wiring options for Dynasty 200

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After much head scratching I put my money down on a Dynasty 200 DX. I am hoping to get the electrical in the shop done this week, but was wondering what Dynasty owners have done to be as modular as possible when it come to plugging it in. I would like to use a plug on the end , but because the input lead is quite short, I think I will have to make an extension cord for it to be flexible in my shop. Also, if you want to plug it into 100 volts, did you make an adapter plug to go from the 230volt plug to 110? Just wondering what setup works for Dynasty owners.Thanks, Bob.Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:If you need a longer cord, you can always replace the stock cord with a longer one.  I have done this to a few of my machines so they can reach all over the shop without needing an extension cord.  I usually go up a step in the wire gauge when I swap in the longer cord.   By longer I'm talking up to 25 feet, not 100'.If you want to use the machine on both 120v and 240v, put a combo 125/250v twist-lock plug on it and then make two adaptor pigtails for it, one with a 125/250 twist lock receptacle and a 6-50P plug (250v 50A blade) for use with 240, and another one with another 125/250 twist lock receptacle and a 5-15P (125v 15A blade) plug for use with normal 120v house current.   The 5-15P plug will plug into any normal 5-15R (15 amp) house receptacle, as well as any 5-20R (20 amp) receptacle,  while the 6-50P plug is the most common 240v straight blade style plug used for welding equipment up to 50 amps.   Then you need to set up a j-box outlet near the panel with a 6-50R receptacle connected to a 50 amp breaker in the fuse panel.Last edited by DesertRider33; 07-05-2009 at 10:07 PM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Great detailed response Dessert Rider. Thank you. One question. As far as I know the 200 Dynasty requires a 30 amp breaker rather than a 50.Bob.Miller Dynasty 200 DXMillermatic 211Hypertherm PM 600In Tool acquisition Mode
Reply:It doesn't REQUIRE a smaller breaker, only needs at least that size for full output.  The breaker protects the circuit wiring, not the machine.  You are just fine plugging it into a full 50A circuit.
Reply:Why would you need to run it off of 120v inna shop?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Because you already put 110 on it so you didn't have to fight the wife for the dryer electrical supply. then it went to the shop. that's my story.  Changing to 220 soon though. Can't get full potential on AC.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Why would you need to run it off of 120v inna shop?
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Why would you need to run it off of 120v inna shop?
Reply:I used DesertRider's method and it's the easiest way to make extension cords / adapters. The only real issue here is the price of those darned twistlock plugs are insanely expensive. At least at Lowes or Home Depot. If anyone knows of an affordable online source, let me know. They were something in the neighborhood of $35-40 for the 4-prong twistlock, if memory serves me right.Miller Dynasty 200 DXeverything else Harbor Freight
Reply:You can try an electrical contractor's supply shop.  Sometimes their prices are a little better, but it is hard to beat the big box stores' with their volume purchasing power and overseas suppliers.  I get stuff sometimes from CES (City Electric Supply).MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Nicad, et al,I wired up our Dynasty at school a couple years ago and have a similar sticker shocking experince to primeral at Depot.  We ended up putting a standard 6-50P on the machine, then made a 6-50R to 5-15P adapter to plug it into a standard 15 or 20 amp receptacle.  The adapter is labeled "DYNASTY ONLY" in big letters to ward off someone from using it for some random other piece of equipment.  This works well when you know your only going to use either a 6-50 or 5-15 plug, and especially well if you are the only person using your tools.  If you need more flexability, then DR33's twist locks are definatly the way to go, they you can just make up another adapter and go if need be.  But for us simple hobbist types that aren't on the road all the time, the twist locks may just be extra money.If it doesn't fit, you aren't hitting it hard enough!Miller AerowaveMiller Radiator 1A4.5" DeWalt (with the paddle switch!)Jackson NexGen Helmet
Reply:How do you get the neutral from the 5-15 outlet to the machine with a 3-wire  2-hot/1-ground 6-50 plug set in between????   I can see doing this with a 14-50 4-wire 125/250 plug set, but a 6-50???MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33How do you get the neutral from the 5-15 outlet to the machine with a 3-wire  2-hot/1-ground 6-50 plug set in between????   I can see doing this with a 14-50 4-wire 125/250 plug set, but a 6-50???
