New to TIG. Help me improve

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Hey guys. I just picked up a Diversion 165 and I am hoping to use it to fabricate some cool stuff. I did a little TIG at school and got to use a TA185 for a few days but I am inexperienced overall. I enjoy doing work on my own cars and would love to do some automotive related fabrication. I got started on some aluminum stock and practiced a few lap joints. I'm having a tough time getting the puddle started on these. I also have to regrind the tungsten because I touch the  aluminum a lot. Please give me some constructive critacism. This was my best one. I don't know why I brushed it after. I'd love to get better at this so any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Reply:Looks like you want to get good at aluminum.Step #1.  Throw out all those 1"x1" scrap pieces and get yourself some LARGE 8"x8" pieces or larger if you can.  Those pieces are so tiny that you will overheat the whole thing before you even get to the end of the weld (this affects the weld joint because you're not in control of the heat anymore).  Even larger pieces like the ones I'm suggesting you'd need to cool down between beads because the whole piece will get piping hot it's like you inadvertently cranked up the amperage, which you won't be able to do once you try and start doing actual projects which will likely be a lot bigger than those pieces.  The [large actual projects] likely won't heat up as quick, and you'll wonder why you're having such a hard time starting up a puddle to get the bead going.Lastly, if you posted up some of your machine settings and which parts you're using, you could also get some useful advice there. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarLooks like you want to get good at aluminum.Step #1.  Throw out all those 1"x1" scrap pieces and get yourself some LARGE 8"x8" pieces or larger if you can.  Those pieces are so tiny that you will overheat the whole thing before you even get to the end of the weld (this affects the weld joint because you're not in control of the heat anymore).  Even larger pieces like the ones I'm suggesting you'd need to cool down between beads because the whole piece will get piping hot it's like you inadvertently cranked up the amperage, which you won't be able to do once you try and start doing actual projects which will likely be a lot bigger than those pieces.  The [large actual projects] likely won't heat up as quick, and you'll wonder why you're having such a hard time starting up a puddle to get the bead going.Lastly, if you posted up some of your machine settings and which parts you're using, you could also get some useful advice there.
Reply:100 amps is way to low if the material is 1/8" like it looks ( why it's important to list ALL the pertinent info, amps, material thickness etc.)You should be up around at least 150 amps, if not higher. Alum is a wonderful heat sink and if you try to weld low and slow, all you do is heat the whole piece up until it all reaches welding temp. Tiny material won't help any. With something that small, it's even more important to have the amps cranked way up and fly once you start welding, so you out run the heat build up in the material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thank you for the tip, yes I believe it is 1/8" material.  I will attempt more amps and faster movement!
Reply:1/8" you definitely want to be up at or above 150 amps. I'd max your machine and do it that way myself. I can back down faster on the pedal though than you can. At the tech school we set the machines at 150 and let the guys floor the pedal. It takes a slight bit longer to get the puddle to form, but they don't have to back down quite as drastically as they go right away.I prefer to have students learn the basics of heat control 1st on steel which tends to be easier than on alum. Once they get steel down, it's usually not to hard to transfer to alum..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Turning it up helped immensely all around!  Welds are shinier and the whole process seemed much easier.Material 1/8" aluminum plateSettings:3/32 2% Thoriatied Tungsten150 amps15 CFMAttempted to move 1/8" at a time and dip.  Had to stop and re clean the aluminum and regrind the tungsten every time I touched it to the aluminum or filler.1st weld: tried to jam on the pedal touched about half way through and re-cleaned metal2nd: same technique, touched filler at the very endDon't mind the dirty portion at the top of the photo, I rested the hot metal on something adhesive on my work bench by accident.1st: from earlier2nd: went a little slower on this one. not too happy with it3rd: picked up the speed and stepped on the pedal, had a small touch 1/3rd of the way in and re-cleaned/re-ground
Reply:Watch Jody from Weldingtipsandtricks.com.  Specifically his aluminum tig videos. When I tig Aluminum, I've gotten into the habit of pulling the torch up and back when I dip filler rod.  Unlike steel, the puddle on aluminum likes to grow up into your tungsten.  If you want to keep a short arc length, as you should, you really should get into the habit of above.  You will see what Jody does in his videos.Also, sharpen ten tungstens at a time.  Swap tungstens after dipping and regrind all at once. I know it's total common sense, but I did t realize this when I started.  I used to stop and grind everytime.  Buy some 2% lanthanated blue band tungsten.  Once you get more seat time and more bead length with the same tungsten, the reds start to get little finger projections on the tip.  The blues are good on both AC and DC and there's no risk of the debatable radiation exposure from the thorium.Last edited by Drf255; 06-16-2014 at 05:41 AM.
Reply:I have watched Jody's videos and learned a lot.  I bought some 1.5% Lanthanated (all my LWS had) and have been experimenting with it.  I will post some more pictures soon.
