Turning a Jetski trailer into a Utility Trailer!

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Well heres my newest project. A buddy of mine just bought two new jetskis, bringing his total up to four. So not wanting to have to pull two trailers, he has almost finished his 4 jetski trailer. (I can add pics of that beast if you guys so truly desire) So I was able to pick up his old trailer for FREE. Anyway, I am going to turn it into a flatbed utility trailer. I am moving out to Oklahoma in two weeks to Transfer to University of Oklahoma and finish my last two years for my B.S. in Construction Management. The trailer is going to be used to haul the larger stuff that I cant get into the bed of my Silverado with the bed cover closed. Mainly my toolboxes, welding cart, compressor, etc. It has a single 3000 lb axle, and seems pretty well built. I will add a couple extra crossmembers for support of the 2x6's that will run the length of the trailer, but other than that it is a pretty well built trailer. (besides some pigeon poop from the previous owner of the jetskis) Anyway, I am just getting started on this build and so I hope y'all will follow as I get It done! I appreciate any comments, suggestions, advice, or anything that comes to mind from you more experienced guys out there. Thanks for looking guys!Rough dimensions of what will be the wood surface on the trailer will be about 12 feet long by 7 1/2 feet wide. There will also be a 2x8 or something of the like on the sides as well.  And here is the beautiful weld that the previous owner so graciously left me. Glad this was the only mods he did on the trailer.
Reply:I would add some support up by the neck of the trailer, And a couple side rails.Looks like it will make a nice little trailerReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Current Update:I was able to work on it some today and got the jetski mounts off the trailer. It was a breeze with my portaband! One of my favorite tools. took about 15 minutes to cut out 8 1/4" thick mounts that were about 6 inches long each. Cut just as cleanly on the last one as it did the first. Next up is to grind down the little bit of the mounts that is still left so the cross members are smooth, and work on getting the winches off. Then it is time to weld some more crossmembers and then the bed and sides go on! Thanks again for followin this project guys!Worth almost its weight in goldOne side is off!Both sides done!
Reply:Nice progress.   Portabands are great, didn't realize until I bought one.I would like to see pics of the 4 ski trailer if you got em.
Reply:Just a suggestion.  Don't forget to get A spare wheel seal and. spare set of bearings and races and Little grease.   I ruined 3 on our gooseneck about a month ago hauling some metal in three different trips.  Luckily I had bearings and grease in the tool box.  Looking good on the trailer.  Good luck with college
Reply:Originally Posted by Going nowhereNice progress.   Portabands are great, didn't realize until I bought one.I would like to see pics of the 4 ski trailer if you got em.
Reply:Originally Posted by Going nowhereNice progress.   Portabands are great, didn't realize until I bought one.
Reply:Nice job
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobI should probably get one purchased myself. Have borrowed a couple in the past and they are handy.That should make you a fine little trailer and the price was right!
