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Hello everyone. You could call this my first few welds pretty much ever, done on 1/8" scrap plates I picked up (maybe to turn into small welding table top). I'm using the dreaded HF 90amp flux core welder on max setting with wire speed between 6 and 7. I have 0.30 LIncoln wire in, and I cleaned the weld joints and ground contact point very well before welding, left the rest rusty for now. Aside from not visualizing the bead very well and hence "flying blind", I'm not sure if my settings are in the ballpark, and if I need to speed up or slow down on making the weld. Also, I did a few spaced tac welds then connects the dots so to speak to try to avoid overheating one area and distorting the two peaces. Any input/criticisms would be welcome! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I've never used a Harbor Freight welder, so I'm unfamiliar with their controls. Do you actually know how many volts and inches per minute you're using? Or do their numbers not really mean anything? I don't know what wire you're using, but you mentioned Lincoln so I'll assume NR-211 as it's one of the most common. For 1/8" material and .030" wire, you should be running in the 40-50 IPM and 13-15 volts range, depending on your personal preferences (hot vs cold, slow vs fast).Also, you definitely need to stay more consistent with your travel speed. That will help achieve a uniform profile in your weld beads. I wouldn't weld it with the "connect the dots" method you mentioned. Just try welding one out, see how badly it warps, and if it's too much to handle, then try back-stepping it.Are you using a push or pull angle? How far is your standoff distance (distance from the tip of the gun to the base metal)? It should be about 1/2".
Reply:all in all, it dont look that bad for someone who just began and dealing w/ junk. the first pic makes me think of snail tracks trying to breed oneanother
Reply:Thanks for the reply! Yeah this is a cheap cheap welder, as in I'm not sure the manufacturer knows those values. Haha. The manual for an older version of this welder does have amps listed for min and max settings (I forgot to mention this is an AC welder), and the older version ran 63-68amps on min setting and 79-90amps on max. The manual for my welder recommend for 1/8 steel using max setting and 8 for wire speed (which I guess is their arbitrary speed setting, no inch/min or anything) the wire I'm using is the NR211MP. I'll try again with a more continuous bead and less jumping around, and maybe with better lighting I'll see the puddle better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Hahaha. Snail tracks...I had to go back to see it, but yeah I see what you're saying! Thanks for the compliment too! This was my jump into this fast and cheap while I have some time to mess with it, and maybe later this year I'll upgrade to a proper welder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Running it on AC is part of your problem. Innershield wires are intended to be run on straight polarity; not using this polarity will tend to produce less than desirable welds.
Reply:There is a series of videos on YouTube about how to fix this welder and make it a dedicated d.c. negative flux core machine.Eventual master of the obvious, practitioner of "stream of consciousness fabrication". P.S. I edit almost every post because because I'm posting from my phone and my fingers sometimes move faster than my brain.
Reply:Material is really too thick for this machine. You'll get better results if you gap your pieces rather than butting them up tight. It takes a lot more power to try and blast all the way thru 1/8" stock the way you have things set up. Gapped you are really dealing with just the edges and you will get better results, even if it's a bit harder to keep from blowing thru.You are really making things about as hard as possible for yourself. Small 110v machines start out handicapped by incoming power. Very few actually read and follow the directions that tell you to use a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Any other draws on the line, using a 15 amp circuit or using a light weight extension cord, saps your power. Now combine that with a machine that is poorly designed and cheaply built that often has a reputation for erratic behavior and welding on material that's really beyond what the machine can do under real world conditions and you have stacked the deck against yourself..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLc...yU&mode=NORMALlincoln put out a fluxcore trouble shoot for beginners which is quite good.have fun
Reply:Using a circuit installed by a low bid electrician is shooting yourself in the foot. These general purpose receptacles are commonly daisy chained, may be using #14 wire. They often follow round about routes giving long wire length getting to your outlet. They will have numerous connections upstream from your outlet. Likely the final outlet is providing a weak grip on the plug. These machines are usually designed for 115 volts under full load. Unless your receptacle was properly installed for the purpose you may not have specified voltage under load. Look into it. As Doug said, gap your pieces. Preheat may help your anemic welder produce the needed heat. WillieAn optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:The problem with the welder in question is that its output is A/C ! A few diodes and a capacitor and you can make it DCEN which is what flux core wants. Also ditch the Harbor Freight wire and run Hobart or Lincoln wire.Eventual master of the obvious, practitioner of "stream of consciousness fabrication". P.S. I edit almost every post because because I'm posting from my phone and my fingers sometimes move faster than my brain.
