Letter/Number Punch question

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Thinking of getting a letter & number punch set.  But have a couple questions1. Can the punch be used in an arbor press instead of me having to hit it with a hammer?  (Pressure instead of impact?)  Will the result be clear and acceptable?  (I use this method already for other dies so my arbor press is already set up to accept punches).2.  Is a backing used under the metal being punched?  If so, what?Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Should be easy to do. I would rig up some kind of a holder where you could stack them straight and then punch the whole name/number at one time. two plates with one end solid and other with a screw to hold them in place and some sort of plate to attach to your press. Should work fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by MonicaThinking of getting a letter & number punch set.  But have a couple questions1. Can the punch be used in an arbor press instead of me having to hit it with a hammer?  (Pressure instead of impact?)  Will the result be clear and acceptable?  (I use this method already for other dies so my arbor press is already set up to accept punches).2.  Is a backing used under the metal being punched?  If so, what?
Reply:Yes, you can use an arbor press.
Reply:Thanks yall.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Monica, you know you never cease to amaze me,  You just keep on keepin on and play the deck you were dealt.  It is a source of continuing inspiration to other disabled folks like me.  If Monica can do it, I darn sure should be able too.  Keep up the great work and shoot us some pics of your finished break and whatever you have going that is new.  Lots of folks would love to see it.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Thanks Bob   Here's what I needed the brake for:Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I would not used plywood behind what you are stamping you will end up with a dent in the metal.  Use a hard surface as you want to emboss the metal with the letter/number A press will work but you will need to apply equal pressure on all the letters/number. Maybe a 1" solid square bar on top of your group of stamps.
Reply:If you have the bigest arbor press made and you use a four foot cheater, you might get an impresion.  depends on how many letters you put together at one time.  You'l see, Mac
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterI would not used plywood behind what you are stamping you will end up with a dent in the metal.  Use a hard surface as you want to emboss the metal with the letter/number
Reply:You could also try sticking each stamp next to a stout magnet to hold it vertical. Magnet can also be on top of a steel strap for stability if needed. You'd be hitting the stamp, not the magnet.
Reply:Originally Posted by Tool MakerIf you have the bigest arbor press made and you use a four foot cheater, you might get an impresion.  depends on how many letters you put together at one time.  You'l see, Mac
Reply:When I said an arbor press could stamp your metal I was thinking of the light gauge id plates that you stamp and then weld or rivet to your work.
Reply:Here is a tool I made many years ago to hold stamps and keep them aligned.  It keeps them flat to the surface and had cross hairs for spacing of the letter/numbers. Draw a line for the stamps marking the distance between letters on that line.   Then you would clamp a straight edge the correct distance from the stamp line.  Install a stamp in the holder and line up the notched of the cross hairs on the line slide it along the straight edge.  Align it with the position of the first letter/number and whack it.  Repeat with other stamps to finish stamping line.Have funTom   Attached Images
Reply:I really like that.  You're making me think if a 1/4" socket in my junk drawer could be put to that use for my 1/4" stamps.
Reply:I have used a set of number and letter stamps on a press to make part numbers for Western Star truck parts.  If you use a set keep the set together and do not use for anything else.  As individual stamps are used the ends start to mushroom and the heights change...  you end up with one or two figures being slightly shorter and those will not show when set in the holder attached to your press.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungWhen I said an arbor press could stamp your metal I was thinking of the light gauge id plates that you stamp and then weld or rivet to your work.
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterHere is a tool I made many years ago to hold stamps and keep them aligned.  It keeps them flat to the surface and had cross hairs for spacing of the letter/numbers. Draw a line for the stamps marking the distance between letters on that line.   Then you would clamp a straight edge the correct distance from the stamp line.  Install a stamp in the holder and line up the notched of the cross hairs on the line slide it along the straight edge.  Align it with the position of the first letter/number and whack it.  Repeat with other stamps to finish stamping line.Have funTom
Reply:i wonder if you could use the anvil from an air operated impact hammer to do this, line it up in some sort of clamped jig like the picture of the round jig and then use the impact to hammer it?bobs77vet/37ford4drEastwood digital TIG200HH190Lincoln Invertec 155sLincoln weldpak 100sears/craftsman (lincoln) 50a 240v buzz boxO/A rig Harris gaugesnexion cut 50 dxchicago electric (HF) 240v spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by 37ford4dri wonder if you could use the anvil from an air operated impact hammer to do this, line it up in some sort of clamped jig like the picture of the round jig and then use the impact to hammer it?