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Nice job
Reply:Originally Posted by richey   A spare wheel seal and. spare set of bearings and races and Little grease.     Luckily I had bearings and grease in the tool box.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910Don't just put them in the toolbox, put them on the trailer.The average drive for that trailer was  a long highway ride getting the bearings nice and warm, followed by a dunk in the water.that's got to be bad for them.At least if you do them, you know what you have and when you did it.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75Thank you! I love your vette too! Looks like a 69? Gotta love those chrome bumpers! Mines the same color
Reply:Alright! Well newest updates:I Originally added my new crossmember in the front at 12 feet from the back of the rear crossmember so I could lay 12 foot boards down and not have to do any cutting. Well just like any project, things change. I was able to get a hold of as many 2"x10"s as I needed, for FREE, however they were only 10 foot boards. This did not phase me however, as i already came up with a solution. I added a second crossmember, this time 2 feet back from the furthest front crossmember, allowing me to lay the 10 foot boards down from end to end and fasten them. Then I will take more 10 foot boards and for the remainding 2 feet forward will run them from the left to right side of the trailer and be done with it. I know, not my first plan however I cant pass up the fact it was free. Here are some pics for you guys of my recent accomplishments, hopefully the pics will explain all that nonsense I just typed. I also took one of the hand winches that was used to pull the jetski on and repurposed it. Its rated for 1500 lbs, and even though I dont know what I would use it for since theres not a lot of leverage, I figured hey why not. All the metal used for this trailer is just scrap metal so Its not a big deal to me. Im putting these pictures up so you guys can have an idea of how I plan on laying the boards, and maybe even answer the question below. The outside boards will be cut to match the angle of the frame as it goes in towards the tongue now for the real question of the day... How would you guys fasten the boards to the frame? I dont really want to buy 60+ 6" long bolts to run through the board, frame and then put a nut on the bottom side, and I was looking for some type of self threading bolt but the biggest i could find was a #14 screw... Do I just bite the bullet and drill and tap each hole and run 2" long 3/8-16 bolts down through the frame? That is the best I can come up with. If there is a special type of self threading larger type bolt that I just cant seem to find anywhere? Any help or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated, I have a good amount of time and an already quite large collection of 3/8" bolts which is why I'm leaning towards tapping each hole... I would guess the metal is at least 1/4" thick but dont know forsure. I do plan on countersinking the head of the bolt/screw/fastener into the board to give me  a smooth surface. Thanks again guys
Reply:Trailer is looking good. Purchase trailer decking screws. These are driven with a torx bit in an impact wrench and drill and tap their way through both board and steel in a single operation. They however are a lot easier to drive if you drill a hole through the board and xmember first, then install them. Semi trailers use them exclusively to retain wood, or apitong flooring.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobTrailer is looking good. Purchase trailer decking screws. These are driven with a torx bit in an impact wrench and drill and tap their way through both board and steel in a single operation. They however are a lot easier to drive if you drill a hole through the board and xmember first, then install them. Semi trailers use them exclusively to retain wood, or apitong flooring.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75Perfect!!! That is exactly what I was looking for! I will definitely be doing that. I usually do drill pilot holes for every type of things I do like that but thanks for the tip anyway! How large are the screws?
Reply:I don't like the idea of screwing into the frame, as I spent lots of time repairing all those holes.they are the first point of rust and rot for me.I just layed the wood on top, then ran a couple of wood cross pieces underneath, wood screwed wood to wood.Some wood  screws through angle iron tabs into the wood to hold it down. and keep from shifting.
Reply:Trailer deck screws are indeed the way to go, BUTI can't be sure, but looking at the pics, it looks like your crossmembers are mainly rectangular tubing.  Might want to think twice before piercing them with screws.  Lets water in, and leads to rust.Lot of trailers have a thin piece of angle skip welded to the crossmember which actually takes the screw, not the crossmember itself."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910I don't like the idea of screwing into the frame, as I spent lots of time repairing all those holes.they are the first point of rust and rot for me.I just layed the wood on top, then ran a couple of wood cross pieces underneath, wood screwed wood to wood.Some wood  screws through angle iron tabs into the wood to hold it down. and keep from shifting.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75Okay well I ordered 200 of the trailer decking screws off eBay, they'll be here by Friday. I didnt think about the rust issue, So I will definitely be rethinking how I will attach it. Definitely will be using the screws I bought, Probably will weld some angle to the crossmembers and then screw the boards to the angle like Sam said. I will look at it tonight and decide what is going to work best. Thanks for the suggestions guys! If its worth doing, its worth doing right.
Reply:I would take some angle and run it so that I covers the front of the boards, weld it on. They lock the wood in, and you can just grind out the welds to remove them. Saves from drilling holes.