Reply:The Dynasty only uses the Black, White and Ground for Single phase- 120 OR 240vYour twist lock 120v/240v adapters are doing the same thing really they are only beneficial when a machine or an appliance use BOTH voltages at the same time or you need to pull one or the other from a 120v/240v receptacle like a 14-50R(Range receptacle)Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Broccoli1 has drawn the adapter hookup exactly how it should be wired.Several others, with there "twistlock, etc" connections do not seem to understand how Auto-Line circuitry works.To quote from the Dynasty 200 DX Owners Manual:"The Auto-Line circuitry in this unit automatically adapts the power source to the primary voltage being applied.  Check input voltage available at site.  This unit can be connected to any input power between 120 and 460 VAC without removing the cover to relink the power source".The Dynasty 200 comes with a four conductor power cable (no plug).  The color coding is as follows:Black--L1--Hot lead used in all power setupsWhite--L2--Hot lead in 240v and higher setups,  Neutral in a 120v setup.Red----L3--Hot lead in 3PH setup only.  Not used (taped off) in 1PH setup.Green--Ground--Used in all setups.Sounds like you're getting advice from some posters who either don't understand the machine they're talking about, or just want you to spend more money than necessary.I installed a 6-50P on the power cord of the Dynasty.  I have an adapter (exactly as Broc shows) that I use to operate the unit on 120v.  I also have adapters to use a 30A 125V marine receptacle as well as adapters to use the 50A 125/250V marine receptacles.  I also made up and adapter to run the unit off my generator (20A 240V).Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:125/250v uses 4 wires- one ground, 2 hots and one nuetral.green = groundwhite = nuetralblack = hotred = hot120v uses 3 wires- one hot, one ground, one nuetralgreen = groundwhite = nuetralblack = hot220-480v single phase uses 3 wires- 2 hots and one groundgreen = groundblack = hotwhite = hot220-480v 3-phase uses 4 wires- 3 hots and one groundgreen = groundblack = hotwhite = hotred = hotI have 2 machines that are AutoLine, my XMT and my Passport, both of which are listed in my sig.  I do not own a Dynasty.   My Passport is 125/250 compatible and has a special 4-wire plug on the end of the cord.   Onto this special plug screws a 6-50 plug that plugs into 2 hots and a ground at the outlet for 220v operation.  There is another plug, a 5-15, that also screws on that uses one hot, one ground and one nuetral for 110v operation.  This plug is called the MVP plug and is also on the Maxstar 150 series and Spectrum 375 XTreme machines, as well as the Millermatic 211 and possibly others that I am not aware of.  It might be on the Millermatic DVI-2, not sure.When operating on 220v, the nuetral pin on the 4-wire plug is not used.  When operating on 120v, the 2nd hot pin on the 4-wire plug is not used.  When operating on 220v, the 2nd incomming hot does not connect to the nuetral pin, that would fry the machine.  When operating on 110v, the nuetral from the outlet does not connect to the 2nd hot pin in the plug.  Not sure if that would fry the machine or not, but it is not the accepted way to connect 110v service. However the Dynasty is being connected, it is not using standard wiring practice.  It should have a 4-wire cord on it to use it with 125/250 combo service, one ground, 2 hots and one nuetral.  Maybe someone can explain how it is that one of the wires in the Dynasty can be used for both hot and nuetral.  The diagram pic Broccoli posted shows a 3-wire plug on the end of the Dynasty being able to be used for both 110v and 220v operation.  Are you saying that you connect the ground and one hot in the usual places and connect the nuetral to the other hot position to get 110v operation in the Dynasty??  Connecting a nuetral to a hot or a hot to a nuetral is normally a no-no in electrical wiring.My XMT is 220-480v compatible, both single phase and 3 phase.  It comes with a 4-wire cord with no plug.  The 4 wires are 3 hots and a ground.   The 3rd hot is for 3 phase operation.  The machine automatically senses how many volts are on each hot leg and adjusts itself for operation on that voltage and phase.  I have a 6-50 plug on it with 2 hots and a ground, for operation on 240v single phase.  The 3rd hot wire is taped back and not used.Last edited by DesertRider33; 07-16-2009 at 02:13 AM.Reason: edited for clarity and to remove one not so nice comment I had directed at Sundown IIIMM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I realize I am the extreme noob here, (my 20 some odd posts to DR's 2000), but to try to calm the storm here... both DR33 and Sundown are correct, just in differnt ways:Yes, you do need 4 wires for 120/240 operation in normal conditions, and it is typically bad practice to use a hot as a neutral, but for the special case of the Dynasty, they did this to give you all the flexability you have out of a 4 wire cord instead of requiring 5 wires.  The Dynasty (like most welders) when operating on 240 is 240 only, not 120/240, so you do not need a neutral.The machine automatically reconnects the white wire as a "neutral" for 120V operation, and as a "hot" for 240v, single phase, or as one "hot" leg of 208/277 for 3 phase operation.In conclusion, DR33's logic is correct for all other applications, and anywhere you would have 120/240V, but for the special case of the Dynasty, as the manual quoted by Sundown states, the simplified adapters we discussed are perfectly acceptable.If it doesn't fit, you aren't hitting it hard enough!Miller AerowaveMiller Radiator 1A4.5" DeWalt (with the paddle switch!)Jackson NexGen Helmet
Reply:GT Steve,Appreciate the additional amplification/clarification.What this points out is the importance of "reading the instructions" that accompany any particular machine.Welders, on the whole, don't always follow standard conventions.  As an example, I'll discuss the wiring setup on a Miller Syncrowave 250 DX.This machine comes setup for operation on 1 Phase power only.  Different voltages can be selected using jumpers in the machine.  The welder comes standard with a three conductor power cable.  Black, white, and green.  As we understand things, 240v operation does not require the use of a neutral feed.  Where you see the four conductor lead on most appliances (ranges for instance) is when the machine uses both 120v (clock, oven light, etc) and 240v (heating element).  In this case you need two hot leads, a neutral, and a ground.Going back to the Sync, with only two hot leads and a ground connection, it's interesting to note that they also provide a 120v receptacle for running a cooler or other 120v tools.  They somehow manage this without needing a neutral wire to the machine.Just thought this was interesting.  Bottom line.  Read the instructions.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Yes, Thank You GT Steve for explaining that.  I would never have imagined that it would be OK to connect a hot to a nuetral and vice-versa on the Dynasty and not fry the machine. Originally Posted by SundownIIIGoing back to the Sync, with only two hot leads and a ground connection, it's interesting to note that they also provide a 120v receptacle for running a cooler or other 120v tools. They somehow manage this without needing a neutral wire to the machine.
