Just purchased Snap On YA2001 Plasma cutter, needs new torch

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I just picked this up off Craigslist for $200 from a former Century repairman. It is externally in exceptional shape except for the cover of the status LED's is missing and the torch is smashed. Other than that, it is supposed to work, but I bought it as is. He told me about a torch setup from Weldmart, the Alpha 2, I think. Any suggestions on what I should purchase to replace the damaged one?
Reply:You might try HTP  http://www.htpweld.com/products/index.htm  They have parts for those cutter torches and might be helpful.
Reply:The original torch was probably a Hypertherm. That may not be the cheapest replacement torch, but it will help the unit work as it was designed. It is a high frequency start system and I believe it used the Hypertherm Max40 style torch.Jim Colt
Reply:you will probably find you can find a complete working machine for the cost of a new torch alone and you still don't know if the rest of the machine is functional.  40amps is not a powerful machine either...   Snap-on out sources all their stuff like that and charges a crazy high price for putting their stickers on it..Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Alright, I finally have had some time to mess with it. I got the torch repaired and hooked up, I cleaned a bunch of junk out of the regulator so that it would pass air and here's what it does. All the lights light up when the torch is triggered, the two points insided(which I cleaned and reset to where they were) light up bright blue momentarily and a small, blue spark will come from the torch head. Then the last two lights go out and it does nothing.Any Ideas?Thanks.
Reply:Yes.....you have high frequency, but no DC. There should be a contactor pulling in when you depress the trigger, and there should be 300 to 400 volts DC between the electrode  (negative) and the work clamp (positive). Be careful.Jim
Reply:Jim,    Where is the contactor at? Should I be able to see it move? I looked around for other points/contacts to check or clean but could not find any, but I did not open up the lower part of the cabinet.    As far as being careful goes, I'm boing pretty careful. I haven't been checking anything with a meter or anything, I'm pretty scared of electricity.
Reply:The contactor, most likely, will be right where the incoming power connects. On most early air plasma systems it activates when you trigger the torch, providing AC power to the main transformer, the secondary of this main transformer then feeds the bridge rectifier (diode bridge, converts AC to DC), providing DC power for the main cutting arc. To fire the torch, you need gas flow (air) at the torch first, then the DC power (contactor should activate, you will hear a clunk), then the high frequency (which you have seen). Voltages are high in the power supply, and they will be present even after you unplug it for a period of time....thats why I say be careful.Jim
Reply:Jim, that's kind of what I figured. I work on some lighting systems at work with capacitors etc. that can give you a zap if you're not patient, and I thought this was probably the same. I will have to pull the back off and see if I can see those contacts. Century's repair tech also said to check the pressure switch and air feed for restrictions.Josh
Reply:If there is inadequate air pressure, the pressure switch will not allow the contactor to close. Or if there is a leak somewhere, same situation.Jim
Reply:Jim, if you are ever in the area, I owe you couple of brews. I took the sidecover off to check those contacts and there was a small gauge wire disconnected from the contact block. After putting a new terminal end on it and hooking it up, this thing cuts great! At least for someone as inexperienced as me. It should be perfect for my home and hobby use. So far I have spent $200 to buy it, $44 for a cheap torch assembly to test it with off of ebay and that's it. Thanks again for the help!! I'll have to put some pictures up of what I cut with it. Josh
Reply:Perfect! just remember it was the Hypertherm guy that helped you fix it.....especially when you are shopping for a new plasma some day in the future! It sounds like a good deal, and will probably suit your needs just fine.Best regards, Jim
Reply:Can anyone recomend a good and resonably priced air pressure regulator/filter setup to put on my compressor? I haven't bought one up till now, but I really need to get one before I run this machine much.Thanks,Josh
Reply:I use a pretty basic set hanging off the back of my plasma cutter.  It's just a Husky regulator and oil/water filter.  I have the same units on my compressor outlets as well, but I put one on the back of the machine to catch anything additional that may be in the air lines leading up to it.  I don't remember what they cost, but they weren't too bad...just picked them up at HomeDepot when I needed them.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Well I'll bring an old thread back to life here. I've been using this plasma cutter off and on with moderate success. Sometimes it takes a few tries to kick off but has worked well for what I do with it. Recently it has not been working at all. I get the small, pilot arc, air flow, the large contactor kicks in(I had trouble with this when I bought the machine) and all the lights light up but it never starts cutting. I have checked all connections in the machine, cleaned all contacts and switches/connections that are there, but no luck. Any advice? The only thing out of the ordinary that I have noticed is that there is a long, black cylinder in the top area of the machine that gets very hot quickly. Also, the wire highlighted in blue is very soft and flexible and feels like there is not much to it, I did not cut it open to see if it is open or damaged internally yet. Any ideas on basic things I could check? Is this old machine finally dead? Thanks for any help.
Reply:It is an older technology, high frequency start machine. It certainly is repairable at any competent welder repair shop. Could be a few things causing the problem, most likely it needs a new pilot arc relay, or perhaps has a broken wire in the torch leads.Jim Colt   Hypertherm Originally Posted by 79BrawncoWell I'll bring an old thread back to life here. I've been using this plasma cutter off and on with moderate success. Sometimes it takes a few tries to kick off but has worked well for what I do with it. Recently it has not been working at all. I get the small, pilot arc, air flow, the large contactor kicks in(I had trouble with this when I bought the machine) and all the lights light up but it never starts cutting. I have checked all connections in the machine, cleaned all contacts and switches/connections that are there, but no luck. Any advice? The only thing out of the ordinary that I have noticed is that there is a long, black cylinder in the top area of the machine that gets very hot quickly. Also, the wire highlighted in blue is very soft and flexible and feels like there is not much to it, I did not cut it open to see if it is open or damaged internally yet. Any ideas on basic things I could check? Is this old machine finally dead? Thanks for any help.
Reply:The Snap On stuff is made by Systematics Inc in Pa . 1-800-ABC- WELD they build and have all the parts . OK stuff but expensive !!!
Reply:How bright should the pilot arc be? It's barely visible, like a spark plug with weak spark, still blue, but no much to it. Can you tell me what these contacts are here? They arc a good bit when I attempt to cut. They look adjustable/replaceable. Is there a spec for adjustment?
Reply:Those are your spark gap oscilater points.....they are working just fine if you are seeing a weak blue flame at the torch. That is high frequency.A pilot arc is a combination of the high frequency (that you are seeing both at the spark gap points and at the torch) and DC power. You are not getting the DC power for the pilot arc. If I had a schematic I would tell you were to look....99% chance it will be one of the following:- Pilot arc relay needs replacement.-Pilot arc resistor needs replacement- Bad connection on the pilot arc lead at the torch...or the power supply end.Jim Colt   Hypertherm- Originally Posted by 79BrawncoHow bright should the pilot arc be? It's barely visible, like a spark plug with weak spark, still blue, but no much to it. Can you tell me what these contacts are here? They arc a good bit when I attempt to cut. They look adjustable/replaceable. Is there a spec for adjustment?
Reply:If you have the schematic...and can post it...or if you can take more pics of the inside components I'll help you locate the suspect components...a pic of the torch as well.Jim