Reply:I use the deck screws on most of the wood deck trailers I build. I've never had a problem with rusting, but then I've always used thicker material that what you have. One thing you will have to be VERY careful of when screwing down the boards if you go into those thin wall tubes will be stripping out the screws. They like to strip out if the metal is less than 3/16" thick if you're not careful. If you go into the tubes and have 1/4" screws, use a 3/16 drill bit, if you use some thicker metal you'll need to be a bit bigger.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobWhat would your service life expectancy be for this trailer in practical usage? The reason I ask is my thinking is you will have moved to a different trailer by the time any rust issues arise. We built my son a similar sized tilt deck trailer using much the same construction as your project although a bit heavier in design for hauling two motorcycles or a motorcycle and jetski 23 years ago. It is still a solid trailer despite being kept out of doors under a tarp when not in use. Paint it good before assembly and it will last a good long time.
Reply:Canadian welding beat me too it! I've always used the angle iron approach for fastening trailer decks. No structural disadvantages over time from rusting holes, the boards have room to expand and contract, and you don't need to use 200 screws!But if you've already ordered them... Screw it to it and call it a day!Ps.. Trailer is looking good!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99Canadian welding beat me too it! I've always used the angle iron approach for fastening trailer decks. No structural disadvantages over time from rusting holes, the boards have room to expand and contract, and you don't need to use 200 screws!But if you've already ordered them... Screw it to it and call it a day!Ps.. Trailer is looking good!
Reply:Yes the trailer is definitely looking good.
Reply:They are not a regular stocking item at any hardware store I'll tell you for certain. When you can find them they are quite pricey so you have done well with the ebay purchase. Most any industrial hardware house can get them as can Redneck trailer supplies outlets. How long of screws did you purchase?SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobThey are not a regular stocking item at any hardware store I'll tell you for certain. When you can find them they are quite pricey so you have done well with the ebay purchase. Most any industrial hardware house can get them as can Redneck trailer supplies outlets. How long of screws did you purchase?
Reply:That 3/4 protrusion into what ever you decide to drill into will be fine. You only need a couple of complete threads protruding through the drilled material to realize full tension potential of the fastener. Being thin walled tube in your trailer, I'd be real careful about pulling the threads out the fastener cuts before your countersinking completes. The screws should be an 82 degree included angle countersink. Going into pine probably won't give any problems but a hardwood may.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Well a quick little update... I got the outside boards layed out and drilled, but cant do much more until I get the screws on Friday because I want to drill and screw them at the same time. I also will add a photo of one of my welds from the winch mount to feed your guys addictionReally bad picture, but tried to snap it on my phone before it got too dark. Just to give you guys an idea.
Reply:Better that I could do so you're good to go.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:When I got home from work, I had a nice present waiting for me on the porch! 200 trailer deck screws there ready to be used. So I got right to work. Started laying down the boards and started from both sides and worked my way inwards, so that my last board, the center one could be measured and cut on the table saw. My process for bolting down the boards went as follows: I laid a board down, then drilled the 6 3/16" holes , 2 for each crossmember all the way through both the wood and the frame. Then I would expand the holes in the wood out to 1/4", since this is the outside diameter of the screws holding down the boards. Then I would smoothly tighten down the bolts. I never had a problem with any of the bolts stripping the threads out of the metal as they were going in, my crossmembers were about 1/8" thick material, so relatively thin. I now just need to add the sides, I thought about getting some rectangular tube with the same inside diameter and the outside diameter of a 2x4" and then welding them on the sides as "pockets"  then building the sides and sliding them into the pockets and bolting them in. This is nice of you need to remove the sides a lot, however I do not see much use in that. So I have decided that I will just screw some 2x4's onto the side of the frame, and then I will screw the 2x10 side boards onto the 2x4's. here are some pics of the progress, I forgot to take pics as I was laying the boards. I was just trying to get the whole floor laid out before it got dark on me. Till tomorow! Thanks for lookin!