Reply:Desert-Can you post up a manual- as the one on line for the Dialarc HF only has a 3-wire Input Cable and you said it uses a conventional 120v/240v 4-wire Cord???Theses machines usually get the 120v from a Transformer inside the machine.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Hey DR33,Guess that's one of the "little things" that differentiates the Dynasty 200 DX from the TA 185 and why they can charge what they do for the machines.Like you, I never saw the need for using a "real welder" on 120v power.  Had always managed to be able to get 240v to do my work.  Recently had a job come up (repairing handrails on a boat) that needed to be done at the owner's boathouse/slip.  Only power he had going to the boathouse (detached from main house by 150'+) was 30A, 125V.  Sure was nice to simply carry a short adapter, plug in, and tig away at about 60A.  A lot easier than dragging 200' of 8ga and 10ga extension cords.After that experience, I can see the utility in having a 120v capable machine.  For a lot of SS restaurant work it could be a great tool.PS.  If you get a chance to try out a Dynasty 200 with Blue Lightning and the additional waveforms, you should do it.  Thus far, I've been really happy with mine.  Still kept the Sync for bump welding aluminum, but, within the power range, the Dynasty 200 is awesome.  Same old adage though, "can't use amps you didn't buy".Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Desert-Can you post up a manual- as the one on line for the Dialarc HF only has a 3-wire Input Cable and you said it uses a conventional 120v/240v 4-wire Cord???Theses machines usually get the 120v from a Transformer inside the machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIHey DR33,Guess that's one of the "little things" that differentiates the Dynasty 200 DX from the TA 185 and why they can charge what they do for the machines.Like you, I never saw the need for using a "real welder" on 120v power.  Had always managed to be able to get 240v to do my work.  Recently had a job come up (repairing handrails on a boat) that needed to be done at the owner's boathouse/slip.  Only power he had going to the boathouse (detached from main house by 150'+) was 30A, 125V.  Sure was nice to simply carry a short adapter, plug in, and tig away at about 60A.  A lot easier than dragging 200' of 8ga and 10ga extension cords.After that experience, I can see the utility in having a 120v capable machine.  For a lot of SS restaurant work it could be a great tool.PS.  If you get a chance to try out a Dynasty 200 with Blue Lightning and the additional waveforms, you should do it.  Thus far, I've been really happy with mine.  Still kept the Sync for bump welding aluminum, but, within the power range, the Dynasty 200 is awesome.  Same old adage though, "can't use amps you didn't buy".
