Need TIG welding help-heat control

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I am TIG welding practice beads on 1/8th inch plate. The plate has been properly cleaned an prepped. I am using a scratch start TIG setup: Hobart stickmate LX, DCEN, WP-17 torch, gas lens, 3/32 gold band tungstens sharpened to a pencil point. 1/16th ER 70 S2 filler. Argon is flowing 11CFH. I ran 4 beads, each on a cold plate, one at 50 amps, one at 70 amps, one at 90 amps, and one at 120 amps. Now I know the Hobart dial is notoriously inaccurate, so I am having trouble applying the 1 inch per thousandth rule. In fact, I pretty much think my best bead is the one with the dial at 70 amps. Note there is no pedal. the only heat adjustment is the front dial of the stickmate.questions:1. The bead at 50 looks too cold, 70 is the closest and 90 and 120 are definitely too spicy. Am I reading this correctly? I tried to speed up as I added amps, but it still looks too hot above 70.2. Is it just the amps, or could I solve this with a larger filler rod?3. Can the dial of the stickmate be that far off? or is it normal to be able to weld 1/8th plate at 70 amps?4. what else am I missing here?Thanks in advanceHere are the pics. Lowest amps at the top, increasing top to bottomLowest amps at the left, increasing left to rightMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:post a pic of you holding the torch at the angle you were using and at the arc length you were using.  If there is a problem it could be as easy as you adjusting a few minor things.  Another thing to consider is that you were running beads right along the edge of that flat plate and it is easier for it to get heat-soaked if you weren't moving fast enough.  As you can see there's quite a few variables that need to be accounted for. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Arc length is a big contributor to "heat". I see a lot of new tig welders who try and hold too long an arc length so they can see better. Same goes with using too much torch angle. You want to be down moderately close to the plate, say 3/16", and in some cases even tighter. Alum you back up a slight bit farther. If your arc length is longer, there's part of your heat problem.Yes the dial on the Hobart could be "off". Really tough to tell for sure when you are new. I have a Tbolt that is exactly like your  Hobart. I never trusted the dial. With stick ( all I used the machine for) I'd crank the machine to zero, then count up until I hit the place I wanted to be. The pointer helped get me close, but after a few times, I had a note book that I recorded "settings" on. So many full turns up from zero and then whatever partial from there. A bit of trial and error got me where I wanted to be and I tuned in by "feel". Tough I know when you are new and don't have those skills yet, but doing this you always come back to the same point, or really close. ( By "zero" I turned the machine down until the crank stopped).No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:tomorrow I will have my wife photograph the angles and arc length. I THINK I am keeping the torch almost perpendicular to the plate, and holding a pretty tight arc length (as taught by Zap). we will see if the pics back me up.  Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Like has been said, welding near the edge will cause the heat to build up fast. Just welding flat beads doesn't always take lots of amperage, try a T joint and see how the filler flows.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:The tungsten should stay between 1/8" and 3/16" MAX from the piece..They look almost too hot to me and I think you need to turn up your gas a touch..You REALLY need a pedal..Makes life so much easier...Glad to see you are still at it!Nothing like seat time....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Roger on the tight arc, I will keep an eye on that today. Momma bear gave me the morning off to play with the welders, so more seat time today. Getting a pedal means getting a new welder, and SWMBO has determined that this isn't happening right now. ;-)Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:If I were you I would turn up the gas to 15 or 20, like said above I think your long arcing it. Torch should be 10 degrees to work piece to get a good heat signature and keep the arc short. I use the same setup and after welding with it for some time I can weld 20 gauge with no problems. Just keep practicing.
Reply:Take III decided to start from scratch. re cleaned all the metal (this was an issue I am sure now), resharpened all my tungstens with a more tapered point, less crayon like, downsized form a size 8 cup to a size 6, and increased my argon flow ~11 to 15-17. Made a point of not leaning on my arms which was locking up my torch movements. Today's beads are much shinier, and not as flattened out. I really worked on torch angle and arc gap. I think these look better, while no where near acceptable yet. Man my torch is getting hot! On those last two coupons, I was trying the Jody Collier "steel exercise". Back and forth on a 2 inch by 3/8ths flat bar, swapping hands on every pass. I was running 90 amps for almost all of these. Interested in hearing what all the pros have to say.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:About 1/3 to 1/2 look cold. Best one I see is pict 3 left hand side, about the 3rd or 4th one down where you switched from moving left to right to right to left. It's the right to left one that looks pretty decent up until the very end on the left. I'll let that go since ending the weld with no pedal takes some time to master.It looks fairly well washed in at the toes and the consistency looks decent. You are welding a bit on an angle and the bead is pretty short, but those are minor things.I'd strongly suggest you skip the fancy changing hands thing right now. All it will do is complicate learning. 1st thing you need to do is get down the basics and learn to see and read the puddle. Juggling a bunch of variables all at once is just asking to make things as tough as possible. You won't be able to tell what does and doesn't work if you keep making changes all the time. Stick to the basics and get it all down. Then once you are there, if you want to switch up and go "backwards" it's a lot easier as you already know what you are looking for. K.I.S.S..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:What sort of welding machine are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BWhat sort of welding machine are you using?
Reply:exactly. I bought one of these from Amazon:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Clamp the stinger to the power lug, ground to the table, set her for DCEN, add an argon bottle and regulator and you are good to go. Old fashioned TIG welding at its best. No foot pedal, no torch switch, no pre flow no post flow. Strike an arc almost exactly like you are stick welding.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:its a very inexpensive way to learn to TIG weld, BTW.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Having never tried this I'm only guessing, I've been tempted to try with the Bobcat, might the learning be a greater challenge with such a machine. Zapster uses a pre historic prototype machine he bought second hand from Thomas Edison, his skill level makes it work. Tozzi has done videos of an engine welder TIGging pipe, showing off amazing skill. Like you, I too am a relative newcomer, I have found each upgrade of machine to make me look better. Zap, thirty years ago, didn't have the option of learning on a Dynasty. Had he done so, he might have perfected his craft in 5,000 hours instead of 50,000. Just one know it all's opinion, If someone wants to drive an antique tractor trailer with three in line transmissions, they should start on an automatic transmission Honda Accord. Once they are competent there, move on.Try a Dynasty, or if steel is your metal of choice, a Maxstar, it'll be easier.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961its a very inexpensive way to learn to TIG weld, BTW.
Reply:Bill, I hear you, but as I was just telling Al, my wife has me on lockdown for any big ticket item purchases right now And Argon goes a long way when you're just practicing. I would love to have a Miller 330 A B/P just like the one we learned on, but that would be a huge investment for me right now. Same for a dynasty, etc. I almost had her taled into that syncrowave in NH because I told her it was a once in a lifetime grab at that price (don't worry, I'll go to confession later), but that fell through too.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Watching Craigs list I see Syncrowaves  offered at surprisingly low prices. The one in NH seemed like a real steal. I called, ended up making an offer which he accepted. I ultimately rationalized I'd need a new power line to the garage, and backed away from it. I've never used a Syncrowave, I know it is formerly the best respected TIG machine in the world. Early Dynasty models were flawed, it took a while to work the bugs out. I can say the new Dynasty welders are incredible. If you want simple, go with pro set. Like a great camera, when you want more, it is there. I'm finding my obsession with aluminum grows. I'm experimenting now with pulse. The weld now happens in slow motion. I have time to synchronize each motion. Should you ever come North I'll show you.Please don't misread this, but Zap's welder is a dinosaur. No one but him could hope to get from it what he does.Last edited by Willie B; 06-08-2014 at 07:38 PM.