Reply:I've never used the lighter type screws you have but they will work fine in your application. Trailer has come along nicely and should suit your needs near perfectly. The twin drill trick is the same way I've done during that operation on decking. I usually have a helper, or if by myself, use a step drill stopping before the larger section starts cutting into the xmembers. You're getting close to time for the application of the world's best wood preservative for trailer decks, good ole waste engine oil. That deck will last 20 years. (maybe longer) if you coat it once per year. A brush and roller work fine, Just plastic tarp the driveway before applying a good coat. Let it soak in a few hours and wipe off the excess standing oil. Let it continue to soak overnight, then throw sawdust onto the trailer deck and broom it in to soak up any standing residual. If'n I may make another suggestion; I would not just screw your sideboards to the decking lumber but rather add an additional vertical support structure and horizontal steel railing around the top perimeter, (angle steel). Personally I wouldn't have a need for side boards but they could be useful for dirt, rock etc. The reason being is that loads always shift and if there is no steel support structure in place you will either bend the screws, rip them out of the wood, or break the wood if something substantial were to hit the sideboards during a shift. But then again maybe I'm trying to over engineer something again....What kind of decking are you using? From the photos it almost looks like reclaimed concrete form boards? If they are not treated lumber it would very much in your best interest to get some type of wood preservative in place quickly or the deck won't last but just a couple of years, (around here).SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobI've never used the lighter type screws you have but they will work fine in your application. Trailer has come along nicely and should suit your needs near perfectly. The twin drill trick is the same way I've done during that operation on decking. I usually have a helper, or if by myself, use a step drill stopping before the larger section starts cutting into the xmembers. You're getting close to time for the application of the world's best wood preservative for trailer decks, good ole waste engine oil. That deck will last 20 years. (maybe longer) if you coat it once per year. A brush and roller work fine, Just plastic tarp the driveway before applying a good coat. Let it soak in a few hours and wipe off the excess standing oil. Let it continue to soak overnight, then throw sawdust onto the trailer deck and broom it in to soak up any standing residual. If'n I may make another suggestion; I would not just screw your sideboards to the decking lumber but rather add an additional vertical support structure and horizontal steel railing around the top perimeter, (angle steel). Personally I wouldn't have a need for side boards but they could be useful for dirt, rock etc. The reason being is that loads always shift and if there is no steel support structure in place you will either bend the screws, rip them out of the wood, or break the wood if something substantial were to hit the sideboards during a shift. But then again maybe I'm trying to over engineer something again....What kind of decking are you using? From the photos it almost looks like reclaimed concrete form boards? If they are not treated lumber it would very much in your best interest to get some type of wood preservative in place quickly or the deck won't last but just a couple of years, (around here).
Reply:After all that planking/sides get put on you won't have much carrying capacity left.  Best regards, Bob
Reply:I wouldn't worry about sealer, just scrape the boards as well as possible and paint them with used oil as said. I never use treated boards unless the customer insisted and at least  for the trailers that I've done the non treated boards lasted as long or longer than treated. Putting the used oil on them will make them last 20 years and that's as good as treated ever lasts and there is no shrinkage problems to deal with.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjI wouldn't worry about sealer, just scrape the boards as well as possible and paint them with used oil as said. I never use treated boards unless the customer insisted and at least  for the trailers that I've done the non treated boards lasted as long or longer than treated. Putting the used oil on them will make them last 20 years and that's as good as treated ever lasts and there is no shrinkage problems to deal with.
Reply:Nice looking trailer. You did a great Job.  And who could pass up something free? If it's free I'll take it too. I coat my trailer boards with used oil as well. Good way to get rid of the oil when I change the oil in vehicles. Wishing you a safe trip to Oklahoma. Chad
Reply:No problem on the sideboards as I really was hoping it was a misunderstanding on my part. What you propose will work great to have something to bear against for lashing. Certainly wish you had a need for that trailer on the completion of your trip as there is a bit of work involved getting to usable status for you. However, you cannot lose with the dollar amount wrapped in the project. What part of OK are you headed to? I get down there more than I'd like.....SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobNo problem on the sideboards as I really was hoping it was a misunderstanding on my part. What you propose will work great to have something to bear against for lashing. Certainly wish you had a need for that trailer on the completion of your trip as there is a bit of work involved getting to usable status for you. However, you cannot lose with the dollar amount wrapped in the project. What part of OK are you headed to? I get down there more than I'd like.....
Reply:I spend quite a bit of time at the aeronautical center on south MacArthur in OKC.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....