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I have always used 6011 for my "dirty" welds. I'm not a pipe welder, so really my only use for this type of rod is a quick dirty repair. I figured since I have a DC welder then maybe I should try a 6010 instead (I have an Everlast Powerarc 200ST). I picked up a box of Radnor (I know, not the best) "red" 6010 rods, 1/8". Dear Mother of God these things dig! I mean not a little bit, but a violent cutting arc. I'm not really knocking the rods because I know that's what they're supposed to do. But in comparing these to the 6011s I'm used to, man they burn hot! Maybe hot is not the right word, they are just forceful. Has anyone else noticed this difference between 6011s and 6010s? I think I actually prefer the 6011. On a bright note, the slag comes off easy, it makes a pretty weld with little effort (standard whip and pause), and they run great vertical down.
Reply:With my PowerArc 200, (not the ST model) I have the best luck with ESAB's 10P-Plus 6010. Or Hobart's 335A 6011.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:No doubt there is quite a difference between 6010 and 6011. I used a lot of 6010(mostly Lincoln 6010++), got pipe certs for 6010 root and 7018 cap at the shipyard and actually just used 6011 for the first time recently. 6011 is very forgiving and by comparison you move slow with it. My suggestion is start with 3/32 to learn to run 6010 and remember you are really whipping it, the reason for that dig is to get a keyhole going and burn out full penetration, if you're not doing an open root you probably don't need it. We weren't allowed to use any 6011 because it wouldn't pass inspection.... |
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