Reply:Hey guys, just an update on how I've been progressing:I've got the aluminum coming along.  1/16" thickness 3" dia. aluminum tube1/16" 1.5% Lanthanated Tungsten90 Amps20cfm gas coverage#8 cup with medium gas lensI have to work on getting the metal cleaner and welding longer beads on tubeNow my latest issue is with stainless.  I measured this scrap piece of 304 tube at about .080".  For whatever reason I cannot get a bead to rise above the base metal unless I run (what I think is) way too cold, if that makes sense.  Everything is undercut.  I have tried from 35-100 Amps and different techniques.I have numbered these 8 welds like this1                       52                       6 3                       74                       8All welds were with:1/16" Lanthanated Tungsten20CFM Argon1. ~70 AmpsNo filler2.~70 Amps.035 filler added3.~50 Amps.035 filler added"pulsed" with pedal4. same as 35.~80 Amps.035 filler added6. same as 57. ~80 Amps.035 Filler addedpulse with foot pedal8. ~50 amps.035 filler addedpulse with foot pedalI think #7 is my best result so far, but I'm still not very happy with it.  Please let me know what you guys think.  Thanks Last edited by LKSi; 07-04-2014 at 01:20 AM.
Reply:Wow!Much improvement!Try terminating your welds more slowly to prevent the craters. Other than that nicely done. Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Yup, that aluminum welding looks good from here!As for stainless, 0.035" is a bit too thin for 0.080" wall tube.  Generally speaking, you want the filler rod just a smidge thinner than the wall thickness, but not too thin.  You'll either have to literally jam a lot more wire into each puddle to freeze it, or use some 0.045" or 1/16" filler so you won't have to advance the filler through your hand so often.  For the amperage, I'd set it to 80A and adjust as necessary.  50A is way too low---you'll just take longer to move the puddle along and you'll overheat the base metal which causes that gray graininess in the weld bead.  As with the aluminum pieces, make sure you cool the piece first before moving on to the next bead.  The "left over heat" will act as if you bumped up the amperage and you will not be in control of the heat input anymore. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Ok, I got some 1/16 308L filler and tried welding on my scrap 3" 304 exhaust pipeSettings:80 Amps1/16 1.5% Lanthanated 1/16 308L fillerpulsed with pedalI have to work on the slow stops as suggested so I can get rid of the fisheye.  I also noticed that some of the weld is still a bit undercut.  Is this from too much heat?Some undercut:Any tips on helping me get that flush "stack of dimes" look?  Thanks!
Reply:It's a combination of heat and torch angle.  I know because I am trying to work on the same things.  Ease up just a tiny bit on the pedal, but in order to truly isolate the issue, you need to try to adjust the torch angle to make sure it is not changing as you're making your way around the tube (easier said than done, I know, lol).  Changing the torch angle is the same as inputting more heat because the more "slanted" the tungsten tip is, the longer the arc length you force, because the arc doesn't just come "straight down" to the tube, but rather slightly in the direction that the torch is pointed at.  One thing that helped me was instead of trying to do 20 dips, do only 5-8 dips instead.  You will be less likely to change the torch angle as much when you do ultra short runs.Last edited by Oscar; 07-04-2014 at 11:21 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Yes, I know that is definitely part of it.  Thanks for the tip.
Reply:Well I'm improving. Hopefully I'll be able to do a lot more tomorrow now that I have a day off. This was done with80 AmpsPulsing pedalGot a lot more flush dime looking welds. The good thing is I am getting 80-90% penetration. Last edited by LKSi; 07-06-2014 at 12:42 PM.
Reply:To reduce undercut, drop a few amps, try to get the footpedal amps low and steady enough to reduce, then eliminate, the manual pulse. Torch 90 deg to the weld.Your last pics didn't load for me?Last edited by Brazin; 07-06-2014 at 12:34 PM.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:I fixed the pic. I will try your suggestion. Hopefully I'll be able to run a lot of beads today.
Reply:Originally Posted by LKSiWell I'm improving. Hopefully I'll be able to do a lot more tomorrow now that I have a day off. This was done with80 AmpsPulsing pedalGot a lot more flush dime looking welds. The good thing is I am getting 80-90% penetration.
Reply:Thanks for all the tips so far. I am improving!
Reply:That is very good. Nice progress. Do you have the ability to purge the inside? You will notice that things get real good in a hurry on stainless. Now go back to alum and notice how good you got at it all of a sudden. Jumping back and forth between AC and DC takes you out of your comfort level enough to pick up new techniques that you can put into your arsenal.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Oh and shame on you for picking a Diversion to learn on. That is just too easy. Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:So what kind of automotive stuff are you gonna make? Originally Posted by shovelon I see guys actually freezing the puddle between pumps and it drives me crazy.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonThat is very good. Nice progress. Do you have the ability to purge the inside? You will notice that things get real good in a hurry on stainless. Now go back to alum and notice how good you got at it all of a sudden. Jumping back and forth between AC and DC takes you out of your comfort level enough to pick up new techniques that you can put into your arsenal.