Forks for tractor

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Just getting started with the build and I'm building 2 sets at the same time for two different sized tractors. Slight variation between the frame mounts and width but same overall. The point of this first set of pics is to show how I setup the tubes for tack welding so I could hit the top and bottom to control the movement from heat. Welded the top "in position' and the bottom "overhead" then "V'd" out both and ran a second pass on both sides "in position". All 4 line up -almost- perfect. Sorry pics are a little washed out from the sun light. Attached Images
Reply:The line up. Attached Images
Reply:It will be interesting to see the way you mount them on the tractor!-MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Those look great for brush forks. Not so sure how they would hold up to a pallet of bricks, however.
Reply:Gonna be a little light for heavy work, Look like they'll work great for square bales and brush.
Reply:Agreed, an ton or two will make that tube look like my Daughter's kindergarden string project.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:BTW markfuga, beautiful welds and one helluva table!When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:You'd be surprised by the amount of weight tubing can take. This project is to replace a pair of 2x2x1/4 "bolt on forks" that slip onto the lip of the bucket. I've been using the old slip ons for about 6 years and gave them lots of abuse. Lifted things that had the rear tires bouncing into the air (with counter weight on the 3 point) and they haven't bent on me yet. These are 2x3x1/4" so actually going to be a little more rugged. Heres a little more jign' and tack welding. Attached Images
Reply:Had to make a major correction today and figured I post up the process I used to "fix it". I was originally going to use a peice of solid stock of 2.25" to slide through the tops of the forks, but for "reasons" that had to change. The problem I ran into is I used 2.5" Schedule 80 for the tops of the forks and there isn't any smaller pipe that fits neatly into it. 2" schedule 40/80 is just a little to big O.D. so I had to "machine" (using that term loosly) the inside of the 2.5".Step 1. Grind out the weld bead inside the pipeStep 2. Cut a hole with a 2.5" hole saw in a peice of scrap 1/4" and use the dop (it fits nicely inside the 2.5" schedule 80)Step 3. Cut a small peice of wood to fit inside the pipe, 1/2" from the topStep 4. Drop the peice of wood in the pipe and put the drop on topStep 5. Run a 2 3/8" hole saw down the pipe about 1/2", back out, remove drop and wood, continue to run hole saw through the pipeUnfortunately the hole still isn't big enough to let the 2" pipe slide freely through so I had to sacrifice the hole saw Step 6. Put hole saw in vise and use vise grip to gently bend cutting teeth outward for a slightly larger cut then repeat steps 3 through 5Step 7. This should have been step 1: Find pipes that slide neatly into each other and never bother with the above steps again In the end a perfect fit, just loose enough to easily slide the forks left and right. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by bearstonBTW markfuga, beautiful welds and one helluva table!
Reply:before i would have gotten threw step 6, i would have moved on to step 7.  buy new forks.  nice work.
Reply:Almost finished, just a few details to touch up on both sets. Decided to test them before welding the pipe as a "just in case" preventive measure. Lifted 1 ton (2,000 lbs) of pellets which is the max my tractor is rated to lift. Went up smoothly without any flex in the frame or forks. I'm very happy with the finished product, night and day difference over the "slip ons" I had been using. My neighbors tractor is new so you have to excuse the shine... and yes, I have a low front tire on mine. Attached Images
Reply:Tough to argue with success - they look great.  Thanks for posting the details.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:The finished forks have reinforcement at the bottom of the "L" that was not in the original photos.Did you decided to add those later to support the lower arms and prevent twisting, etc.?
Reply:I wanted to post more pics as I went along but timing just didn't work out. The gussets at the bottom are part of the initial design and got added after the first post. The idea was to strengthen the "L" joint and also line up the face of the gussets to the face of the upper section/guard as seen in this pic. Note the two "plug welds" in the side gussets, the lower plug grabs both tube sections at the top of the horizontal tube. Attached Images
Reply:We're at three years of service so figured I post an update. The forks have performed well for both my neighbor and myself with no issues or problems. I've given mine quite a bit of abuse with pushing brush around, moving engines/transmissions, knocking tree forts out of trees and moving small cars around. These forks are the most useful and indispensable attachment I've made for the tractor. Attached Images
Reply:Nice work. Looks good and holds up good.
Reply:GREAT JOB Mark!!!!!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Looks really really good!!
Reply:Ya know...........I used to cry foul when I saw forks made out of mild steel.  But I recently sold a set of drive in forks for a large front end loader that were made out of mild steel, factory made.  CTI forks.  Expensive doooods.  They were rated at 3000# per fork, 6000# combined."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammYa know...........I used to cry foul when I saw forks made out of mild steel.  But I recently sold a set of drive in forks for a large front end loader that were made out of mild steel, factory made.  CTI forks.  Expensive doooods.  They were rated at 3000# per fork, 6000# combined.
Reply:About 12 or 13-years ago I built a set of forks for my tractor. Which is smaller than either one of yours. I put holes in the tips for shackles. I can stall the loader picking at the tips. Now I have a set of small warehouse forklift forks to replace these when they give me trouble. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Nice work CEP, and once again Mark. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Thanks guys. Holes in the tips are a good idea and I plan to add that to mine. I've had engines suspended from chains slide back on me when trying to hoist in/out of a chassis, so having a "fixed shackle" on the end is the safer way to go.
Reply:Looks GOOD! I built quick attach forks for our new tractor a while back too, and they are so much better than the bucket forks we had on the old tractors.Great job
Reply:Originally Posted by markfugaHoles in the tips are a good idea and I plan to add that to mine. I've had engines suspended from chains slide back on me when trying to hoist in/out of a chassis, so having a "fixed shackle" on the end is the safer way to go.