lincoln ac225 not working

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I told some of you that I found a cheap welder...  well I finally got the electricity run today and it wont weld. It comes on and buzzes but wont actually weld.  not a spark or anything.  the cooling fan doesn't work either.  I've checked the wiring and am getting about 240 volts at the plug. getting 40-80 volts at the negative to positive lead connection point for the output.   checked the leads and they are ohming at at 0.0 One of the wires that the fan connects to has a wire that is not connected to anything see the photo below.the wires that lead off camera are going to the fan. you can see the wire not connected to anything near the bottom of the power switch.Any help would be appreciated.
Reply:Well that sucks!Fan is likely bad and the PO disconnected it and then may have overheated the transformer.Unplug the machine and check for continuity across the two transformer input leads from the power switch.  Also check between each primary lead and transformer body.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:duane, the fan is not disconnected it is just not working.. will run those tests you mentioned.
Reply:Being an AC only machine, your leads are not (+) and (-) but rather WORK and STINGER.It's interesting that you're getting an OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) between the weld leads but not even a spark when you attempt to strike an arc.OCV should be 75+ volts AC so there's definitely an issue with the x-former.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:the black wires attached to A and B are connected to the fan and are the bottom side of the switch and the only taps to the transformer. .  When an ohm meter is places on A and B then it reads 0 ohms... when between A and C and B and C its infinite.  I didn't disconnect A and B from the switch but I can if I need to. I kind of think I should as that could give me a false connection. I cannot disconnect the loops for A and B from the taps to the transformer as I don't have a soldering iron but can get one if needed. what do you think?the loose wire next to B is labeled H2 and H3 is connected to BLast edited by calixt0; 07-04-2014 at 06:14 PM.
Reply:90+% of the time these issues are related to improperly wired connections. You say you checked and you have 220-240v at the "plug" ( I assume you mean outlet) How about inside the unit? Check the power at the switch. On the input side of the switch, you should have 220-240v power checking both lines. If you are good there, flip the switch and check the voltage on the output terminals. Again you should have 220-240v. If you don't at either location, then we know where the problem lies. If it's before the switch, it's a plug/outlet issue. If you are good to the switch, but don't have the power afterwards, it's a switch issue. Check these 1st before going any farther.I can't tell you how many times guys say that they are good as far as power, only to later find out they didn't check all the connections..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW90+% of the time these issues are related to improperly wired connections. You say you checked and you have 220-240v at the "plug" ( I assume you mean outlet) How about inside the unit? Check the power at the switch. On the input side of the switch, you should have 220-240v power checking both lines. If you are good there, flip the switch and check the voltage on the output terminals. Again you should have 220-240v. If you don't at either location, then we know where the problem lies. If it's before the switch, it's a plug/outlet issue. If you are good to the switch, but don't have the power afterwards, it's a switch issue. Check these 1st before going any farther.I can't tell you how many times guys say that they are good as far as power, only to later find out they didn't check all the connections.
Reply:thanks for all the help but its working now... I  think my small 3/32 rods weren't making a good connection in the stinger.  Well I'll buy a good stinger and new ground/work clamp and see what a fan and motor will cost.
Reply:So we're back to awesome deal!I have to admit, I was a bit stumped when you said it would hum (typical of these machines) but wouldn't even spark.  Glad you got it figured out.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:so this leads to the next question... what should I look for in a new stinger holder... I'm planning on replacing the ground clamp with this http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...amp-66708.html but have no idea on where I should start looking for the stinger handle.
Reply:Originally Posted by calixt0so this leads to the next question... what should I look for in a new stinger holder... I'm planning on replacing the ground clamp with this http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...amp-66708.html but have no idea on where I should start looking for the stinger handle.
Reply:HF is over priced and no quality on welding stuff . clean up your stinger and ground reconect wire might help .C lamps or Vice grips are better grounds too.
Reply:Go to lincolns web site and download manual for your welder, need code off tag.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcYou could simply go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a Lincoln brand 200A stinger, which is what comes with those AC buzz boxes.  Or, I LOVE the Tweco 250A stinger....
Reply:is there any advantage from the tweco style ground clamp and these from lowes lincoln branded http://www.lowes.com/pd_367004-1703-...age%3D1&facetI
Reply:Originally Posted by calixt0is there any advantage from the tweco style ground clamp and these from lowes lincoln branded http://www.lowes.com/pd_367004-1703-...age%3D1&facetI
Reply:I know alot of people don't like harbor freight welding stuff but I don't see a lot that can go wrong with the work clamp I mentioned above? not trying to argue just wanting to know what could go wrong with something so simple... I wouldn't be replacing the one I have if it wasn't so corroded.
Reply:What's the jaw opening on that HF clamp?"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I don't know
Reply:I think the one I have like that came from HF and it opens almost 2.5".GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by calixt0I know alot of people don't like harbor freight welding stuff but I don't see a lot that can go wrong with the work clamp I mentioned above? not trying to argue just wanting to know what could go wrong with something so simple... I wouldn't be replacing the one I have if it wasn't so corroded.
Reply:I also have a harbor freight ground clamp and it's been good.  Strong spring holds well.  No complaints about it.
Reply:Originally Posted by copeOP, you can buy the Tweco electrode holder and Tweco ground clamp that the one from HF copies as a set on eBay.
Reply:Originally Posted by calixt0I've seen a bunch that are tweco style but not tweco brand