AHP Owners-stick welding tips/experiences?

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Was trying to rrun some stick beads tonight with my AHP alphatig. Had some troube at first, because I forgot to switch the control from foot pedal to torch. After I remembered to do that it welded OK. I ran some excalibur 7018 rods first and it really likes those, did a real nice job laying them down and the slag just popped right off. I was running them at 125 amps. But I found something interesting and I am sure it is operator error. I had a hard time running 6011 and 7014 rods. They were running very hot and really digging into the metal, hard. I was running beads on a 3/8ths inch plate, cleaned to bright shiny metal with a flap disk. I ran everything DCEP. the 1/8th 7014 have a range of 120-145 listed on the package. at 120, they were way too hot. I could kind of get a decent bead if I cranked the amps down to around 85-90, which ought to be too cold for that rod. Same thing with the 1/8th 6011. The range is 80-125, and I was having to run these at 65-70 amps to get a decent bead. I am thinking there is probably an arc force setting that I am missing on this thing, or some kind of anti-stick circuit that is not liking the arc length I am holding?Any thoughts or suggestions? its really not critical, since I still have my beloved stickmate for stick welding. But I would like to figure out what I am doing wrong. The machine TIG welds like a dream. I was laying down some lap welds on 1/8 inch plate tonight and the machine has no problem with that.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Funny this thread popped up. Just ran some sick on my alpha tig for the first time last week. Only had some old 6010 and some really crappy 7018. Neither ran very well. The 6010 did just as you said, hot as h3ll and crazy dig. Had the main amps dialed WAY down just to get a bead. Thought it was just my rods, but after reading your problems I may have to investigate this issue further. Just have to wait until I get some slow time at work.
Reply:7018 are the upper left. on the right and on the bottom are a mix of 7014 and 6011Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Because you pre heated that little metal plate with all your 7018 beads so less heat was required to run the latter rods.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:That was a thick plate, so I am not sure I buy that. I have never seen stick rods dig in a quarter inch like that before. it had a LOT of arc force.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:I can vouch. 6010 digs like crazy on these machines. The preheat of that plate probably had little to do with the issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961That was a thick plate, so I am not sure I buy that.
Reply:First arc I stuck was a 6010 on a cold piece of steel. And had the exact same issue
Reply:Hard for me to figure it out via the Internet. If I had the stinger in my hand, I'd have a fighting chance. What few welding machines I have, some of them vary 20-amps or more. Numbers mean nothing to me, I look for results.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPHard for me to figure it out via the Internet. If I had the stinger in my hand, I'd have a fighting chance. What few welding machines I have, some of them vary 20-amps or more. Numbers mean nothing to me, I look for results.
Reply:I've taken several welding tests. When you walk into the welding booth there is duct tape on the gauges. First part of the test is to set the machine within manufacturer's specs. If not, test over and you get to go home early. Oh yeah, and now you are unemployed!Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:louie, glad to hear you're up and running after that spot of trouble with your machine. i just tried those excalibur rods yesterday and they ran very smooth for multi bead vertical. that is a mystery about your machine settings. my square wave at work has this problem. does the digital amp readings blink on and off? i have an ammeater issue on my machine and occasionally runs ultra hot.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:its all good. Like I said this is not my only welder. if I need to stick weld something I would probably revert back to the Hobart Stickmate. But I was wondering if there was a setting or technique I was overlooking.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Joe, no blinking. Maybe I will get one of those clamp on ammeters from my brother the electrician and see how it compares to the digital readout. Honestly though it feels like the arc force or dig is set to "KILL". I have never seen 7014 rods blow a hole in plate like this.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961Joe, no blinking. Maybe I will get one of those clamp on ammeters from my brother the electrician and see how it compares to the digital readout. Honestly though it feels like the arc force or dig is set to "KILL". I have never seen 7014 rods blow a hole in plate like this.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961Honestly though it feels like the arc force or dig is set to "KILL". I have never seen 7014 rods blow a hole in plate like this.
Reply:Ill have to run some random rods through mine and see what it does.
Reply:I wonder if running in DCEN would make a difference?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961I wonder if running in DCEN would make a difference?
Reply:Originally Posted by dcoffmanjrThat may be the answer right there!
Reply:yes they are marked. I am just so used to running everything DCEP with my stickmate, I will have to try some DCEN.Miller Multimatic 255