plugging a hole in 3" diam x 2" long 1008 steel (hopefully)

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Was hoping I could plug this hole with my 175A MIGIs it even possible with pre-heat, or is 175A just not enough juice regardless of preheat? 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:I've plug welded many holes like that but I used 7018 stick.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:If you just mean to fill the hole, your machine is ideal.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2If you just mean to fill the hole, your machine is ideal.
Reply:You could always turn a plug that is 0.002 larger that the hole. put it in the freezer,Put the base metal in a 100 degree oven, Pull them out and press them together.When the temps normalize there is no way to get the plug out. If you bevel the edge, you could put one bead around to fill the groove in and make you feel better.How to fill a hole depends on why you need it filled. cosmetic or structural and what tools you have.
Reply:I Originally Posted by ccawgcYou could always turn a plug that is 0.002 larger that the hole. put it in the freezer,Put the base metal in a 100 degree oven, Pull them out and press them together.When the temps normalize there is no way to get the plug out. If you bevel the edge, you could put one bead around to fill the groove in and make you feel better.How to fill a hole depends on why you need it filled. cosmetic or structural and what tools you have.
Reply:Why not fill it in with tig? Just watch the bottom of the hole (assuming it isn't too deep) to make sure it puddles and start adding filler.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Or turn the plug on his lathe and tap it before it goes in...GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugWhy not fill it in with tig? Just watch the bottom of the hole (assuming it isn't too deep) to make sure it puddles and start adding filler.
Reply:I'd lean towards TIG, you'd be able to observe the quality of fusion as you fill, instead of "spray and pray" with MIG. Pre-heat might help keep things flatter, but not needed for a solid weld.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Preheat it, then Mig it and be done!
Reply:I'd suggest drilling a similar sized (and depth) hole in a piece of scrap and taking a run at filling it up first to see how it was going to work.  Even if it took you several practice holes on scrap to get your technique and machine set right it would be worth it if for no other purpose than as a learning exercise.Last edited by HT2-4956; 08-24-2014 at 09:24 AM.
Reply:Some general thoughts on hole filling (especially where you're going to be subsequently re-drilling and tapping threads in)....How you go about it depends a lot on how narrow and deep it is.  If you can't reach the very bottom good some times it helps to counter sink out the hole some.Where ever possible I prefer to use MIG or TIG over stick for doing it because you don't have to run the risk of slag entrapment.  The trouble with stick welding a hole up is that it doesn't take long for the slag layer to get so deep that it interferes with maintaining a smooth, stable arc.   And if you have to quit part way out because there's so much slag you can't keep the arc going, cleaning out the solidified slag in the hole so you can restart another rod is usually a real PITA.   A trick I've used with 7018 in these situations is to take a pair of pliers and break most of the flux off of the stick rod.  Just leave the first inch or so of flux on the rod and strip the rest of it bare.   That usually gives  you enough molten slag coverage of the weld with out letting it grow so thick that it tries to put out the arc.
Reply:Regardless of which method you use to fill in the hole, you will want to pre-heat for a couple of reasons.First, even a thick piece like that may warp or distort from the heat of welding.Also, the weld metal may harden significantly due to the sudden cooling which will make drilling and machining difficult.I did a similar job recently. I pre-heated in an old toaster oven at 450F, welded, then put back in the toaster oven and turned it off to slow-cool.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:While I'd agree that a little pre-heat is more often than not a good thing in the case of a cold rolled product I'd have to have some concern that over heating it might result in some loss of hardness and strength.   Whether or not that could be a problem for the parts intended use should be taken into consideration.
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956I'd suggest drilling a similar sized (and depth) hole in a piece of scrap and taking a run at filling it up first to see how it was going to work.  Even if it took you several practice holes on scrap to get your technique and machine set right it would be worth it if for no other purpose than as a learning exercise.
Reply:If this is mild steel no preheat is necessary. It isn't structual......he's just filling  hole. Weld it and be done