Welding Chev 454 Aluminum Intake

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So, I've got an old Suburban I use to haul Asian pears to various farmers markets.  Ran into an issue yesterday with a heater hose blowing off, not good.  The stupid chevy quick disconnect water hose fitting had failed.  Time is money, especially in this situation, so I thought I'd just Tig the hole closed rather than pull the whole engine apart.  It's too old to be worth all the work.  The intake is cast aluminum, and I was pretty sure the fitting was as well.  A magnet would not stick to it, and it looked like aluminum.So I did my standard cleanup routine.  Stainless brush and acetone.Next step in my process is to take my torch, turn up the EP a bit and do some cleaning passes.  Things were kinda weird from the start,  the Arc didn't want to travel onto the broken fitting.  It was perfectly well behaved on the intake metal.  So I dragged it further over the top edge of the fitting and poof.  The Arc went nuts, kinda like one of those plasma balls, except green, and the fitting metal just melted away.Left lots of blue dust/ash everywhere.So, what the heck?  Is this just some really, really dirty cast aluminum?  Pot metal?  I suppose I could just burn it all out with the arc and screw in a new fitting if the fumes won't kill me.
Reply:Take a die grinder to the nubbin of pipe thread broken off in the manifold. Once you have most of it removed, run a pipe tap (size escapes me, but the replacement fitting will have the thread size you need) in to open up the threads again. Hold shop vac to the hole to suck out what filings you can. Replace heater hose fitting for a couple dollars. This is a common failure point.DO NOT use a tapered reverse thread screw extractor like I did, you'll just break the manifold, like I did.
Reply:Where you doing this on a/c. If so that was part of the problem, and the fitting...who knows what kind of junk it was made out of, and it probably has some thread sealer on it that wasn't helping one bit. The manifold is most likely aluminum, so if its not a fused together disaster I would take some square stock slightly bigger than the hole even if you have to grind it and taper it, just make sure you keep the corners and hammer it in the hole then heat the manifold around it and try and extract it.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Further to my "don't do as I did"..
Reply:the heater hose quick disconnect fittings are just cheap pot metal. they're so known for breaking that there's even a specific tool made for removing the broken portion from the intake - most parts stores carry the tool.  when you do get it removed just put in a normal pipe nipple and snip the crimped end off the heater hose. example of the tool mentioned:http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=715911_0_0_
Reply:Some of the replacements are made of actual steel. I bought one that a magnet will stick to. I'm sure it will outlast the first connector which made it from 99 to 2013 and 203,000 km. But yes, a regular pipe fitting also works 100%.The die grind and pipe tap method was suggested to me by a mechanic from a dealership, he said that's what they do.
Reply:easy out the pipe section that's broken off, then tap the hole and put a hose barb in... this is not a welding repair.Last edited by MikeGyver; 10-08-2014 at 09:04 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyvereasy out the pipe section that's broken off, then tap the hole and put a hose barb in... this is not a welding repair.
Reply:You can grind an extraction tool like the one shown. That is what I did on my Tahoe. Yes the fittings are pot metal.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyvereasy out the pipe section that's broken off, then tap the hole and put a hose barb in... this is not a welding repair.
Reply:What I have done a few times in the past, take a hacksaw blade and grind about 3/16 of an inch off the back so the blade will fit inside the broken fitting in the manifold and cut into the fitting in 3 spots. Dont worry if you hit the threads on the intake, your thread sealant will seal that (just dont cut past the treads on the intake) then use a center punch and strike between the broken fitting and intake just hard enough to start moving the piece of fitting.  Then grab the piece of fitting with needle nose pliers and remove. Do the same to the other 2 remaining pieces of fitting. I know it sounds difficult and time consuming but I have done 4 or 5 like this. Takes about 30 minutes. Anyways this method has worked for me. Good luck!