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I was doing a small project today and set it up so i could work on some outside corners as I haven't done that much. Open to any and all wisdom!Miller MM252 .035 solid with C25 @ 25 cfm1/4" steel plateMachine settings are in the pics as volts/wfs Motion is drawn in soapstone Joints were setup like this:Attachment 1313321I started like this with the recommended 1/4" settings. Obviously speed and steadiness were issues. I used a forward/back motion running up the high side a little on the back step:Attachment 1313221Side profile view:Then I tried turning it down a little and using more of a side to side motion:Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Reply:Side view of that one:Then I turned it down a little more. I got better with my speed and steadiness. So my own observations were I didn't see much of a difference between my highest setting and my lowest, other than I had to move slower on the lower setting to get as much fill. Looking at the back side of the welds the HAZ was the same width. So what do you experts see? Other than my obvious need for technique practice. Is there a better way too ensure a good "fill" of the groove? Also, what makes the difference in appearance? I see others' MIG welds with the nice, well defined, ripple look, but mine usually seem to have more of a smooth look. Just curious. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Reply:Not bad. Side view tells me you are riding up onto the top of the upper plate some as the bead extends beyond where the edge was. At the same time it looks like you didn't quite catch the whole edge on the vertical plate in some spots. I'd guess your aim and/or gun angle was off some. Either you were aiming more towards the top piece vs the vertical one, or your gun angle was favoring that piece.With laps/outside corners I like to watch the edge carefully. I move off the edge as soon as I see the edge start to break down. Consistency is the key to good looking welds..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Here's a close up of one of the last beads I did on this, showing how smooth they are. The ripples are actually more visible in the picture than they for real. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Reply:By "consistency" I was looking at the overall picture of the welds. In some places they are quite good. In others not directly shown in the detail picts they could use some work. Start/stops could also use some work.Mostly just pointing out areas where you might want to give a little attention since you asked for comments..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Oh no! That's exactly what I was looking for! I posted that last post without seeing your first reply. It wasn't a "look how great I did!" reply. I posted it in regards to the rippled look I see on the really nice beads posted around here, while mine seem smooth and unrippled looking. That's all. Your comments are much appreciated! Yes, I think I was favoring the high side how fear the low side would sluf, thereby not reaching the edge on some of it. So do you just use a side to side motion watching the edges? And start stops; Usually when I stop I pause just for a second to let the puddle fill a little. If I'm going to continue a bad from a stop should I not do that? Looking at the pictures I was just thinking maybe it would be easier to get a smooth transition is the stop was I little shallower?Sent from my SM-G900V using TapatalkLast edited by Justme; 01-05-2016 at 11:33 PM.
Reply:It looks fine, depending on how you rate appearance . Depending on cut piece dimensions, you can get a nicer weld by cutting and fitting the pieces to give you a groove to lay the bead in. As a example, if it was a box that is 12'' square , you could cut the sides 12'' and the top at 11 7/8''. This would give you a space for the weld and might be easier for filling and watching the puddle melt into the edges. It's hard to see how the pieces were fitted up. Sometimes you don't have control on the precut material and you need to make the best of what you have to work with. This is where experience comes into play.
Reply:Originally Posted by JustmeOh no! I posted it in regards to the rippled look I see on the really nice beads posted around here, while mine seem smooth and unrippled looking. ... So do you just use a side to side motion watching the edges? And start stops; Usually when I stop I pause just for a second to let the puddle fill a little. If I'm going to continue a bad from a stop should I not do that? Looking at the pictures I was just thinking maybe it would be easier to get a smooth transition is the stop was I little shallower?
Reply:top pic doesn't look like you got penetration. most of the weld appears to be on the vertical plate rather than the joint itself.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:19:31