Reply:He already said he was running Lincoln wire.
Reply:Give yourself a fighting chance and do a little prep too. Take the rust and millscale off with a grinder ~1" back from where you intend to weld on those edges. Also knocking down the corners a bit to a nice 45 degree bevel will give you a small v groove to fill with metal and increase penetration.The welds look a little cold and high crowned. Maybe turn just the voltage to the next tap and see what happens. If too hot bring WFS up a little to compensate and move faster. What manipulation technique are you using? I like cursive E's, or a slight forward and back/dig and fill with flux core.Last edited by SlickmisterN; 01-14-2016 at 11:21 AM.Miller XMT 350 CC/CVMiller S74-DHobart Airforce 500i
Reply:Isn't .030 wire a little large for that welder?Hobart 190 migLincoln/Century 140 migLincoln buzz boxChicago Electric cutoff sawLotos LTP5000D Plasma CutterHMC Swivel head band saw
Reply:Hey all! Thanks for the replies! DSW I'll try gapping the next piece, and hopefully down the road I'll upgrade to a better welder, but for now this is what I've got. Meadow street thanks for the video! I'll check it out for sure! Willie B, I'm currently using a 12g 25' extension cord running from my washing machine outlet which is a dedicated 20a circuit and fairly close to the main breaker. Sedanman I have been thinking about the DC upgrade as well, but some have said its not nessessary to get a half decent weld. That being said I am going to start with upgrading the ground clamp which everyone who has this welder recommends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Slickmister, I'm going to practice with some beveled edges and gapping and such. Do you just use a grinding wheel on the angle grinder for this? As for settings that's in the max amperage this things capable of. To be honest I don't know what technique I'm using, just zig zagging. I'll work on technique to get better consistancy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yea, 4.5" grinder make even passes slowly taking the corner down to the desired bevel face. And maybe lower the wire feed a smidge or increase travel rate. Have fun!Miller XMT 350 CC/CVMiller S74-DHobart Airforce 500i
Reply:Originally Posted by jo83ben ...Do you just use a grinding wheel on the angle grinder for this? As for settings that's in the max amperage this things capable of. To be honest I don't know what technique I'm using, just zig zagging. I'll work on technique to get better consistancy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Awesome. Thanks brazin. That's one thing I've been lost on is which grits and such to get for grinding, prepping etc. I got a few grinding wheels and a few flapper disc, and am not sure which will be best for grinding down my welds and all of the spatter. Does anyone use a shield or something to place around the weld to prevent spatter from sticking all over the work piece? I know they make sprays and stuff, but I would think a small aluminum plate with a slot or something would collect most of the spatter. It'll be a while until I can get to try these things but when I do I'll post some more pics. Thanks again Everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Had a few mins to grind down the above pictured weld with a grinder and a flapper 60grit. Definitely like the flapper better, though not sure if I'm holding at too steep an angle. These are pics of the resulting seem. The one side has a notable very thin straight line consistent with the metal edges (maybe indicating under penetration?) and the other side is wavy and I think I didn't grind it down completely flat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yes some people do use what they call a "hog trough" for bracing your hand on and limiting splatter. Those flap discs are great for cleaning up and rounding an inside corner weld, but they tend to gouge flat material. A flat disc on a separate backing pad can get better results.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:18:01