glad I have my bobcat welder. i run my 54 shorthood for just about everything else.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603Don't know yet. Does drill stem change things meaningfully?
Reply:6010 bro, best bet. If you are welding sucker rod to pipe use 7018, it will fall of in less than 24 hours if you use 6010/6011.
Reply:like this, for instance is 6010 on top rail to post and 7018 rod to post.
Reply:Cep, on the wire feeder and Flux core I once thought that was a great idea but I got over it. I have a 12vs and about 3 hours of it and I got my 6010 back out. The conditions have to be to particular for it to be fast and effective. Which takes an awful lot of prep time. Time is money in fence and if your spending a bunch of prep time you lose money, and if you go up you lose the work. That has been my experience any way, different for others probably.
Reply:Originally Posted by fencmakerIf you are welding sucker rod to pipe use 7018, it will fall of in less than 24 hours if you use 6010/6011.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveDrill stem is often magnetic which can make welding a little or a lot erratic at times and can cause arc blow. It's good material for a fence though.
Reply:Originally Posted by fencmaker6010 bro, best bet. If you are welding sucker rod to pipe use 7018, it will fall of in less than 24 hours if you use 6010/6011.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603So would AC welding help much with that? I'm told that AC doesn't have good penetration, but on the other hand we're talking fences here and not something that's going to be under a major load.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcWell, how do I explain that my dad's oilfield pipeline fence with SUCKER BARS on his property has held up now for 40+ years and it was all 100% welded with 6011's?
Reply:Can you use 8010G Rod? John
Reply:Thanks for the back up Bob, even with lo hi you have to do a good job or it could come loose.
Reply:Question, no intention to hijack the tread. Is the high carbon in the sucker rod what gives it the "spring" that it appears to have?Make sure I am following along the right path with yall, is "suckered rod" round bar stock?Ranger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup
Reply:It's called sucker rod and it is round. It's the rod that goes up and down on a pump jack operating the pump. I think it comes in  3/4" and 7/8". My former neighbor built a fence with drill stem and sucker rod. He torch cut holes in the drill stem for the sucker rod and welded them downhill with 7018. Disclaimer, he's a damn good welder and was using a 1957 short hood. He got the materials in trade for doing welding for a drilling company. They also supplied forged pipe caps which he roll welded onto the drill stem. The post pounder made the caps flat on top. I think a decent weld would hold no matter what rod was used. For the most part a fence just sits there.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobThey probably cut holes in the posts and stuck the rods in before welding. Either that or it was crappy rod as sucker rods are high carbon and will not hold up well unless welded with low hi rods.
Reply:Built rake similar to an arena rake except he uses it to drag around packed caliche and clay where he's trying to get native grass to grow.I used drill pipe for the frame and sucker rod for the tines. Used my mig wire (not flux core) on it, and he's yet to tear it up.Everyone around here uses drill pipe and sucker rod for all sorts of things and they run 6011 without incident. I keep hearing about the magnetism the pipe is supposed to have and the problems it causes while welding, but I haven't had that happen to me when using 6011.
Reply:Are you using AC current?
Reply:Originally Posted by fencmakerThanks for the back up Bob, even with lo hi you have to do a good job or it could come loose.
Reply:I'm sorry I offended you SuperArc
Reply:Originally Posted by fencmakerI'm sorry I offended you SuperArc