Reply:Put that cool tool acourtjester made on the end of a slide hammer, or better yet for one-handed use make a square rod and weld some plates to give a square hole so you can twist the sliding weight to align the stamp.A slide hammer would have ample force. Two round rods and a weight with two holes would also work.
Reply:acourtjester, very nice jigs for the stamps.    Thank you for posting them.farmall, that's a perfectly sensible idea, mating the slide hammer to the jigs like acourtjesters. Would the slide hammer weight bounce too though?  Would that be something to be aware of?On the topic of bouncing hammer on a punch, that's exactly why I went to the arbor press.  I kept getting shadows on my leather even using a deadblow.  I'm certain it was my technique as I couldn't hold tight the punch.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:well if you could figure how to use a dead blow hammer with the slide hammer there would be no bouncing....have to think about that one....maybe have the weight on the end of the slide instead of the middle like a conventional slide hammer, bobbobs77vet/37ford4drEastwood digital TIG200HH190Lincoln Invertec 155sLincoln weldpak 100sears/craftsman (lincoln) 50a 240v buzz boxO/A rig Harris gaugesnexion cut 50 dxchicago electric (HF) 240v spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungI love this idea
Reply:well if you could figure how to use a dead blow hammer with the slide hammer there would be no bouncing....have to think about that one....maybe have the weight on the end of the slide instead of the middle like a conventional slide hammer, bobIf you haven't bought the press, maybe do a google search for "treadle hammer" Some of them are quite simple and not very large. Given your unique requirements, getting a leg in might be a good thing. And the treadle may be more versatile that a press. Make a holder like Jesters( nice one by the way ) with a set screw to hold the punch in it. Then hold the jig with vise grips so your fingers aren't in the danger zone. Treadles are pretty accurate and with a bit of practice you get the feel for how much you need to stomp down for a give application. Given that you need the hand for holding the tool, I'd recommend a table surrounding the "anvil" of the hammer to hold up and clamp the work piece to. You could use a sledge hammer head for the "anvil" and one for the hammer. No handle of course. Make them both removable in case of needing to be replaced. For the hammer one, you could cut/grind different shape/pattern heads for different jobs. A cross peen hammer, for example. Could even use the treadle hammer for embossing thick leather too, I'd guess( uneducated guess, of course )Just thinking out loud.Oh, and the treadle hammers can be put on a pair of wheels to be moved out of the way. Just tip back and roll.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:farmall, I appreciate the details for ideas.  They help.  bert, I already have the press, not a big one.  Just a small 1T in my leather shop.  I looked up treadle hammer.  Those things are neat and big too.  Wouldn't have room for it in garage...and DH would kill me.  Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Right-o. You can make them smaller. But use what you've got. It's always less money! 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Bert, you're right.  I found some smaller treadle hammer builds on some sites. Quick question on punch sets, is there any certain brands that are generally better than others?  I'm thinking the first use will be for some socket holders.  Guess I need numbers as spelling out the size would take up too much room Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Originally Posted by MonicaBert, you're right.  I found some smaller treadle hammer builds on some sites. Quick question on punch sets, is there any certain brands that are generally better than others?  I'm thinking the first use will be for some socket holders.  Guess I need numbers as spelling out the size would take up too much room
Reply:Just a thought Monica, Google "steel type holder" and shop. You can get the holder with a shank to fit your small arbor press, hang a weight on the press handle and give the ram a sharp blow with a 3lb leather or wood mallet.These little fellas are sharper than the individual square type stamps and mark easier. They are cashy but also are one of the few things I've seen out there that hold value like "Snap-On" tools at auction.The sets come with multiple letters and numbers (like 4 "E's" etc.) and make short work of things.Matt
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderDon't know. I've got cheapy ones and no problems so far. However, I don't use them a lot. I would hope that US made ones would be better steel, but who knows. I think using a holder that keeps them square to the surface also helps them last longer. Letters/numbers don't deform as fast from striking at uneven angles. Just a theory on my part.......but sounds good