Ground rod pounders

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I was looking to make something like this.  https://www.theelectricaltoolstore.c...ool-p-323.htmlTrying to figure out what to use and if I can even do it in my simple shop (no lathe just drill press, grinders, welders).Ground rods are nearly impossible to drive in our rocky soil. We use a demolition hammer with a ground rod attachment but sometimes an 18 lb sledge is needed to break through the caliche and it's tough to hit a 5/8 diameter target 7 feet in the air while on a ladder.We tried using a pipe with a cap on the end but it didn't hold up even for 1 rod.Last edited by bigb; 06-16-2012 at 09:40 AM.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:You may consider T-post drivers from a farm store.http://www.tractorsupply.com/-360641599http://www.tractorsupply.com/-360961799
Reply:A good ole fashioned T-post driver is what we use. Good luckGod speedHappy welding Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
Reply:T post driver has worked for me. It gets you almost there then pound it the rest of the way with a sledge hammer.
Reply:" We tried using a pipe with a cap on the end but it didn't hold up even for 1 rod "What kind of pipe and cap did you use? I have one around here I built years ago for fence posts and its been used a lot and and is still going strong.I used a pipe with about .300 wall and welded a 1/2 plate on the end with a full penetration weld, beveling the pipe. The welded a couple of "D" handles on it.If your wanting to build one similar to your picture, use a piece of DOM tube ( 1 3/4 would give you a 1' hole with a 1/2 inch wall, 1 5/8 would give you a wall of .375 and a .875 hole )Then take a piece of 3" round, how much you want it to weigh is how thick you cut it, but 2 inches is 4 lbs, 3" is 6 lbs. Drill a hole in the round on the end about 1/4 deep, use the inside diameter of the DOM it will be a smaller hole. Use a small piece of round stock that slides into the the DOM and the mating hole in the round stock, ( this is just to line it up staright ) then do a full weld on the DOM to round stock on the underside.shouldn't take long as you can go to your steel yard and just buy your pieces cut to lenght, so basically you need to drill a hole, and weld it up.
Reply:I've been using a piece of 1-1/4 pipe, capped with a plate, with an old sledge hammer head welded to that for years. (plate covers the hole in the hammer head)   Start pounding the rod using the pipe handle over the rod and drive it as far as possible, then finish with the sledge hammer."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Bigb, I can relate to your misfortune!  Hilti or Bosch work most times with little sweat!  12 lb sledge with someone holding the rod with Channel Locks to be safe most times works also.  We have much granite here and shale also.  Separates the men from the boys for sure.  What you need is a guy around 26 years old and trying to make an impression on you!!  Ha Ha!  Best   Bob
Reply:I have a lemco pounder and works in my soils well, http://www.supplysolutionsstore.com/...ol-corp-2.htmlhttp://www.tvcinc.com/tools---safety...nd-rod-driver/it has a block in the driver so it is low on the start, as the rod fits up in the driver and when you get down you turn it over and the driver is up making the last few feet easer to drive, but in hard soils it is a work out,Last edited by Farmerboy; 06-16-2012 at 11:27 PM.
Reply:Most any ol' timer ham radio operator can show how a ground rod can be put in without tools! The secret is to dig a small hole where the ground rod will be going. Fill the hole with water and have someone keep it full. Insert the ground rod and continually push it down and lift it up and be amazed as it works its way down. DON'T STOP UNTIL IT'S IN or your progress will end. The water trick makes it easier if  other methods mentioned above are used. Yes, a rock will spoil your progress.
Reply:Find a chunk of heavy wall pipe and weld on a chunk of round bar. Do you know anyone who has a scrap bin you can dig through nearby?
Reply:I use the Fat Chick method. Position Fat Chick atop rod, slap the fat and the back-and-forth motion will drive the rod.My friend sank the pilings for his boat dock this way.
Reply:I drive steel rods with a quart of water. Pour water at point where you want the rod. Keep adding water while dropping the rod as the soil becomes wet and muddy. Keep dropping the rod and wetting the soil. . No need for a BFH. Easy money.
Reply:I know a guy that has a setup for a bobcat breaker attachment.   Works almost too good.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Some good ideas there. The quart of water method does not work in caliche though. Sometimes the ground is so hard here the rod will actually make a u turn and come back up. We sometimes drive them at a 45 degree angle but that is problematic too.Once in a while we get lucky if there is a back hoe nearby.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I just use my bosch jack hammer...press the trigger and down she goes....into the ground that is...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbI just use my bosch jack hammer...press the trigger and down she goes....into the ground that is...
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbI just use my bosch jack hammer...press the trigger and down she goes....into the ground that is...