Reply:DR33,No.  Wasn't trying to put the TA185 down in any way.  In fact, if you go back and check my posts, you'll find that I've recommended that particular unit to many posters.  I think it gives a lot more bang for the buck than the Diversion 165 does.  It's a machine many hobbiest welders will not outgrow and has the adjustability to produce excellent welds.My point/feelings all along have been that the discussion about whether a newbie should buy a Diversion, a TA 185, or a Dynasty 200.  The three machines in discussion are all in a different class.  Like comparing apples, oranges, and grapefruit.  They are priced accordingly.  The Dynasty has the highest cost, but also the most features.  These features cost money.  Only the user can determine if they add value to him.I've been using the Sync 250's for about 25 years (now own my third one--each one better than the one before), but have been using a buddy's Dynasty 300 and several 200's for the last couple years.  Would love to have a Dynasty 350 but still can't justify the cost for what I do.  Consequently I started looking at used Dynasty 300's and the TA 300 as possible replacements for a '96 Sync.  Was very close to buying a used Dynasty 300 from one of the NASCAR teams.  Then along came a deal on a nearly new (8 hrs arc time) Sync 250.  Jumped on it.  Sold my '96 to my buddy who has the Dynasty 300.Had I not upgraded the Sync, I probably would not have bought the Dynasty 200.  As good as it is, it won't do everything I need a tig to do.  With that said, since it's arrived, the Sync has only seen probably 8 hrs of arc time.  The little machine continues to impress me and I'm not one to be easily impressed with welding machines.TA builds a great machine but so does Miller.  I can see why the Dynasty would cost more.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:it is a bad thing to wire a 14 series receptacle with 3 phase  you are putting 240v on a pin intended for a neutral, no matter what you write on it, someone could plug something else in and possibly fry that something or someone. at the least, mark it" DANGER!! neutral hot! special use only", or like that.    15 series is for 3~, I have an L15-20p on mine, a pigtail in the shop with an L15-20c (c is for connector, the term for an in-line receptacle,i.e. socket on a cord). for the road I made up a L15-20c to 6-15p (straight blade 240 plug) adapter, and 11 different 6-15c to various plug adapters. over time, and as the need arose, I've made up these; 5-15p, "regular wall plug",6-30p, common in commercial locations,used for coffee makers, griddles, and ac units, 6-50p "welder plug", L6-20,L6-30, generators and jobsite power distro,(spider boxes),L14-20,L14-30,generators(with neutral not connected), 14-30, with no neutral blade, also fits 14-50, found in heavy commercial and industrial locations, 10-30, and 10-50, range and dryer plugs.  most ends are Leveton ("black and white" pro grade, my favorite), Hubbell, Cooper, or Marinco (made in USA). all wire is 12ga minimum. I've got 100ft of 10ga for long runs,and I can usually be powered up in seconds just about anywhere, or 1/100th of the time it took me to write this post, but I am a super-slow typer!Last edited by heatburglar; 02-08-2012 at 01:44 PM.the L15-20c to 6-15p adapter of corse leaves the red leg open or not connected, when going from 3~ to single phase
Reply:ps on the L15-20c to 6-15p adapter the red leg from the machine is open, not connected, going from 3~ to single phase
Reply:Okay so just bought a dynasty 200dx and I thought Id just revive this thread rather than start a new one. I'm going to use Broccoli method of wiring up the dynasty to a male 6-50p and then make a pigtail for 220 to 110v. My question is, what wire do I use for the pigtail? Can I buy it at home depot? Others have mentioned that I can buy the plugs at a place like home depot, just not sure what wire I ask for.   Another thing. I'm just still a little confused on which of the two hot wires go where from my welding cord to the 6-50p male plug?  I know the green goes to ground, but what color wire goes to where on the other two prongs?   I read the manual, but I'm still confused.  Thanks.
Reply:I'll start by saying I've never encountered a 110 volt circuit, I don't know why the nomenclature is so common. I've also never seen a welder rated at 110 volts. From there, I say I dearly wish they didn't market welders as 120 or 115 volt. Uninformed people presume that an outlet matching their cord will supply the necessary power. perhaps half of the receptacles you can plug into risk you burning something down. A 120 volt welder is severely limited in what it can do. In every case, an arc welder needs a dedicated circuit. A dedicated circuit is a newly installed circuit with one piece of cable running unbroken from the breaker panel to the receptacle. The terminations are clean, shiny, and tight. In a perfect world they are coated with corrosion inhibitor. Safety margins are big when rating ampacity, (a #14 wire will carry 30 amps without overheating badly), this is not true of connections. A poorly made connection will overheat to flame at less than breaker rating. The product I hate most is the "back wired outlet" A $ .33 receptacle sold at home centers. It has terminals you stick a  stripped wire into. These terminals pass UL testing under ideal conditions, installed by experts. Installed by a homeowner, or installer in a mobile home factory, mounted in an outside wall where exposed to differential temperatures, these things are time bombs! I estimate half the mobile home fires are caused by these outlets. People plug welders into these abominations!
Reply:110V is pretty common in Central America. 100V is the norm in parts of Japan.
Reply:I'm not aware that any of the people here obsessed with 110 welders is in central America. From what I've seen of 115 or 120 volt welders, you'd be better off throwing your money off a bridge.
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortOkay so just bought a dynasty 200dx and I thought Id just revive this thread rather than start a new one. I'm going to use Broccoli method of wiring up the dynasty to a male 6-50p and then make a pigtail for 220 to 110v. My question is, what wire do I use for the pigtail? Can I buy it at home depot? Others have mentioned that I can buy the plugs at a place like home depot, just not sure what wire I ask for.   Another thing. I'm just still a little confused on which of the two hot wires go where from my welding cord to the 6-50p male plug?  I know the green goes to ground, but what color wire goes to where on the other two prongs?   I read the manual, but I'm still confused.  Thanks.