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I thought I had my sputtering arc fixed (sp-135 plus MIG). The wing nut on the positive lead was not tight and had been arcing on the underside of the nut for some time. I cleaned up the nut and mount and it solved the problem for a couple of days, then it returned. I rechecked all the rest of the connections on the, easy to get to, part of the machine (including all grounding connections) and it still did not solve the problem. I put in a new liner, tip and nozzle. Wire seems to feed smoothly. I suspect that either the continuous arc sputtering has corroded or damaged something somewhere else on the machine. I need to get into the goodies in the guts part of the case. I see several possibilities of how to get in, but would just as soon take the most direct approach. How do I get the inside of the case open? The part where the wire drive motor and conrollers are located. It looks like some hex sheet metal screws on the top and far side might be the way in, but want to make sure as there appear to be some screw mounted parts on the case wall. Thanks! ChipLast edited by afodell; 06-13-2010 at 06:14 PM.
Reply:I can't suggest anything as to opening the case, but I had a weld pak 100 that had a similar sputtering arc problem turned out to be very badly eaten/corroded/arced aluminum at the rectifier diodes. Just thought that might help you out to check there first
Reply:On some machines there is a PC Board mounted to the side of the case. There are wires running into the inside of the machine so just be careful not to (drop) or pull the wires too hard. Its pretty sturdy and gives a little bit of room to maneuver but I thought I'd just give ya a heads up.
Reply:I checked with a local repair shop and they were most helpful. Told me how to get into the case and suggested that I check the inside connection of the positive lead. I did so and it looked clean. They also said that to replace/repair diodes is close to $400, so am considering a new machine now. The machine was only around $500 new. If I can find just a machine that takes the same gun etc. I might be able to save something on it. The 135 is no longer made (now a 140.) I think I will go with 220V this time per advice from the repair facility. This machine has only had about 3-4, 11 lb spools of wire through it, but is a low end Lincoln machine so I guess you get what you pay for. It has been carted around some, so maybe my fault too. I didn't realize they were so fragile. I have an idealarc 250 probably a '60s model and it is a "tank." Thanks for your comments.
Reply:Hold off on that... Couple more checks:1) correct polarity - gun connected to positive stud for MIG - gun connected to negative stud for flux cored.2) Make sure the gun is plugged ALL THE WAY into the machine. Sometimes it hangs out a little bit and it will not get the proper amount of gas to the end of the nozzle. 3) If it was the diodes then when you pull it trigger it would make a nasty grunting sound that you should be able to hear.4) Check with someone else on the diodes... $400 sounds kinda ridiculous. I recommend Stumpf - www.stumpfweldingsupplies.com or 618-566-4733SP 135's are very good machines and don't have a lot of expensive problems usually. Don't give up on it yet!!
Reply:Try running a little flux core (switch polarities). That's easy to do and if it welds OK then you know it's to do with the gas and not the welding circuits.Just a (cheap) thought.Rufus |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:15:56