Restoring the Pipeliner

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Well I finally got my 1974 SA-200 to TN this past weekend. It ran and welded when I got it about it 3 years a go, but it has sat since then. The only issue then was the fuel would leak into the oil bath filter causing it to fill up until it choked out the engine, I'd dump the bowl, fire it up and she'd run til it choked out again. As far a welding with it, I'd take the cup off the filter so the gas could run into a small bucket, drag my leads as far as I could away from the machine and ran a couple beads with it, she done just fine, just a test to see if it would actually run a bead, it did so thats the last time it was ran.  I started dismantling her yesterday, plans are to do a complete overhaul on the engine (F-163), air filter upgrade, oil filter upgrade and ignition upgrade. New gauges, face plate, knobs and switches. This will get me started but I'm certain that that will be just the beginning.  As for the panels and frame when I removed them I noticed some small pitting in some areas, just wondering what some of you guys did to fix that. I was thinking spot welds with the mig or brazing then sand them down with a flapper wheel. But I'm no bodyman so all that is just my wheels turning. I know there are gonna be request for pics during this process, but just a heads up, this is gonna be a long process for me. I've got a course (ARMY) coming up in the next month or so followed by a another deployment, this time to A-stan. But whenever I do anything thing I will be taking pics and posting them asap. I want the whole process to be completely documented. With my patience, nerves, money and ya'lls guidance this should be an interesting project.
Reply:Welding to fill those pits in the sheetmetal will work, but the welds will shrink as they cool, so you'll end up with dimples in the sheetmetal.  You'd have to grind these flat and then use a dolly  and hammer (I think) to flatten out those dimples.  If you're not a purist, you could just strip down those panels and bondo the pits before repainting them.  I think this would be simpler and faster, but maybe not acceptable if you're going for a 100% restore...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I vote to fix the carb, change the oil,  and get this one back on the job.If you want to slowly and completely rebuild one, you may as well buy a cheap junker for that.Just an opinion, it's your welder, time, and money, do as you please. It's that I've seen so many major projects stall  (my own especially) when they are started without the time, money, and a short deadline all in place. When time and money are tight, I'd rather see bite-size repairs, with the machine running again after each small step, rather than a total tear-down with a fuzzy "someday" deadline. Again, that's just me. Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 06-12-2010 at 05:06 PM.
Reply:I wish I could put her on a job but Uncle Sam has me for atleast 2 more years and a total of 7 if I want to get my 20 and throw in the towel. But she will be on a quite a few jobs then, hoping to get her on some pipeline projects. I've got a Miller 300D NT that runs pretty dang good, just had to put a fuel pump on it. got 4554 hrs on it and that is the biggest repair to date. But I totally agree with what you said about stalling/fuzzy complete date projects and have been guilty of it myself as well, but this one is a complete resto and time will hopefully ensure attention to detail and reisitance to knee jerk jerry rigging, whuch I'm also guilty of.
Reply:I wish I could put her on a job but Uncle Sam has me for at least 2 more years and a total of 7 if I want to get my 20 and throw in the towel.
Reply:I would do as many years as I could until I hit my RCP if I had to do it over again. I retired at 21.5 years. I've been retired for almost 3 years now. Nothing but hard times since retiring in this recession.http://www.facebook.com/groups/sa200weldersCurrent machines:Hobart G600 Powered by 1967 Chrysler LH-318 (Project)Hobart GF-250(Traded)68 Redface81 Blackface
Reply:They want get me with RCP, I'll be indef in the next month or two. It's just nice knowing I have the option to bail next DEC. but yeah 20 is my magic number, I'll be 43. I wish someone had of deliver that giblet kick back in Mar 2001 when I threw the towel and left the CORPS after 8 years. Hindsight is 20/20, that mistake want be made again.  One thing is for sure, retirement is nice but it ain't the gravy train alot of folks thinks it is. I've got some good bud's that are squeezing them pennies for every drop. After 20+ years for some they are hitting it as hard as ever trying to get by. Alot of factors can make it or break it for you with a military retirement. Plan and prepare now and see what happens is what I'm doing, Lets hope this old Pipeliner can make me some cash when I'm done.
Reply:Originally Posted by pullemfarI was thinking spot welds with the mig or brazing then sand them down with a flapper wheel. But I'm no bodyman so all that is just my wheels turning.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPIf you really what to save this old girl. I'd fill all the holes with Mig welding. Use a hole saw to cut plugs for the larger holes, and weld them in. Sand smooth, sand blast frame, use a rust preventer, bondo the imperfections, use an automotive primer called DP-40, then Dupont's 6334 paint. Or you can save a little money by using a Nason brand, same number as Dupont's.
Reply:One thing is for sure, retirement is nice but it ain't the gravy train alot of folks thinks it is. I've got some good bud's that are squeezing them pennies for every drop. After 20+ years for some they are hitting it as hard as ever trying to get by. A lot of factors can make it or break it for you with a military retirement. Plan and prepare now and see what happens is what I'm doing, Lets hope this old Pipeliner can make me some cash when I'm done.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmallIt's quite nice if you exterminate your debt ruthlessly, which should be general policy for anyone. That includes retiring where it's cheap enough to live on retirement funds only.  Done for the most part except for the house and new 4-Runner (wifes). Clarksville TN has a rather low cost of living and is just a short drive from hereAll those lectures you give to junior troops about not buying what they don't need apply to all ranks. "Half" of BASE pay is not "half" of "base plus allowances", but more like a third. (a good reason to stay longer for the longevity bumps, gotta work somewhere and civilian "organization" is often a cluster compared to the military). You been listening to my new dick briefs? Totally agree with the civilian sector work, a few good org's but having dealt with it first hand after the CORPS, it can be quite interesting.One thing well worth doing (it's one of those universal "can't lose" items on the checklist) is to get all your tools and equipment paid for, and for what they do Pipeliners are a bargain.  Collecting tools is an income-multiplier worth tens of thousands of dollars in being able to build and repair everything you own, and has made my retirement much more comfortable. Just working on one's own stuff pays for good gear.  Been doing this for quite sometime.Fun fact for all currently serving:Your G.I. Bill will pay for one certification course, welding, CDL, etc. as well as four years of school plus E-5 BAH stipend after you retire.  You can also use active duty Tuition Assistance on Terminal Leave if the course ends before ETS.
Reply:Man I jacked that all up. My comments are there they just ended up in the quote, soory bout that Farmall.
Reply:Though its a ways off, I'm trying to picture a color(s) and color scheme for her. Maybe the frame one color and the panels another or factory lincoln colors or what. There's alot of lincoln gray ones around, I don't wanna be extreme but I think something different is in order.